It's Over!

I survived the first KAL, but I am a little relieved that it's over. Things didn't go quite as smoothly as I had hoped. Once again, my computer was attacked by a virus on the second day. Fortunately, it hit after I posted the directions for that day, but I was one stressed out wreck all day. The last time this happened, my son installed some protection program that did its work. It only took him three hours to get me back up and running again!


I received lots and lots of nice emails from group members, which boosted my spirits considerably. I only had one (so far) negative response. That's pretty good for a group with over 7,800 members! I knew going into this that you can't please everyone!

In any event, here is the cloth for August. It's my Baby Starfish. I've posted both the bib and the cloth. If you want a pdf, you'll have to be patient because my webspace is filled. I'm still working on getting another site to host the patterns. It should be ready by next week. In the meantime, you can just cut and paste if you can't wait.

I hope you'll like this one. It just reminds me of the beach and fun summers along the coast of Maine and Cape Cod.


I agreed to host two more Kals this year and I thought I would have some time to regroup, but I just checked and realized that I'm scheduled to do next month's too!! Yikes! Everyone will be sick of me by the end of the year!

Baby Starfish Bib

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Peacock.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version
For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.
Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.

Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 13: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 14: k2, p35; k2.
Row 15: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 16: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 17: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 18: k2, p35; k2.
Row 19: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 20: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 21: k20; p2; k17.
Row 22: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 23: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 24: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 25: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 26: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 27: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 28: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 29: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 30: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 31: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 32: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 33: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 34: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 35: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 36: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 37: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 38: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 39: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 40: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 41: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 42: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 43: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 44: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 45: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 46: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 47: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 48: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 49: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 50: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 51: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 52: k3; p33; k3.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k2; p35; k2.
Row 55: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 56: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 57: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 58: k2; p35; k2.
Row 59: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 60: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row s 61 - 64: knit.
Row 65: Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 66: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 66: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.
Weave in ends.

Baby Starfish Cloth

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" X 8 ½"

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Shrimp.

Needles: U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 39 stitches

Row 1: knit.
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 7: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 8: k2, p35; k2.
Row 9: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 10: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 11: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 12: k2, p35; k2.
Row 13: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 14: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 15: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 16: k2; p35; k2.
Row 17: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 18: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 19: k20; p2; k17.
Row 20: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 21: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 22: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 23: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 24: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 25: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 26: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 27: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 28: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 29: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 30: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 31: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 32: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 33: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 34: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 35: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 36: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 37: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 38: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 39: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 40: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 41: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 42: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 43: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 44: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 45: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 46: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 47: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 48: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 49: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 50: k3; p33; k3.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k2; p35; k2.
Row 53: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 54: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 55: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 56: k2; p35; k2.
Row 57: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 58: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 59: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 60: k2; p35; k2.
Row 61: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 62: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 63: knit.
Row 64: knit.
Row 65: knit.
Row 66: knit.
Row 67: knit.

Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.

My first KAL!

Well, August is fast approaching which means that my very first KAL will begin August first! I have to admit that I am pretty nervous about it. There are over 7,800 members and that's a lot of pressure! I keep worrying that they won't like the design or me! I'm also scheduled for two additional designs later in the year, but if this turns into a disaster, it may be the last you'll ever hear from me!!

For those of you who already belong to the Yahoo Monthly Dishcloths group, you'll get first crack at the design. For those of you who aren't a member, I'll be posting the complete pattern after the KAL is done, so you won't be left out. The KAL is for a cloth, but of course, there is a coordinating bib. Actually, as with all my designs, the bib came first!! I hope everyone will like it. It's just a fun, whimsical design that's perfect for Summer. The KAL will run for six days and, on the seventh, I'll post it here! Wish me luck!

Hello...again

I thought maybe it was time to get re-acquainted with this blog. Knitting hasn't been at the top of my priorities lately. My daughter-in-law was recently diagnosed with cancer and I've been trying to help out where I can. I'm afraid that I haven't even had a pair of knitting needles in my hands for the past couple of weeks. I guess I thought it would be more productive to just worry! It seems to have worked though, because things are looking much better now! I want to thank you all for your nice messages and prayers. I've discovered who my real friends are.

Before life got so crazy, I did knit up the cloth for the frog to match the bib I posted last time. As with the bib, this cloth isn't in the pdf files yet. I'm still waiting for my website to get up and running. Even with the new website, you'll still be able to just access it from here. I'm waiting for my son to get back from vacation when he promises he'll help me! I'm starting to have a backlog of patterns that need to get posted! ;o)

I do want to mention that if you send me an email, be sure to put something in the subject line like "bibs" or "blog", so I know that it's not spam. I have received a couple of messages from people without any identifying information and if I don't know you, or don't have any information why you're contacting me, then I don't open it.

