Sunday, May 3, 2009
Oops! Puddles Errata
I just discovered that there was a mistake in Row 34, so if you downloaded this pattern earlier today, you'll need to either download it again, or make a note of my error. I've corrected both the posted version and the pdf. I'm presently re-knitting it (again) and will post any further corrections. Hopefully, there won't be any! I need a test knitter with better eyes than mine!
This One's For the Girls.
Finally, here's one of the bibs I did with little girls in mind. Not to say that it wouldn't look cute on a boy as well. I had this one all set to go, but after knitting it up and looking at it for awhile, I decided that it needed some changes. Originally, I had a bow around the duck's neck, but it was pretty difficult to determine exactly what it was. Sometimes, a design will look so cute charted up, but then once it's knitted, it looks like crap! I decided to stick with simple and I'm happy with the results. I don't have the directions done yet for a dishcloth, but I'll work on it. Now, as for those who knit for boys, don't despair because I have a different version done that would look super for a guy. At least I think it will.... I haven't knitted it up yet!
The pdf is listed with the other bib patterns and here's the line by line for all of you who have a problem with the pdfs. (I still don't understand why, but it's just easier to post than to try and figure it out!)
Here then, is "Puddles":
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in yellow.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.
Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (38 sts.)
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k13; p12; k13.
Row 15: k25; p1; k12.
Row 16: k11; p1; k1; p14; k11.
Row 17: k25; p1; k12.
Row 18: k9; p3; k1; p16; k9.
Row 19: k25; p1; k12.
Row 20: k7; p6; k1; p17; k7.
Row 21: k6; p1; k17; p1; k13.
Row 22: k5; p9; k1; p16; k1; p1; k5.
Row 23: k6; p1; k16; p1; k14.
Row 24: k5; p10; k1; p15; k1; p1; k5.
Row 25: k6; p1; k5; p4; k6; p1; k15.
Row 26: k5; p11; (k1, p4) 3 times; k1; p1; k5.
Row 27: k6; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 28: k5; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; (k1, p2) 2 times; k5.
Row 29: k7; p1; k2; p1; k6; p1; k1; p3; k16.
Row 30: k5; p11; k1; p2; k2; p6; k1; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 31: k8; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 32: k5; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 33: k9; p2; k6; (p1, k3) 2 times; p3; k10.
Row 34: k5; p5; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p3; k1; p6; k2; p4; k5.
Row 35: k10; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k10.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p10; k5.
Row 37: k15; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k12.
Row 38: k5; p7; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p9; k5.
Row 39: k14; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k13.
Row 40: k5; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 41: k14; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k13.
Row 42: k5; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k5.
Row 43: k14; p1; k8; p1; k14.
Row 44: k5; p9; k1; p8; k1; p9; k5.
Row 45: k14; p1; k8; p1; k14.
Row 46: k5; p10; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 47: k15; p1; k6; p1; k15.
Row 48: k5; p2; k2; p7; k1; p4; k1; p11; k5.
Row 49: k17; p4; k7; p1; k1; p1; k7.
Row 50: k5; (p2, k1) 2 times; p22; k5.
Row 51: k24; p4; k2; p1; k7.
Row 52: k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p3; k1; p18; k5.
Row 53: k23; (p1; k3) 2 times; p1; k6.
Row 54: k5; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p18; k5.
Row 55: k24; p1; k1; p1; k2; p3; k6.
Row 56: k5; p6; k1; p1; k1; p19; k5.
Row 57: k24; p2; k12.
Row 58: k5; p28; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p7; k12; p7; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: k7; p5; k14; p5; k7.
Rows 63 – 68: knit
Shoulder Shaping:
Row 69: k13, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.
You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:
Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.
All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)
Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.
(Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)
Weave in ends.
The pdf is listed with the other bib patterns and here's the line by line for all of you who have a problem with the pdfs. (I still don't understand why, but it's just easier to post than to try and figure it out!)
Here then, is "Puddles":
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in yellow.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.
Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (38 sts.)
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k13; p12; k13.
Row 15: k25; p1; k12.
