Panting

I've been on a knitting marathon, which I guess is appropriate since it's Patriot's Day here in Massachusetts, which means no work (yay!), but also the Boston Marathon. All my little grandsons (and their parents) are going on vacation to California next month and so the little one needed some new shorts. Well, maybe he didn't "need" them, but it's a good excuse to knit some up! I've had some special yarn that I've been saving and I realized that if I didn't get going, he'd be out of soakers before I had the chance to use it. The yarn is from Three Irish Girls . It's Lindon Merino and the colorway is "Eire". Very pretty. I was so looking forward to actually knitting this yarn. I've heard such great things about it and the color is just beautiful. If only it could have lived up to my expectations. The first skein was just full of knots! One or two might be okay, but there were six! The yarn isn't cheap and I guess I just expected it to be perfect. I used my favorite pattern from The Knitting Siren called "Sideways Britches".

It's not exactly a pattern for beginners, there are lots of provisional cast-ons, but it is well written. I actually got to test knit it last year. I think it is so neat and it does look pretty cute on a two year old's bum! After I finished this one, I decided to use a more traditional pattern. This yarn is also from the same company, but the colorway, "Brennan" , is more tonal. It looks just like suede. You have to touch it to see that it is wool. I found that it wasn't as smooth on the needles as most wool that I use. It kind of reminded me of knitting with cotton as it seemed that I spent most of the time, pushing it along even with my addi turbos. Needless to say, I'm not a fan of this yarn, which puts me squarely in the minority.

In any event, I decided that if two pairs were good, then three would be even better. This time, though, I went back to an old favorite, Lamb's Pride Worsted. My daughter-in-law tells me that it's pretty leak proof so I decided to stick with the tried and true. This yarn just slips right along and was so much more pleasurable to knit with. The colorway is "Cranberry Swirl" and it's a beautiful deep red.

These pictures really don't show the true color. Why is red so hard to photograph? It always comes out with an orange tint! Maybe I just need a new camera.

I have to confess that I have started a fourth pair, but I seem to be running out of gas. I'm just not cut out for marathons. I still have time to make the finish line, but I won't be coming in first!

Better Late Than Never

There's just something wrong about posting directions to a fingerless mitt when the temperature yesterday was over 90 degrees and today is going to be another warm one too. Still, I did promise to post the directions for the little fingerless mitts I made for my niece. These are really, really basic and, if you knit mittens, you almost don't even need a pattern. They are sized for a ten year old, but because of the ribbing, they are stretchy. There is already an adult pattern that's very similar by Clara Parkes called "Maine Morning Mitts" and you can find that pattern here . I didn't see much sense in trying to reinvent something for adults that's already been done and done well. I can't say the same for my pattern, but here goes anyway:

Child's Basic Ribbed Mitts

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.

Material: Worsted weight. I used Malabrigo Worsted (Glazed Carrot). The mitts don’t take much yarn, so one skein of 100 yards should be more than plenty.

Needles: U.S. size 4/3.5mm in double pointed needles or circular. Personally, I’m a die-hard fan of the magic loop method, but use whatever works best for you.

Gauge: 6 sts. = 1 inch in stockinette

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
Sts. = stitches
M1 = make 1 stitch. Note: I like to make paired increases, otherwise known as M1F (make one front) and M1B (make one back), both of which can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases Again, use what ever increase you like.

Pattern: Cast on 40 stitches and join in the round.
K2, p2 for 3 inches.
Begin thumb gusset: k2; p1; place marker; m1; place marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round, ending p2.
Next round: k2; p1; slip marker, k1, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Second increase: k2; p1; slip marker, M1F, k1, M1B, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next two rounds: k2; p1; slip marker, k3, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Third increase: k2; p1; slip marker, M1, k3, M1, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next two rounds: k2; p1; slip marker, k5, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Fourth increase: k2; p1; slip marker, M1, k5, M1, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next two rounds: k2; p1; slip marker, k7, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Fifth increase: k2; p1; slip marker, M1, k7, M1, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next two rounds: k2; p1; slip marker, k9, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Sixth increase: k2; p1; slip marker, M1, k9, M1, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next two rounds: k2; p1; slip marker, k11, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Seventh increase: k2; p1; slip marker, M1, k11, M1, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next round: k2; p1; slip marker, k13, slip marker; p1; k2, p2 to end of round.
Next round: k2; p1; remove marker and slip 13 thumb stitches to a piece of waste yarn, remove second marker; p1; k2; p2 to end of round.
Now continue in k2, p2 for seven rounds, or to desired length.
Bind off in k2, p2 ribbing.

Thumb: Place the 13 thumb stitches onto your needles. Join yarn and pick up 2 sts. over the thumb hole. (15 sts.). Now knit around until you come to one stitch before the first picked up stitch. Knit these two stitches together. Knit the second picked up stitch with the next stitch and mark beginning of round. (By making these two decreases, you’ll close the “hole” that sometimes appears.) (13 sts.)
Knit one round, decreasing one more stitch. (12 sts.)
Knit one round.
K2, p2 for 3 rounds.
Loosely bind off in k2, p2 ribbing.

