Down Under

Through the magic of the internet and Ravelry, I met a lovely person who I now consider to be my friend.  "Tunie" is an expatriate who now lives in Australia.  She has a very funny story about how she got her name which you can read by visiting her page on Ravelry where she goes by peacockmom.  You might remember the crocodile cloth  I named after her husband, Fred.  In any event, Tunie asked me if I would consider doing a kangaroo.  My first thought was that she had to be kidding.  There were plenty of cloths already with kangaroos.  I just kind of dismissed it at first, but then I was all caught up at work and thoroughly bored so I decided to play around with it.  The next thing you know, here's a baby kangaroo!  I kind of like him, which surprises me.  I don't know why, but I just didn't think I would ever have a kangaroo in my "gallery".

I'm not so sure that I like this color combination.  The bib was done in Peaches & Creme Pastel Pink and the cloth is in Dark Grape.  Separately, they're cute, but together?  I'm not so sure.

Before you ask, I do have a koala as well, but I did it a few years ago and never posted it.  As soon as I find the chart, I promise that I'll add that as well.

Baby Joey Bib



Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

The pdf file contains a chart and is available in the sidebar or by clicking  here.

Size:  approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream (approximately 98 yards) if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Pastel Pink.

Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm  You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties

                or

Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES

This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

psso:  pass slipped stitch over

k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together

p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together

sts. = stitches

dec. = decrease

dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches

Row 1:  k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)

Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 20 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 35 sts.

Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.

Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)

Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)

Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (24 sts.)

Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (27 sts.)

Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (30 sts.)

Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (33 sts.)

Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (35 sts.)

Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (37 sts.)

Row 10:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.

*Row 12:  (wrong side) (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p15; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k14; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k2; p3; k1; p12; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k12; (p1, k2) x2; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; (k1, p3) x2; k5; p10; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k8) x2; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p9; k1; p7; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k5; p1; k10; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k5; (p5, k1) x2; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k9; p2; k10; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p9; k1) x2; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k9; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; (k1, p8) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p10; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 27:  (k1, p1 ) x2; k10; p1; k6; p1; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k4; p1; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k5; p1; k1; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k3; p4; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k3; p1; k7; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; (k1, p11) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k11; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k2; (p10, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k9; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p8; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k6; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k13; p1; k5; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p4; k1; p12; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k14; p4; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p1; k1; p2; k2; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k4; p1; k2; p2; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 49:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 50:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 51:  (k1, p1) x3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 52:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k3; p1; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 53:  (k1, p1) x4; k6; p2; k6; p5; k2; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 54:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 55:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.

Rows 56 - 62:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 63:   k1, p1 for 13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)

Row 66:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)

Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 71:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 73:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 75:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 77:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 79:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog.  (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the

I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER

With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

 Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (12 sts.)

Row 66:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 67:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)

Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  p1, k1 across row.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog.  (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

Baby Joey Cloth

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

The pdf file contains a chart and is available in the sidebar or by clicking here.

Size:  approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color.  Approximately 98 yards. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Dark Grape.

Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

sts. = stitches

Pattern:

Cast on 37 stitches

Rows 1 – 7:  (k1, p1) across row.

Row 8:  (wrong side) (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p15; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 9:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k14; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 10:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k2; p3; k1; p12; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 11:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k12; (p1, k2) x2; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; (k1, p3) x2; k5; p10; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k8) x2; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p9; k1; p7; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k5; p1; k10; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k5; (p5, k1) x2; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k9; p2; k10; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p9; k1) x2; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k9; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; (k1, p8) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p10; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 23:  (k1, p1 ) x2; k10; p1; k6; p1; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p10; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k4; p1; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k5; p1; k1; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k3; p4; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k3; p1; k7; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; (k1, p11) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k11; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k2; (p10, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k9; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p8; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; p1; k6; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k13; p1; k5; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p4; k1; p12; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k14; p4; k11; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p1; k1; p2; k2; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k4; p1; k2; p2; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 47:  (k1, p1) x3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 48:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k3; p1; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 49:  (k1, p1) x4; k6; p2; k6; p5; k2; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 50:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 51:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.

Rows 52 - 58: (k1, p1) across row.

Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Catching Up

I've been ever so slightly consumed with baby knitting and so I forgot I had two pair of socks already started.  I always like to have a pair in progress to take with me for appointments or for car trips, but these were both languishing a little too long.  Part of the problem might have been that the boys don't wear socks very often in the summer, so they weren't asking for any.  In any event, I decided to just finish them up and move on.  Mickey was visiting last week and was good enough to model for me.

The first pair are called "Fair Winds" another great sock pattern from Sara Franklin.  This is the second pair I've knitted from her book called "Sea Dreams".

Sarah's patterns are very well written and I just enjoying knitting them.  They're not particularly difficult and there's enough going on to keep you interested.  (Never mind that I just said these were just lying around!)



I like the way the cables run up the sides.  I think I might have liked them even better if I had paid closer attention to the pattern.  Apparently, I reversed the direction they were supposed to be twisting and so I ended up doing the complete opposite.

I didn't realize it until I picked up the second sock and started paying attention!  Since I wasn't about to rip out a sock and a half, I just kept them going in the same direction.  I still think they look really cool.  I knit a round toe also.  Sarah has another new sock pattern called "Gentle Breezes" that I have my eye on.  I suppose it's only a matter of time before I break down and add that one to my "collection" as well.

The second pair of socks were from an old sock calendar that I bought ages ago.  I noticed that the pattern is still available in a pdf format on Ravelry, although the price is significantly higher than I paid for the original book. 



The pattern is called "Everybody Wants Sox" and you can check it out here. This is an easy pattern to memorize and I like the way they came out.  I did modify it a bit by making the twisted blocks slightly smaller to fit the number of stitches I was working with.

I used Cascade Heritage 150 for both pairs.  WEBS had a wonderful sale on it this past Spring and I couldn't resist.  The yarn is slightly thicker than the regular Heritage so they should make nice warm socks.

I was hoping that maybe I could now go back to other knitting, but when Marty spotted Mickey modeling these, he wanted to know if I would make him a green pair.  Actually, I think his exact words were:  "You are going to knit me a pair of green ones, right Grandma?" 

Of course I am.