Row 16: k11; p1; k1; p14; k11.
Row 17: k25; p1; k12.
Row 18: k9; p3; k1; p16; k9.
Row 19: k25; p1; k12.
Row 20: k7; p6; k1; p17; k7.
Row 21: k6; p1; k17; p1; k13.
Row 22: k5; p9; k1; p16; k1; p1; k5.
Row 23: k6; p1; k16; p1; k14.
Row 24: k5; p10; k1; p15; k1; p1; k5.
Row 25: k6; p1; k5; p4; k6; p1; k15.
Row 26: k5; p11; (k1, p4) 3 times; k1; p1; k5.
Row 27: k6; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 28: k5; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; (k1, p2) 2 times; k5.
Row 29: k7; p1; k2; p1; k6; p1; k1; p3; k16.
Row 30: k5; p11; k1; p2; k2; p6; k1; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 31: k8; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 32: k5; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 33: k9; p2; k6; (p1, k3) 2 times; p3; k10.
Row 34: k5; p5; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p3; k1; p6; k2; p4; k5.
Row 35: k10; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k10.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p10; k5.
Row 37: k15; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k12.
Row 38: k5; p7; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p9; k5.
Row 39: k14; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k13.
Row 40: k5; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 41: k14; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k13.
Row 42: k5; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k5.
Row 43: k14; p1; k8; p1; k14.
Row 44: k5; p9; k1; p8; k1; p9; k5.
Row 45: k14; p1; k8; p1; k14.
Row 46: k5; p10; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 47: k15; p1; k6; p1; k15.
Row 48: k5; p2; k2; p7; k1; p4; k1; p11; k5.
Row 49: k17; p4; k7; p1; k1; p1; k7.
Row 50: k5; (p2, k1) 2 times; p22; k5.
Row 51: k24; p4; k2; p1; k7.
Row 52: k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p3; k1; p18; k5.
Row 53: k23; (p1; k3) 2 times; p1; k6.
Row 54: k5; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p18; k5.
Row 55: k24; p1; k1; p1; k2; p3; k6.
Row 56: k5; p6; k1; p1; k1; p19; k5.
Row 57: k24; p2; k12.
Row 58: k5; p28; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p7; k12; p7; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: k7; p5; k14; p5; k7.
Rows 63 – 68: knit
Shoulder Shaping:
Row 69: k13, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.
You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:
Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.
All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)
Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.
(Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)
Weave in ends.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Oh my aching hands!
Working with cotton is tough on the hands! It's especially tough when you knit every day (or almost every day) for a week or more! I've been busy working on some new bib designs. I have to decide which ones to contribute to the Dishcloth Calendar. I have a pretty good idea which ones I'm going to use. Of course, once I pick the two designs, that leaves me with the rest which will eventually end up here on my blog. On the bottom of the stack are a couple that I did specifically with little girls in mind. Those will be the first ones that I post, I promise!
In the meantime, I've got to start working on matching washcloths. Ugh!
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Sideways Britches
Woo hoo! I got to test knit yet another pattern for Melanie of
Adorabubble Knits and The Knitting Siren . This is her Sideways Britches pattern which is very unique. It was a little tricky at first until I figured out which direction I was headed. You start at the center back and work your way around the hips and front until you're back to the beginning. There are alot of provisional cast on stitches, but the nice thing is that there is no seaming. Did you catch that? No seaming!!
I used Lamb's Pride worsted in the Blue Skyways color. I've never worked with this yarn before, but it reminds me of Peace Fleece. It's pretty soft, but it feels like it will work well for a soaker. I still have to lanolize them, so it will be interesting to see what happens after they're washed.
Of course, the real test will be the fit. It just might be a real good excuse to go visit the grandsons!
Adorabubble Knits and The Knitting Siren . This is her Sideways Britches pattern which is very unique. It was a little tricky at first until I figured out which direction I was headed. You start at the center back and work your way around the hips and front until you're back to the beginning. There are alot of provisional cast on stitches, but the nice thing is that there is no seaming. Did you catch that? No seaming!!
