Updated patterns!

I'm in the process of updating my old patterns, particularly the bibs, to include charts. I'm rewriting some of the directions to make the patterns even easier and including alternative methods for beginning the bibs and for making the ties. Look for these patterns in the sidebar to see which ones have been added. It's a slow process, but eventually, they'll all be there!



Saturday, November 28, 2009

Rudy


Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ¾" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ¾" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Emerald Green.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1: k26; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise; k17; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise; k20; turn (8sts. unworked)
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise; k23; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise; k26; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise; k28; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise; k30; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise; k32; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise; k34; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise; k35.
Row 11: knit.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.

Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (37 sts.)
*Row 12: knit.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k13; p12; k12.
Row 15: k14; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k12.
Row 16: k10; p2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p3; k11.
Row 17: k10; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2; p1; k5; p1; k12.
Row 18: k8; p4; k1; p5; k4; p4; k1; p2; k8.
Row 19: k10; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k12.
Row 20: k6; p6; k1; p5; k4; p4; k1; p4; k6.
Row 21: k11; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k13.
Row 22: k5; p8; k1; p4; k4; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 23: k12; (p1, k2) x2; (p1, k3) x2; p1; k10.
Row 24: k5; p10; k8; p1; k1; p7; k5.
Row 25: k13 (p1, k1) x4; p1; k15.
Row 26: k5; p10; (k1, p1) x3; k1; p2; k1; p7; k5.
Row 27: k11; (p1, k1)x2; p9; k6; p1; k6.
Row 28: k5; (p7, k1)x2; p1; k1; p3; (k1, p2)x2; k5.
Row 29: k10; p4; k2; p1; k7; p1; k12.
Row 30: k5; p6; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p5; k5.
Row 31: k9; (p1, k2) x3; p1; k3; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k8.
Row 32: k5; p6; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p2) x2; k4; p4; k5.
Row 33: k9; (p1, k2) x3; p1, k3; p1; k2; p1; k11.
Row 34: k5; p6; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; p2; k4; p4; k5.
Row 35: k8; (p1, k1) x2; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p9; k1; p2; (k1, p1) x4; k5.
Row 37: k14; p2; k8; p1; k12.
Row 38: k5; p8; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; p8; k5.
Row 39: k13; p1; k3; p6; k6; p1; k7.
Row 40: k5; p9; k1; p8; k3; p6; k5.
Row 41: k10; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k13.
Row 42: k5; p8; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k5.
Row 43: k9; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p2; k12.
Row 44: k5; p6; k1; p1; k1; p9; k1; p4; k1; p3; k5.
Row 45: k8; p1; k4; p1; k9; p1; k1; p1; k11.
Row 46: k5; p5; k1; p2; k1; p9; k1; p4; (k1, p1) x2; k5.
Row 47: k8; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; (k3, p1) x2; k6.
Row 48: k5; p4; (k1, p5) x2; k2; p2; k2; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 49: k8; p2; k4; p1; k1; p5; k1; p1; k5; p1; k8.
Row 50: k5; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k5.
Row 51: k13; p1; k6; p1; k3; p4; k9.
Row 52: k5; p10; k1; p8; k1; p7; k5.
Row 53: k12; p1; k8; p1; k15.
Row 54: k5; p10; k1; p7; k1; p1; k2; p2; k1; p2; k5.
Row 55: k9; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k14.
Row 56: k5; (p4, k1) x2; p2 (k1, p4) x3; k5.
Row 57: k9; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k3; p2; k12.
Row 58: k5; p1; k1; p5; k1; p19; k5.
Row 59: k16; p1; k20.
Row 60: k5; p25; k1; p1; k5.
Row 61: k26; p1; k10.
Row 62: k5; p8; k11; p3; k1; p4; k5.
Row 63: knit.
Row 64: k6; p5; k15; p5; k6.
Rows 65 – 68: knit.

Row 69: k13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; knit to end: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 70: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 71: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Row 73: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 74: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 75: (right side) k9, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: k8, k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: k7, k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: k6, k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: k5, k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: k4, k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 86: knit.
Row 87: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 70: (wrong side) knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 71: knit for 11 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Row 73: knit for 10 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 74: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 75: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 9 sts. (10 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 8 sts. (9 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 7 sts. (8 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 6 sts. (7 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 5 sts. (6 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 4 sts. (5 sts.)
Row 86: knit.
Row 87: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord, as before.
Weave in ends.