Bibs: 101

“How do you cast on the stitches at the beginning of the row?” This is probably the most frequently asked question that I receive and so the time has come to really address it in detail. Personally, I like to use the knitted on method. This is done by inserting your right hand needle into the first stitch on the left hand needle and drawing the stitch up and then placing it back on the left hand needle. The second stitch is then formed by inserting the right hand needle into the front of the stitch that you just made and placed on the left hand needle. Again, you draw up the stitch and place it back on the needle. You keep doing this until you have the number of stitches that you need. There is an excellent video here . It’s important to keep these stitches tight so you don’t get holes.

Now, after having explained that, I want to introduce you to an ALTERNATIVE method to making the increases at the beginning of the bib. This method uses short rows. I know, I know, you’re all sighing and exclaiming that you can’t possibly do short rows, but I assure you that it’s super simple. So simple, in fact, that you’ll never want to cast on stitches at the beginning of rows again. All you need to know is how to knit and how to purl. That’s it, no wrapping stitches, no picking up wraps, no swearing, no sweating. I promise! To prove it, here’s a short tutorial for you to try.

Let’s imagine that the bib (with a seed stitch border) is 37 stitches across. To begin, cast on all 37 stitches, and k1, p1 for 24 stitches. Now, turn your work around so you’ll be working in the opposite direction. There will be 13 stitches on your right hand needle that you have not worked. The yarn tail should be at the back of your work and you slip the first stitch on the left hand needle as if you’re going to knit it (knitwise). Now k1, p1 for 13 sts.; turn. You will have 10 unworked stitches on your right hand needle. Continue in this manner as follows: (NOTE: If you lose your count, all you have to do is make sure that you have the correct number of unworked stitches, when you turn your work!)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 16 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 19 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 22 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 25 sts.; turn. (4 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 28 sts.; turn. (4 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 30 sts.; turn. (2 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 32 sts.; turn. (2 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 to end; turn.
Rows 11: k1, p1 across row.

Wasn’t that easy? The result is a nice smooth border and no annoying holes.

Now that you know how to do the short rows, here’s a little pattern to reward you. It’s called “Heartbeat” and the directions are in the sidebar with the other free pdfs.
I know it can be a pain to leave feedback, but I really want to hear how you like this method. Every one of my testers loved it and I hope you will too!