I used Lamb's Pride worsted in the Blue Skyways color. I've never worked with this yarn before, but it reminds me of Peace Fleece. It's pretty soft, but it feels like it will work well for a soaker. I still have to lanolize them, so it will be interesting to see what happens after they're washed.
Of course, the real test will be the fit. It just might be a real good excuse to go visit the grandsons!
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Catching Up
First off, it was pointed out to me that there is a typo in the new bib, "This Bear's Repeating". Rows 10 and 11 said to "Cast on 3 stitches..", but actually, it should have said "Cast on 2 stitches". The stitch count at the end of the row is correct and I'm sure most of you could figure it out, especially if you've knitted any of my other bibs, since they all follow the same basic format most of the time. (not always!) In any event, I've posted the corrected pdf version. It only affects the bib and not the washcloth.
Speaking of bibs, I've been asked to take part again in the Dishcloth Calendar for next year. At first, I didn't think I would do it again, but I changed my mind and have been working on some new designs. I can't post any pictures since they're all top secret, but I have to say that one of them is my most favorite design yet!! How's that for a tease?
I've had some really nice emails lately from knitters who took the time to let me know how much they like my designs and to thank me. My head is getting pretty swelled up and I can't tell you how much it means to me! Just for fun, I checked out my design page on Ravelry to see who (if anyone) was knitting the designs. I was floored by how many have been knitted and most of the comments have been very nice. I did, however, get an email from a knitter who wants me to make some designs for girls! The reason that I don't do any is because I only have grandsons! Every time I knit a bib, I know exactly who is going to wear it! I just can't see Marty wearing a pink bib. He's the reason I started designing in the first place. I didn't do it for the money (obviously). I just did it for fun and to try and use up some of my cotton stash. I never dreamed it would turn into this not-for-profit business!! Still, I will give it some consideration, but understand that I don't have any source for inspiration! What do girls like anyway?
On the knitting front, I've just been working on my calendar designs, but I did mange to knit another pair of the Nemo socks for grandson #2, so he and his brother don't have to share them. I didn't post a picture, because they look exactly alike. I did make a different pair for Jack. The yarn is Regia and I think it's called "Indian Ocean" from the Jupiter series. The yarn was supposed to make rings and look very "spacey". Unfortunately, since I made such a small pair, the color didn't work out that way. Still I think they look okay for a boy.
I really liked the look of the ribbing on the leg. My friend, Kathy, is always knitting her "plain vanilla" socks and I just love them. I decided to do a miniature version and I'm happy with the results. I even took a break from knitting for the grandkids and made a pair of socks for myself! I can't believe I did it, but they came out pretty nice. I'm thinking that I might even do it again! I just used a basic pattern and kept it simple since the yarn was so pretty. It's Regia again and this was Square Color in Candy.
Speaking of bibs, I've been asked to take part again in the Dishcloth Calendar for next year. At first, I didn't think I would do it again, but I changed my mind and have been working on some new designs. I can't post any pictures since they're all top secret, but I have to say that one of them is my most favorite design yet!! How's that for a tease?
I've had some really nice emails lately from knitters who took the time to let me know how much they like my designs and to thank me. My head is getting pretty swelled up and I can't tell you how much it means to me! Just for fun, I checked out my design page on Ravelry to see who (if anyone) was knitting the designs. I was floored by how many have been knitted and most of the comments have been very nice. I did, however, get an email from a knitter who wants me to make some designs for girls! The reason that I don't do any is because I only have grandsons! Every time I knit a bib, I know exactly who is going to wear it! I just can't see Marty wearing a pink bib. He's the reason I started designing in the first place. I didn't do it for the money (obviously). I just did it for fun and to try and use up some of my cotton stash. I never dreamed it would turn into this not-for-profit business!! Still, I will give it some consideration, but understand that I don't have any source for inspiration! What do girls like anyway?
