Quacking Up! Bib

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ¾ " from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Gold.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.

Cast on 15 sts.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts.; knit across row (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (36 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (39 sts.)
Row 10: knit.
Row 11: knit
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: k6; (p3, k5) three times; p3; k6.
Row 14: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 15: k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1, p1, k5) 3 times; p1; k4.
Row 16: k4; (p7, k1) 3 times; p7; k4.
Row 17: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 18: k3; p2; (k1, p3) 7 times; k1; p2; k3.
Row 19: k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1, p1, k5) 3 times; p1; k4.
Row 20: k4; p7; k2; p6; k1; p7; k1; p1; k1; p5; k4.
Row 21: k6; p1; k2; p1; k16; p1; k5; p1; k6.
Row 22: k3; p2; k1; p6; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; p2; k3.
Row 23: k4; p1; k3; p1; k17; p1; k7; p1; k4.
Row 24: k4; p9; k1; p16; k1; p4; k4.
Row 25: k6; p1; k1; p1; k16; (p1, k6) 2 times.
Row 26: k3; p2; k1; p8; k1; p15; (k1, p2) 2 times; k3.
Row 27: k4; p1; k3; p1; k15; p1; k9; p1; k4.
Row 28: k4; p11; k1; p5; k4; p5; k1; p4; k4.
Row 29: k6; p1; k1; (p1, k4) 3 times; p1; k8; p1; k6.
Row 30: k3; p2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p3; (k1, p2) 2 times; k3.
Row 31: (k4, p1) 2 times; k2; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k10; p1; k4.
Row 32: k4; p11; k3; p1; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; p5; k4.
Row 33: k6; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k6; p2; k2; p1; k8; p1; k6.
Row 34: k3; p2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p2; k3.
Row 35: k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k10; p1; k4.
Row 36: k4; p5; k3; (p3, k1) 2 times; p6; k2; p7; k4.
Row 37: k6; p1; k4; p2; k6; p1, k3; (p1, k2) 3 times; p1; k6.
Row 38: k3; p2; (k1, p3) 2 times; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p6; k1; p2; k3.
Row 39: k4; p1; k12; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4.
Row 40: k4; p7; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p13; k4.
Row 41: k6; p1; k9; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k6.
Row 42: k3; p2; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p10; k1; p2; k3.
Row 43: k4; p1; k11; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; k4.
Row 44: k4; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p12; k4.
Row 45: k6; p1; k9; p1; k4; p1; k3; (p1, k6) 2 times.
Row 46: k3; p2; k1; p7; k1; p8; k1; p10; k1; p2; k3.
Row 47: k4; p1; k11; (p1, k8) 2 times; p1; k4.
Row 48: k4; p9; k1; p8; k1; p12; k4.
Row 49: k6; p1; k9; (p1, k7) 2 times; p1; k6.
Row 50: k3; p2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p2; k3.
Row 51: k4; p1; k13; p1; k4; p1; k10; p1; k4.
Row 52: k4; p12; k4; p15; k4.
Row 53: k6; p1; k25; p1; k6.
Row 54: k3; p2; k1; p27; k1; p2; k3.
Row 55: k4; p1; k29; p1; k4.
Row 56: k4; p31; k4.
Row 57: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 58: k3; p2; (k1; p3) 7 times; k1; p2; k3.
Row 59: k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1, p1, k5) 3 times; p1; k4.
Row 60: k4; (p7, k1) 3 times; p7; k4.
Row 61: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 62: k3; p2; k5; (p3, k5) 3 times; p2; k3.
Row 63: k4; p1; (k5, p1, k1, p1) 3 times; k5; p1; k4.
Row 64 – 68: knit.

Shoulder Shaping:
Row 69: k14, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.

You should have 14 sts. on each side. Place first 14 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 14 sts. as follows:

Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.

All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 3 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)

Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)

Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.

(Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)
Weave in ends.