Updated patterns!

I'm in the process of updating my old patterns, particularly the bibs, to include charts. I'm rewriting some of the directions to make the patterns even easier and including alternative methods for beginning the bibs and for making the ties. Look for these patterns in the sidebar to see which ones have been added. It's a slow process, but eventually, they'll all be there!



Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Chill Out! Bib


Copyright 2009, 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide


Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Grape.


Needles: US 5 or 6 You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.


2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.



Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.

Row 1: (right side) k1, p1 for 26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k1, p1 for 15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, k1, p1 to end.
Row 13: k1, p1 across row.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.



Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: p1, k1 across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1, k1 for 32 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1 for 31 sts.; p1; k2; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 14: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 15: (k1, p1)x3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k10; (p1, k4)x2; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 16: (k1, p1)x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 17: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k3; p1; k5; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 18: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 19: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x3.
Row 20: (k1, p1)x2; k2; p4; k1; p3; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 21: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k4; p2; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 22: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p4; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p3; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 23: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k6; p1; k8; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1; p5; k2; p4; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 25: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k6; p4; k8; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; p2; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 27: (k1, p1)x2; k2; p1; k4; p1; k15; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k1; p3; k7; p4; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 29: (k1, p1)x3; k5; (p1, k1)x2; p2; k7; p2; k1; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k2; p11; k2; p2; k1; p4; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1)x3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k12; p2; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p4; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 33: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p4)x3; k2; p1; k1.
Row 35: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p2; k2; p1; k1.
Row 37: k1; p1; k1; p3; k6; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 39: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p3)x2; (k1, p2)x2; k1, p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 41: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k3; p1; k2; p3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 43: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p7; k1; (p2, k1)x2; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 45: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p7, (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 47: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p3)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 49: (k1, p1)x2; k9; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p3; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p8; k3; p3; k1; p8; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 51: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 52: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p10; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 53: (k1, p1)x2; k12; p2; k8; p1; k8; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 54: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p13; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 55: (k1, p1)x3; k13; p6; k8; (p1, k1)x3.
Row 56: (k1, p1)x3; k1; p25; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 57: (k1, p1)x4; k23; (p1, k1)x4.
Row 58: (k1, p1)x4; k1; p21; (k1, p1)x4; k1.
Row 59: (k1, p1)x5; k19; (p1, k1)x5.
Rows 60 – 64: k1, p1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 for 14 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.


NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with RS facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.


Row 66: k1, p1 across row.


Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across.


Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: p1, k1 across row.
Row 83: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)


Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips


NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER


With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 66: (wrong side) p1, k1 across row.


Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across row.
Row 71: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before. Weave in ends.