On the knitting front, I've just been working on my calendar designs, but I did mange to knit another pair of the Nemo socks for grandson #2, so he and his brother don't have to share them. I didn't post a picture, because they look exactly alike. I did make a different pair for Jack. The yarn is Regia and I think it's called "Indian Ocean" from the Jupiter series. The yarn was supposed to make rings and look very "spacey". Unfortunately, since I made such a small pair, the color didn't work out that way. Still I think they look okay for a boy.
I really liked the look of the ribbing on the leg. My friend, Kathy, is always knitting her "plain vanilla" socks and I just love them. I decided to do a miniature version and I'm happy with the results. I even took a break from knitting for the grandkids and made a pair of socks for myself! I can't believe I did it, but they came out pretty nice. I'm thinking that I might even do it again! I just used a basic pattern and kept it simple since the yarn was so pretty. It's Regia again and this was Square Color in Candy.
It's really hard to take a picture of your own feet!
Friday, March 6, 2009
This Bear's Repeating...
Here's a new bib and washcloth pattern as promised. I think they would look nice knit up in a baby green or a baby pink as well. I tried to keep the design gender neutral, if you will. As always, the pdf is in the sidebar, but I'm also posting the line by line directions, just in case! I also included a few tips to address some questions I've received. I hope they help and that you have fun with them.
This Bear's Repeating...Bib
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Lt. Blue.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.
Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p11; k13.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k11; p6; k3; p6; k11.
Row 15: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 16: k9; p6; k1; p5; k1; p6; k9.
Row 17: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 18: k7; p8; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p8; k7.
Row 19: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 20: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 21: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 22: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 23: knit.
Row 24: k5; p27; k5.
Row 25: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 26: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 27: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 28: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 29: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 30: k5; p3; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k5.
Row 31: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 32: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 33: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 34: k5; p27; k5.
Row 35: knit.
Row 36: k5; p12; k3; p12; k5.
Row 37: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 38: k5; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k5.
Row 39: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 40: k5; p10; k1; p2; k1; p2; k1; p10; k5.
Row 41: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 42: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 43: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 44: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 45: knit.
Row 46: k5; p27; p5.
Row 47: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 48: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 49: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 50: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 51: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 52: k5; p3; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k5.
Row 53: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 54: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 55: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 56: k5; p27; k5.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k6; p7; k11; p7; k6.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k8; p3; k15; p3; k8.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: knit
Row 63: knit
Row 64: knit
Shoulder Shaping:
Row 65: k13, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.
You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:
Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.
All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)
Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straightened them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.
Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Weave in ends.
This Bear's Repeating...Cloth
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" X 8"
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Lt. Grape.
Needles: U.S. Size 6 (4 mm)
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
Pattern: Cast on 37 sts.
Rows 1-7: knit.
Row 8: k5; p27; k5.
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: k5; p12; k3; p12; k5.
Row 11: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 12: k5; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k5.
Row 13: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 14: k5; p10; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p10; k5.
Row 15: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 16: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 17: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 18: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 19: knit.
Row 20: k5; p27; p5.
Row 21: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 22: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 23: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 24: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 25: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 26: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p3; k1; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 27: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 28: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 29: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 30: k5; p27; k5.
Row 31: knit.
Row 32: k5; p12; k3; p12; k5.
Row 33: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 34: k5; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k5.
Row 35: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 36: k5; p10; k1; p2; k1; p2; k1; p10; k5.
Row 37: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 38: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 39: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 40: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 41: knit.
Row 42: k5; p27; k5.
Row 43: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 44: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 45: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 46: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 47: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 48: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 49: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 50: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 51: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 52: k5; p27; k5.
Row 53 -60: knit.
Bind off and weave in ends.
This Bear's Repeating...Bib
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Lt. Blue.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.
Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p11; k13.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k11; p6; k3; p6; k11.
Row 15: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 16: k9; p6; k1; p5; k1; p6; k9.
Row 17: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 18: k7; p8; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p8; k7.
Row 19: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 20: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 21: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 22: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 23: knit.
Row 24: k5; p27; k5.
Row 25: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 26: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 27: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 28: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 29: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 30: k5; p3; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k5.
Row 31: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 32: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 33: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 34: k5; p27; k5.
Row 35: knit.
