Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Here we go again!
Just thought I'd let you know that I'm doing another KAL for the Monthly Dishcloths group on Yahoo, starting tomorrow! I hope I remember. Having a KAL start in the middle of the week is throwing me off! I'd like to post the rows here as well, but that's not the agreement I made. I guess you'll just have to wait until it's over to get the pattern! This one will run for six days, then I get a month off and do the next one November 1st. Thanks again to all my wonderful test knitters! It gives me such a peaceful state of mind knowing that at least the directions are correct!
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Where did August go?
Oh wait, I know where it went! Almost everyone in my family spent some time either in a hospital or a doctor's office! Lots of worrying on my part, which translated into lots of sock knitting! (Don't worry though, for those of you who only come here for the free patterns, I do have another one coming up in two weeks.)
So then, would you like to see all the socks? I won't bore you with the details. Most are knit with Tofutsies and are just basic, plain generic patterns. Perfect for mindless knitting. Here they are:
Whew! I used to only have to worry about two boys, but now little Marty has started asking for them too! I love the KnowKnits pouches for my projects and they're everywhere in my house.
When the boys spot one, they always ask if there are socks inside! Do you know how hard (but fun) it is to have to knit three pairs of socks all the time? I'm not complaining, but if only those feet didn't grow so fast! I just hope they outgrow this obsession by the time they're teenagers!
On another different note, some of you may have seen the sneak peek at the new designs for the 2011 Dishcloth Calendar. If you haven't, here's one my designs:
I call it "Belle" (see the cow bell? Bell - Belle....get it?). It's an homage to my great Uncle Clarence and his dairy farm.
The pattern is only available through the calendar which usually goes on sale in September. I hope lots of you buy the calendar and not just for my patterns! The more that sell, the more money I make!! It's the only money I get for my patterns, so I hope you'll all take pity on me!! (How's that for a shameless plug??!!)
Finally, I'm happy to report that I now have my very own website to host patterns. There's no point in giving you the url because if you go there, it just directs you back here! The advantage is that I can post all the patterns in pdf format. I've started to slowly change over the patterns. I've also added the frog and the starfish to the list, so you can now download those. Eventually, I plan to rewrite all the old patterns and include the short row formulas and the crocheted ties so there will be some uniformity to them. Don't hold your breath though, because it will take me forever to get caught up. I just keep coming up with new ideas and I don't want to go back and even revisit some of those old ones!
Friday, August 6, 2010
It's Over!
I survived the first KAL, but I am a little relieved that it's over. Things didn't go quite as smoothly as I had hoped. Once again, my computer was attacked by a virus on the second day. Fortunately, it hit after I posted the directions for that day, but I was one stressed out wreck all day. The last time this happened, my son installed some protection program that did its work. It only took him three hours to get me back up and running again!
I received lots and lots of nice emails from group members, which boosted my spirits considerably. I only had one (so far) negative response. That's pretty good for a group with over 7,800 members! I knew going into this that you can't please everyone!
In any event, here is the cloth for August. It's my Baby Starfish. I've posted both the bib and the cloth. If you want a pdf, you'll have to be patient because my webspace is filled. I'm still working on getting another site to host the patterns. It should be ready by next week. In the meantime, you can just cut and paste if you can't wait.
I hope you'll like this one. It just reminds me of the beach and fun summers along the coast of Maine and Cape Cod.
I agreed to host two more Kals this year and I thought I would have some time to regroup, but I just checked and realized that I'm scheduled to do next month's too!! Yikes! Everyone will be sick of me by the end of the year!
I received lots and lots of nice emails from group members, which boosted my spirits considerably. I only had one (so far) negative response. That's pretty good for a group with over 7,800 members! I knew going into this that you can't please everyone!
In any event, here is the cloth for August. It's my Baby Starfish. I've posted both the bib and the cloth. If you want a pdf, you'll have to be patient because my webspace is filled. I'm still working on getting another site to host the patterns. It should be ready by next week. In the meantime, you can just cut and paste if you can't wait.
I hope you'll like this one. It just reminds me of the beach and fun summers along the coast of Maine and Cape Cod.
