Updated patterns!

I'm in the process of updating my old patterns, particularly the bibs, to include charts. I'm rewriting some of the directions to make the patterns even easier and including alternative methods for beginning the bibs and for making the ties. Look for these patterns in the sidebar to see which ones have been added. It's a slow process, but eventually, they'll all be there!



Friday, October 2, 2009

Gobble!


Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 3/4" from neck edge to bottom and 8 1/2" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Samples were done in Peaches & Crème Lt. Sage and Butterscotch.

Needles: US 6/4mm
2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Pattern: Cast on 40 sts.
Row 1: (right side) knit for 27 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, knit 16 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k19 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k22 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k25 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k27 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k29 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k31 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k33 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k35 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k37 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit to end.
Row 13: knit.

Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version
This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: knit across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (36 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (38 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (40 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k14; p12; k14.
Row 13: k13; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 14: k13; p1; k1; p11; k1; p1; k12.
Row 15: k11; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k2; p2; k11.
Row 16: k10; p1; k2; p2; k1; p9; k1; p2; k12.
Row 17: k10; p2; k3; p1; k7; p1; k3; p2; k11.
Row 18: k8; p3; k2; p4; k1; p6; k1; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 19: k10; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; p2; k12.
Row 20: k6; p7; k2; p2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k2; p4; k6.
Row 21: k7; p5; (k4, p1)x2; k3; p2; k1; p2; k10.
Row 22: k5; p3; k5; p1; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p4; k7; p1; k5.
Row 23: k6; p2; k3; p2; k4; (p1, k3) x2; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 24: k5; p2; k2; p4; k2; (p3, k1) x2; p9; k2; p1; k5.
Row 25: k6; p2; k9; p1; k3; p1; k9; p2; k7.
Row 26: k5; p3; k2; p8; k1; p3; k1; p8; k2; p2; k5.
Row 27: k7; p2; k8; p1; k3; p2; k7; p2; k8.
Row 28: k5; p4; k2; p6; k2; p3; k1; p7; k2; p3; k5.
Row 29: k9; p2; k6; p1; k3; p2; k1; p2; k2; p3; k9.
Row 30: k5; p5; k2; p2; k1; p1; k3; p3; k1; p5; k2; p5; k5.
Row 31: k11; p1; k5; p1; k3; p2; k2; p1; k1; p2; k11.
Row 32: k5; p7; k1; p1; k1; p2; k2; p3; k1; p4; k4; p4; k5.
Row 33: k8; p5; k3; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k2; p5; k8.
Row 34: k5; p2; k5; p3; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p7; k2; p2; k5.
Row 35: k6; p2; k8; p1; k5; (p2, k7)x2.
Row 36: k5; p1; k2; p8; (k1, p7)x2; k2; p1; k5.
Row 37: k6; p2; (k7, p1)x2; k8; p2; k6.
Row 38: k5; p1; k2; p8; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k4; p2; k5.
Row 39: k8; p4; k3; p1; k7; p1; k3; p6; k7.
Row 40: k5; p3; k6; p2; k1; p6; k1; p3; k2; p6; k5.
Row 41: k10; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; p2; k12.
Row 42: k5; p6; k2; (p4, k1)x2; p5; k2; p5; k5.
Row 43: k9, p2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k5; p2; k11.
Row 44: k5; p5; k2; p7; k3; p8; k1; p4; k5.
Row 45: k8; p2; k19; p2; k9.
Row 46: k5; p4; k2; (p6, k1)x2; p5; k2; p3; k5.
Row 47: k8; p2; k4; p2; k6; p2; k5; p2; k9.
Row 48: k5; p4; k2; (p4, k4)x2; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 49: k8; p6; k1; p2; k4; p2; k1; p2; k3; p2; k9.
Row 50: k5; p4; k7; p1; k2; p4; k2; p2; k5; p3; k5.
Row 51: k15; p2; k4; p2; k3; p4; k10.
Row 52: k6; p11; k2; p3; k2; p10; k6.
Row 53: k16; p2; k2; p2; k18.
Row 54: k8; p11; k4; p9; k8.
Row 55: k18; p2; k20.
Row 56: k10; p20; k10.
Rows 57 - 64: knit.
Row 65: knit for 14 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 66: knit across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 66: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases: All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 67: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before.
Weave in ends.

1 comment:

Deb said...

You're so amazing! I don't know how you create so many cute patterns! I love them all. I have plans to knit a "Down Cloverlaine Blanket" soon. How cute would that be? Thanks for sharing your talents & gifts.