Weave in ends and make a matching mitt!

Is it Spring yet?

Yay! I'm back online! My son was able to rescue my computer and all my patterns and pictures! I knew that college would pay off some day! I don't know exactly what he did and even if he told me, I wouldn't understand it. All I know is that I'm back....and yes, all of my documents are backed up on my external drive!! Thank you for all the prayers!

I designed this fella last year and had every intention to post him then, but time slipped away, so I decided to just wait and do it this year. Unfortunately, I didn't know my computer would crash. Still, I like to think this is more of a Springtime rabbit.

I remember that he was test knit last year (thanks Sue!), but when I looked at him again, I decided that I didn't like his paws so I redid them. Then after I knit both a bib and a cloth, I decided that I didn't like his face, so I redid that as well! I can tell you that he also looks good in both baby pink and baby green!

The pictures aren't as nice as I'd like them to be. If you've been following the weather here in New England, you know that we've been having torrential rain. Fortunately, we're okay, but in Rhode Island, where my son lives, it's just been disastrous! Historic floods. The weatherman promised that the sun would shine today, but apparently he needs to take another look at his weather charts. It's pretty cloudy and not good for taking pictures. Still, I didn't want to wait another day. Oh, and don't forget that the pdfs for both patterns are in the sidebar.

I just realized that tomorrow is the anniversary of this blog. Wow, two years. Maybe I should start a tradition and post a new pattern every year!

Hippity Hop!

Copyright 2009; 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Light Grape.

Needles: US 5 or 6 You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.
2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.

Pattern: Cast on 38 sts.
Row 1: (right side) knit for 25 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, knit for 14 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 17 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 20 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 23 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 25 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 27 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 29 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 31 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 33 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit 35 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.


Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.

Row 1: (right side) knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: k13; p2; k1; p2; k3; p2; k1; p2; k12.
Row 14: k12; (p1, k1) x6; p1; k13.
Row 15: k12; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k11.
Row 16: k12; p5; k1; p1; k1; p5; k13.
Row 17: k10; (p1, k1, p1, k5) x2; p1; k1; p1; k9.
Row 18: k8; (p1, k1) x2; (p5, k1, p1, k1) x2; p1; k9.
Row 19: k10; p1; k2; (p1, k3) x3; p1; k2; p1; k9.
Row 20: k6; p3; k1; p3; k3; p5; k3; p3; k1; p3; k7.
Row 21: k10; p1; k17; p1; k9.
Row 22: k5; p4; k1; p17; k1; p5; k5.
Row 23: k10; p1; k17; p1; k9.
Row 24: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p6; k5.
Row 25: k11; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 26: k5; p6; k2; p3; k5; p3; k2; p7; k5.
Row 27: k14; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k4; p2; k7.
Row 28: k5; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p7; k1; p10; k5.
Row 29: k14; p1; k9; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k6.
Row 30: k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p4; k3; p4; k1; p8; k5.
Row 31: k13; (p1, k3) x3; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k7.
Row 32: k5; (p2; k1) x2; p1; k1; p11; k1; p8; k5.
Row 33: k13; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k7.
Row 34: k5; (p2, k1) x2; p1; k1; p4; k3; p4; k1; p8; k5.
Row 35: k14; p1; k3; p3; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p1; k7.
Row 36: k5; (p2, k1) x3; p9; k1; p9; k5.
Row 37: k14; p1; k9; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k7.
Row 38: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; (k1, p9) x2; k5.
Row 39: k14; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k7.
Row 40: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; (k1, p9) x2; k5.
Row 41: k14; p1; k9; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k8.
Row 42: k5; p3; k1; p3; k2; p9; k1; p9; k5.
Row 43: k14; p1; k8; p1; k5; p1; k8.
Row 44: k5; p4; k1; p5; k1; p6; k2; p5; k2; p2; k5.
Row 45: k6; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k9.
Row 46: k5; (p5, k1) x2; p3; k2; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k5.
Row 47: k7; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k1; p3; k1; p1; k3; p1; k11.
Row 48: k5; p7; k3; p6; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k5.
Row 49: k7; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k22.
Row 50: k5; p17; k1; p2; k1; p1; (k1, p2) x2; k5.
Row 51: k7; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k22.
Row 52: k5; p18; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k5.
Row 53: k8; p1; k5; p1; k23.
Row 54: k5; p19; k1; p4; k1; p3; k5.
Row 55: k8; p1; k4; p1; k24.
Row 56: k5; p20; k1; p2; k1; p4; k5.
Row 57: k10; p2; k26.
Row 58: k5; p28; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: (k6, p10) x2; k6.
Row 61: knit;
Row 62: k8; p6; k10; p6; k8.
Rows 63 – 66: knit.
Row 67(right side): knit for 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise; knit remaining sts. 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 68: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 68: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 69: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before.

Weave in ends.

Hippity Hop! Cloth

Copyright 2009; 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Yellow.

Needles: U.S. Size 5 or 6 Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 38 sts. (NOTE: Odd numbered rows are the right side and even numbered rows are the wrong side.)

Rows 1 – 8: knit.

