Heart Flag Bib

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

PDF file is available here.

Size:  approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7" wide

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream (approximately 98 yards) if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Delft Blue.

Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm 

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties

                or

Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES

This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

psso:  pass slipped stitch over

k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together

p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together

sts. = stitches

dec. = decrease

dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches

Row 1: k26; turn (11 sts. unworked)

Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; k17.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; k20; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; k23; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; k26; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; k28; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; k30; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; k32; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; k34; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; knit to end

Row 11:  knit.

Continue with *Row 10 below.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1:  knit.

Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (18 sts.)

Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (21 sts.)

Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (24 sts.)

Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (27 sts.)

Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (30 sts.)

Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (33 sts.)

Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., knit across row.  (35 sts.)

Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., knit across row.  (37 sts.)

*Rows 10 – 17:  knit.

Row 18 (wrong side): k5; p27; k5.

Row 19:  knit.

Row 20:  k5; p4; (k3, p1) x4; k3; p4; k5.

Row 21:  k8; (p1, k3) x5; p1; k8.

Row 22:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 23:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 24:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 25:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 26:  k5; p2; k1; p10; k1; p10; k1; p2; k5.

Row 27:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 28:  k5; p2; k1; p8; k5; p8; k1; p2; k5.

Row 29:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 30:  k5; p2; k1; p6; k9; p6; k1; p2; k5.

Row 31:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 32:  k5; p2; k1; p4; k13; p4; k1; p2; k5.

Row 33:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 34:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k15; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 35:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 36:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 37:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 38:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 39:  k7; p1; k12; p1; k8; p1; k7.

Row 40:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p4; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 41:  k8; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k8.

Row 42:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 43:  k7; p1; k11; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k7.

Row 44:  k5; p2; k1; p5; k4; p3; k4; p5; k1; p2; k5.

Row 45:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 46:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 47:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 48:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 49:  k8; (p1, k3) x5; p1; k8.

Row 50:  k5; p4; (k3, p1) x4; k3; p4; k5.

Row 51:  knit.

Row 52:  k5; p27; k5.

Rows 53 – 62:  knit.

Row 63:  k13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; knit remaining sts.: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64:  (wrong side) knit.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (12 sts.)

Row 66:  knit.

Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (11 sts.)

Row 68:  knit.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  knit.

Row 71:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  knit.

Row 73:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  knit.

Row 75:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  knit.

Row 77:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  knit.

Row 79:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  knit.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog.  (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the

I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER

With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

 Row 64:  (wrong side) knit.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (12 sts.)

Row 66:  knit.

Row 67:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)

Row 68:  knit.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  knit.

Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  knit.

Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  knit.

Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  knit.

Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  knit.

Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  knit across row.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  knit.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog.  (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.