Updated patterns!

I'm in the process of updating my old patterns, particularly the bibs, to include charts. I'm rewriting some of the directions to make the patterns even easier and including alternative methods for beginning the bibs and for making the ties. Look for these patterns in the sidebar to see which ones have been added. It's a slow process, but eventually, they'll all be there!



Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Hay, Baby!


Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 8 ½" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Celery.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.

Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p11; k13.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k11; p15; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p19; k9.
Row 17: knit.
Row18: k8; p21; k8.
Row 19: k13; p11; k13;
Row 20: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 21: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 22: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 23: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 24: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 25: k10; p1; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p1; k10.
Row 26: k5; p5; k1; p3; k2; p5; k2; p3; k1; p5; k5.
Row 27: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 28: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 29: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 30: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 31: k13; p1; k9; p1; k13.
Row 32: k5; p9; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 33: k13; p1; k1; p7; k1; p1; k13.
Row 34: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 35: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 37: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 38: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 39: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 40: k5; p4; k3; p13; k3; p4; k5.
Row 41: k8; p1; k2; p1; k13; p1; k2; p1; k8.
Row 42: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p13; k1; p3; k1; p2; k5.
Row 43: k6; p1; k5; p1; k11; p1; k5; p1; k6.
Row 44: k5; p1; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; p6; k1; p1; k5.
Row 45: k7; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k4; p1; k7.
Row 46: k5; p3; (k1, p2) X 2; k9; (p2, k1) X 2; p3; k5.
Row 47: k9; p2; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p2; k9.
Row 48: k5; p8; k3; p5; k3; p8; k5.
Row 49: k13; p2; k7; p2; k13.
Row 50: k5; p8; k2; p7; k2; p8; k5.
Row 51: k14; p2; k5; p2; k14.
Row 52: k7; p23; k7.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k9; p19; k9.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k11; p15; k11.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k13; p11; k13.
Rows 59 – 64: knit.

Shoulder Shaping:

Row 65: knit 13 stitches; bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise, and knit the remaining stitches. You should have 13 sts. on each side.

Next row: knit across and place first 13 stitches on a holder. Work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:

Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)

(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)

Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)

Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.

(Tip for right shoulder) Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row (right side), decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)


Weave in ends.

5 comments:

oylenshpeegul said...

Oops, rows 10 and 11 don't add up. If we're casting on 3 stitches, doesn't that make 36 and 39? Are we supposed to be casting on 2 stitches, to end up with 37?

emack 48609 said...

Please tell us the best way to add stitches in the beginning of a row to look the best.
Thanks, emack 48609

Anne-Rinke said...

It's very cute, I'm going to cast it on pretty soon!

Moo Knits said...

How do you end when you don't want the ties?

oylenshpeegul said...

I hate to do this to you, but isn't that row 65 from a seed stitch border? Shouldn't it just be k13 for the garter stitch border?