Row 9 (right side): k13; p2; k1; p2; k3; p2; k1; p2; k12.
Row 10: k12; (p1, k1)x6; p1; k13.
Row 11: k12; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k11.
Row 12: k12; p5; k1; p1; k1; p5; k13.
Row 13: k10; (p1, k1, p1, k5) x2; p1; k1; p1; k9.
Row 14: k8; (p1, k1) x2; (p5, k1, p1, k1) x2; p1; k9.
Row 15: k10; p1; k2; (p1, k3) x3; p1; k2; p1; k9.
Row 16: k6; p3; k1; p3; k3; p5; k3; p3; k1; p3; k7.
Row 17: k10; p1; k17; p1; k9.
Row 18: k5; p4; k1; p17; k1; p5; k5.
Row 19: k10; p1; k17; p1; k9.
Row 20: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p6; k5.
Row 21: k11; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 22: k5; p6; k2; p3; k5; p3; k2; p7; k5.
Row 23: k14; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k4; p2; k7.
Row 24: k5; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p7; k1; p10; k5.
Row 25: k14; p1; k9; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k6.
Row 26: k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p4; k3; p4; k1; p8; k5.
Row 27: k13; (p1, k3) x3; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k7.
Row 28: k5; (p2; k1) x2; p1; k1; p11; k1; p8; k5.
Row 29: k13; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k7.
Row 30: k5; (p2, k1) x2; p1; k1; p4; k3; p4; k1; p8; k5.
Row 31: k14; p1; k3; p3; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p1; k7.
Row 32: k5; (p2, k1) x3; p9; k1; p9; k5.
Row 33: k14; p1; k9; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k7.
Row 34: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; (k1, p9) x2; k5.
Row 35: k14; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k7.
Row 36: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; (k1, p9) x2; k5.
Row 37: k14; p1; k9; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k8.
Row 38: k5; p3; k1; p3; k2; p9; k1; p9; k5.
Row 39: k14; p1; k8; p1; k5; p1; k8.
Row 40: k5; p4; k1; p5; k1; p6; k2; p5; k2; p2; k5.
Row 41: k6; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k9.
Row 42: k5; (p5, k1) x2; p3; k2; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k5.
Row 43: k7; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k1; p3; k1; p1; k3; p1; k11.
Row 44: k5; p7; k3; p6; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k5.
Row 45: k7; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k22.
Row 46: k5; p17; k1; p2; k1; p1; (k1, p2) x2; k5.
Row 47: k7; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k22.
Row 48: k5; p18; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k5.
Row 49: k8; p1; k5; p1; k23.
Row 50: k5; p19; k1; p4; k1; p3; k5.
Row 51: k8; p1; k4; p1; k24.
Row 52: k5; p20; k1; p2; k1; p4; k5.
Row 53: k10; p2; k26.
Row 54: k6; p26; k6.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k8; p22; k8.
Rows 57 – 65: knit.

Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.

OMG!!

I'm sick. Really, really sick. My computer is barely on life support. Apparently it has become infected with some virus and I can't access anything. For that matter, I can't even get past the log in screen! All I have is this old little laptop that doesn't want to work all the time. All my patterns and all my pictures are possibly gone! This includes the three patterns I said I would do for the KALs, the seven brand new patterns that I just created for the 2011 Dishcloth Calendar, and all the brand new patterns that I did just for fun to post for you. My son tells me that there is still hope of retrieving the data and saving the computer, but I won't know until he drives up from Rhode Island this weekend. In the meantime, I'm praying that everything will work out. If you'd like to pray with me, I'll take all the help I can get!!

Elaine (nice name!) left me a comment on my last post about the orange mitts that I made for my niece. I didn't have a pattern, but I'll write it down and post it as soon as I can, assuming that this computer will let me.

A word of advice, if your son tells you to back up your documents, do it.

The Last Hat of Winter

You must be getting tired of looking at hats by now, but I promise this is the last one....at least for awhile! I'm hoping that we won't need hats or mittens or scarfs or winter coats for a long time. Of course, I know better and so the snow shovel still is handy. Eliza specifically asked for an orange hat. I couldn't believe it. Orange? What happened to pink and purple? I welcomed the change though and, as luck would have it, I just happened to have a skein of Malabrigo worsted in "Glazed Carrot".

It took me awhile to find the perfect pattern, but then I came across this one on Ravelry. It's called "Sakura" and is for sale on Knitpicks . It's one of their instant downloads for $1.99. I just love the top of the hat. It looks like a blossom.

It was fairly easy to knit and Eliza just loves it. I think she's worn it everyday since I gave it to her. I even had enough yarn to make yet another pair of fingerless gloves.

I wouldn't be surprised if she asked me to make her another one next year! I think this is one pattern that I'll knit again and again. Eliza loves the Malabrigo and how soft it is! She kept rubbing the mitts against her cheek! I know the feeling. This is my most favorite yarn. I could just knit with it day in and day out.

Speaking of knitting day in and day out, I'm finishing up a brand new pattern that I hope to post very soon! If only cotton was as easy to knit with as that yummy Malabrigo!