Row 36: k5; p12; k3; p12; k5.
Row 37: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 38: k5; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k5.
Row 39: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 40: k5; p10; k1; p2; k1; p2; k1; p10; k5.
Row 41: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 42: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 43: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 44: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 45: knit.
Row 46: k5; p27; p5.
Row 47: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 48: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 49: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 50: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 51: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 52: k5; p3; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k5.
Row 53: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 54: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 55: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 56: k5; p27; k5.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k6; p7; k11; p7; k6.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k8; p3; k15; p3; k8.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: knit
Row 63: knit
Row 64: knit
Shoulder Shaping:
Row 65: k13, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.
You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:
Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.
All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)
Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straightened them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.
Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Weave in ends.
This Bear's Repeating...Cloth
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" X 8"
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Lt. Grape.
Needles: U.S. Size 6 (4 mm)
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
Pattern: Cast on 37 sts.
Rows 1-7: knit.
Row 8: k5; p27; k5.
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: k5; p12; k3; p12; k5.
Row 11: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 12: k5; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k5.
Row 13: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 14: k5; p10; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p10; k5.
Row 15: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 16: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 17: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 18: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 19: knit.
Row 20: k5; p27; p5.
Row 21: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 22: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 23: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 24: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 25: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 26: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p3; k1; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 27: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 28: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 29: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 30: k5; p27; k5.
Row 31: knit.
Row 32: k5; p12; k3; p12; k5.
Row 33: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 34: k5; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k5.
Row 35: k15; p1; k5; p1; k15.
Row 36: k5; p10; k1; p2; k1; p2; k1; p10; k5.
Row 37: k16; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 38: k5; p9; k3; p3; k3; p9; k5.
Row 39: k14; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k14.
Row 40: k5; p9; k2; p5; k2; p9; k5.
Row 41: knit.
Row 42: k5; p27; k5.
Row 43: k9; p3; k13; p3; k9.
Row 44: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 45: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 46: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k5.
Row 47: k7; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k9; (p1, k2) 2 times; p1; k7.
Row 48: k5; (p3, k1) 2 times; p11; (k1, p3) 2 times; k5.
Row 49: k6; p3; k3; p3; k7; p3; k3; p3; k6.
Row 50: k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p7; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5.
Row 51: k6; p2; k5; p2; k7; p2; k5; p2; k6.
Row 52: k5; p27; k5.
Row 53 -60: knit.
Bind off and weave in ends.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Green Jeans
I've been wanting to make a pair of cabled pants for some time now, but I just haven't found a pattern that I really liked, so I decided to do my own. I just love the way these came out. I did a double knit in the crotch to make it thicker and it just blends so nicely with the cables, if I do say so!
The yarn is Araucania Nature Wool which softens up very nicely after it's washed. I'm not sure why this yarn is more absorbent than the Cascade 220, since they're both 100% wool and the same weight, but I'm pretty pleased with the Araucania.
I just love the color, it's such a nice kelly or Irish green. This is my favorite color anyway, so maybe I'm totally biased, but it makes me think of Spring and the nice weather to come. These will be great for St. Patrick's Day too, since that's a big holiday in this family!
I tried to do a bib to go along with the Irish theme, but it was pathetic so I ditched it. I do have a new one, unrelated to anything, that I hope to post in another day or two. My husband is having heart surgery though, so it may be a little longer. Please keep him in your thoughts!
The yarn is Araucania Nature Wool which softens up very nicely after it's washed. I'm not sure why this yarn is more absorbent than the Cascade 220, since they're both 100% wool and the same weight, but I'm pretty pleased with the Araucania.
I just love the color, it's such a nice kelly or Irish green. This is my favorite color anyway, so maybe I'm totally biased, but it makes me think of Spring and the nice weather to come. These will be great for St. Patrick's Day too, since that's a big holiday in this family!
I tried to do a bib to go along with the Irish theme, but it was pathetic so I ditched it. I do have a new one, unrelated to anything, that I hope to post in another day or two. My husband is having heart surgery though, so it may be a little longer. Please keep him in your thoughts!
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