On a parting note, here's what we woke up to this morning. The apartment house across the street had some uninvited guests for breakfast. This is what happens when you get drunk the night before, pass out, and forget to turn off your oven and stove.

Hop-a-Long Cloth

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 7 ¼" X 7 ¾ ".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Celery.

Needles: U.S. Size 5 or 6 Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 37 sts. (NOTE: Odd numbered rows are the right side and even numbered rows are the wrong side.)

Rows 1 – 7: k1, p1 across row.
Row 8: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 9: (k1, p1) x3; (k3, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 10: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 11: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 12: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k3; p13; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 13: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k18; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k1; p6; k3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k8; p3; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p7) x2; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p14; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k14; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k11; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; (p8, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k2; p2; k4; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39: (k1, p1) x2; (k4; p1) x3; k14; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k4; (p4, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43: (k1, p1) x2; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k20; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 45: (k1, p1) x2; (k3, p1) x2; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k2; p1; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p2; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51: (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Rows 52 - 58: k1, p1 across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Micah's Frogs

First, I apologize for being away so long. Life has dealt our family a cruel blow, but we're surviving and life will go on. Needless to say, I haven't felt a lot like knitting lately, but it has bothered me that I haven't been posting as often as I'd like to.

On a happier note, my grandson, Micah, recently turned 5. As I've told you before, he just loves frogs (shudder), so I thought it would be fun to knit him some frog mittens.

This is the Frog Mitts pattern from Morehouse Farm . They had a big sale on all of their patterns, so I couldn't resist this one, plus a "few" others. They also sell kits in addition to their patterns. The only drawback on these is the two holes for the eyes. I'm not so sure how practical it is to have two holes in your mittens! Still Micah seemed to like them and he insisted on wearing them home, even though it was close to 85 degrees!

I used Cascade 220 in Palm Green. A nice froggy green!

I also knit him a pair of froggy socks. Well, at least I tried to make them. I haven't ever used intarsia on socks before and after these, I doubt that I'll ever try it again! I started out using black and green, but after starting and ripping, or should I say "frogging" it three times, I ended up just ditching the black and starting over with the navy blue. I had a hard time getting a nice smooth cuff. I had much better luck with these, or so I thought. When Micah went to put them on, we could barely get them over his heel. There is hardly any stretch to the cuff, because of the intarsia. Duh, I should have realized that! On top of that, I discovered that his feet have grown significantly since the last pair of socks I made him!! Very inconsiderate of him, don't you think?

In any event, he wanted to wear them home as well. I bet it was fun trying to get them off his feet that night. I used Cascade Heritage for the navy and some left over bits of Knit Picks Stroll in "Canopy". I love that yarn! If you think you might like the chart, I'll post it. Just click on the picture to enlarge it.

I used size 2.75 mm needles and 52 stitches which gave me a repeat of four frogs.

After all these frog projects, I realized that I should probably add a frog bib to the mix as well (not for Micah, of course). I call this bib "Hop-A-Long" and I warn you that it has NOT BEEN TESTED. This time around, I decided that you can all be my test knitters, so if any of you decide to make it, please let me know if you find any errors. If you would prefer to make a dishcloth, you just need to knit seven rows of "k1, p1" and then begin the pattern with Row 12 and end with Row 62. Eventually, I'll knit up a cloth. There isn't a pdf for this one pattern. My webspace has run out of room. My son is working on getting me set up with a website, but until that's done, I'll just have to post the patterns here. So then, without further ado, here's

"Hop-A-Long":

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Apple Green.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1: k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 20 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 35 sts.
Row 11: k1, p1 across row.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern: Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
Row 10: k1, p1 across row.
Row 11: k1, p1 across row.
*Row 12: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 13: (k1, p1) x3; (k3, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k3; p13; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k18; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k1; p6; k3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k8; p3; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p7) x2; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p14; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k14; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k11; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; (p8, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k2; p2; k4; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43: (k1, p1) x2; (k4; p1) x3; k14; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k4; (p4, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x2; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k20; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x2; (k3, p1) x2; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k2; p1; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 52: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 53: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p2; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 54: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 55: (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Rows 56 – 62: k1, p1 across row.
Row 63: k1, p1 for 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 66: k1, p1 across row.
Row 67: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across row.
Row 71: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 66: p1, k1 across row.
Row 67: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (10 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across row.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (9 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (8 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (7 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (6 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (5 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.