I agreed to host two more Kals this year and I thought I would have some time to regroup, but I just checked and realized that I'm scheduled to do next month's too!! Yikes! Everyone will be sick of me by the end of the year!
Baby Starfish Bib
Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Peacock.
Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.
2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.
PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
Short Row Version
For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.
Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.
Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.
Traditional Version
This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.
Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 13: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 14: k2, p35; k2.
Row 15: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 16: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 17: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 18: k2, p35; k2.
Row 19: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 20: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 21: k20; p2; k17.
Row 22: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 23: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 24: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 25: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 26: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 27: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 28: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 29: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 30: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 31: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 32: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 33: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 34: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 35: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 36: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 37: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 38: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 39: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 40: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 41: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 42: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 43: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 44: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 45: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 46: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 47: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 48: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 49: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 50: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 51: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 52: k3; p33; k3.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k2; p35; k2.
Row 55: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 56: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 57: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 58: k2; p35; k2.
Row 59: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 60: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row s 61 - 64: knit.
Row 65: Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.
NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.
Row 66: knit.
Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)
For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html
For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.
Row 66: (wrong side) knit across row.
Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)
Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.
Weave in ends.
Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Peacock.
Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.
2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.
PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
Short Row Version
For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.
Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.
Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.
Traditional Version
This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.
Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 13: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 14: k2, p35; k2.
Row 15: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 16: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 17: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 18: k2, p35; k2.
Row 19: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 20: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 21: k20; p2; k17.
Row 22: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 23: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 24: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 25: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 26: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 27: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 28: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 29: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 30: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 31: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 32: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 33: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 34: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 35: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 36: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 37: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 38: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 39: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 40: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 41: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 42: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 43: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 44: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 45: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 46: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 47: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 48: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 49: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 50: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 51: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 52: k3; p33; k3.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k2; p35; k2.
Row 55: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 56: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 57: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 58: k2; p35; k2.
Row 59: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 60: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row s 61 - 64: knit.
Row 65: Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.
NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.
Row 66: knit.
Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)
For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html
For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.
Row 66: (wrong side) knit across row.
Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)
Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.
Weave in ends.
Baby Starfish Cloth
Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" X 8 ½"
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Shrimp.
Needles: U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
Pattern: Cast on 39 stitches
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 7: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 8: k2, p35; k2.
Row 9: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 10: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 11: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 12: k2, p35; k2.
Row 13: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 14: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 15: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 16: k2; p35; k2.
Row 17: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 18: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 19: k20; p2; k17.
Row 20: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 21: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 22: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 23: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 24: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 25: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 26: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 27: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 28: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 29: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 30: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 31: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 32: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 33: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 34: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 35: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 36: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 37: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 38: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 39: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 40: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 41: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 42: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 43: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 44: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 45: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 46: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 47: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 48: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 49: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 50: k3; p33; k3.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k2; p35; k2.
Row 53: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 54: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 55: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 56: k2; p35; k2.
Row 57: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 58: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 59: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 60: k2; p35; k2.
Row 61: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 62: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 63: knit.
Row 64: knit.
Row 65: knit.
Row 66: knit.
Row 67: knit.
Size: approximately 8" X 8 ½"
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Shrimp.
Needles: U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
Pattern: Cast on 39 stitches
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 7: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 8: k2, p35; k2.
Row 9: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 10: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 11: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 12: k2, p35; k2.
Row 13: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 14: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 15: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 16: k2; p35; k2.
Row 17: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 18: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 19: k20; p2; k17.
Row 20: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 21: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 22: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 23: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 24: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 25: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 26: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 27: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 28: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 29: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 30: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 31: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 32: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 33: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 34: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 35: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 36: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 37: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 38: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 39: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 40: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 41: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 42: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 43: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 44: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 45: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 46: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 47: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 48: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 49: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 50: k3; p33; k3.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k2; p35; k2.
Row 53: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 54: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 55: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 56: k2; p35; k2.
Row 57: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 58: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 59: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 60: k2; p35; k2.
Row 61: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 62: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 63: knit.
Row 64: knit.
Row 65: knit.
Row 66: knit.
Row 67: knit.
Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.
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