The Ties That Bind

Wow, I can't believe it's been so long since my last post! Where did the time go? Oh wait, I know. I've been burying my head in new patterns for the 2011 Dishcloth Calendar and another "special" project, neither of which I can really discuss..... yet! However, in the process of working on my special project, I've come up with an alternative way to make those tedious and boring bib ties. I know they can be a pain to make, but I just don't like to use buttons with bibs. I also think it's difficult to gauge the length of the band. Cotton shrinks and if the band isn't long enough, then you have a problem with a too tight neck. With the ties, you don't have to worry about any of that. My new way of making the ties is so much faster, however it does require a slight knowledge of crochet.

I'm the first to admit that I'm lousy with a crochet hook. I know the basic stitches, but I just never really took to it. That said, these new ties are really basic crochet. If you can make a chain, then you should be able to make them without a problem! The ties are only slightly thinner than the knit ones. Here then, is my little tutorial on how to make the crocheted ties.

First you want to take the three stitches that you would normally use for the knitted I-cords and insert your hook through the loops:

Draw your yarn through the three stitches and pull it tightly.

Now crochet an ordinary chain for about 12 inches.

When you've reached the desired length, you're going to put your hook in the second chain from the hook and draw the yarn through this stitch and the one on your hook. A slip stitch. Keep slipping the stitches all the way down the chain until you reach the bib where you began the tie.

Now you just need to cut the yarn, leaving enough to secure the end to the bib. Make sure it's nice and tight.

I actually make a knot on the back to make sure it's really secure and weave the tail in back and forth. Here's a picture of the backside (can you see my knot?):

When you're done, this is what the tie looks like:

And here it is compared to a knit tie:

As you can see, they are pretty close in size. The crocheted ties are so much faster and it makes the whole project just zip right along. From now on, any pattern that I post will include the directions for both the knitted ties as well as the crocheted ones. I hope you'll try it and let me know what you think!

Now, I have to get back to work on the calendar. I only needed to come up with two designs, but once I got started I had trouble stopping. My theory is anything worth doing, is worth over doing. Last count, I had eleven designs! It would be great if I could just post pictures and have all of you vote on which ones to include, but then there wouldn't be any element of surprise. All of the ones that don't make it into the calendar, will eventually end up here. Maybe I should do my own mystery knit-a-long?

Happy Arbor Day!

Happy Arbor Day! Here’s my latest offering. Okay, so I know it doesn’t exactly relate to Arbor Day, but, after all, owls do live in trees! That’s close enough, right? The bib was knit in Army Tan from Peaches & Crème. I really like this color knitted up. I wasn’t so sure I would, given the name, but it’s not too dark and not too light. Just right!! The cloth is also from Peaches & Crème in gold. I almost always use the P&C since I have so many cones of the yarn. Also, they supply all the pre-packs for the Dishcloth Calendar so I feel it’s only right to support them. Plus, I like it and that’s the most important reason of all!!

The pdfs are in the sidebar, but I’m also posting the patterns for those of you who have trouble with the downloads. Finally, go hug a tree, but first, please leave me a comment! I love hearing from you and also, it lets me know that someone is reading this!! You are reading this, right?

Whooo Loves Ya, Baby?

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Peaches & Crème and Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Army Tan.

Needles: US 6/4mm

2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Short Row Version
For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.
Row 1: (right side) k1, p1 for 26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k1, p1 for 15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 36 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 to end.
Row 13: k1, p1 across row.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version
This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: p1, k1 across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.
Row 13: (right side) (k1, p1) x2; k1; p29; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; (k1, p1)x2; k1; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 15: (k1, p1)x2; k8; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p1)x3; k6; (p1, k1)x3; p7; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 17: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k5)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p4)x3; k1; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 19: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p4; k6; p4; k3; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k2; p3; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p10; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 21: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k2; p1; k9; (p1, k1)x2; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p2; k2; p2; k1; (p4, k1)x2; p9; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 23: (k1, p1)x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p2; k1; p2; k1; p8; k1; p3; k2; p7; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 25: (k1, p1)x2; k7; (p1, k1)x2; p1; k7; (p1, k2)x4; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 27: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k12; p1; k5; p1; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p6; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; p4; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 29: (k1, p1)x2; (k4, p1)x2; k9; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p6; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 31: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k6; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p2)x2; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 33: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1;k1; p1; k4; p1; k10; (p1, k4)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p1; k6; p2; k1; p6; k2; p2; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 35: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k6; p1; k1; p1; k6; p2; k2; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k2; p5; k1; p3; k2; p6; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 37: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k6; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k8; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k3; p2; k2; p1; k3; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 39: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p2; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k3)x3; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1)x2; p1; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 41: (k1, p1)x2; k4; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p1; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 43: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1)x2; p1; (k1, p5)x2; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 45: (k1, p1)x2; k11; (p1, k3)x3; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k3; p5; k3; p11; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 47: (k1, p1)x2; k12; p1; k9; p3; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k2; p3; k1; p7; k3; p10; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 49: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 51: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k3; p1; k9; p4; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 52: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p18; k3; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 53: (k1, p1) x3; k27; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 54: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p25; (k1, p1) x3; k1.
Row 55: (k1, p1) x4; k23; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 56: (k1, p1) x4; k1; p21; (k1, p1) x4; k1.
Rows 57 and 58: (k1, p1) x5; k19; (p1, k1) x5.
Rows 59 - 64: k1, p1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 for 14 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with RS facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 66: k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across row.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: p1, k1 across row.
Row 83: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.
Row 66: (wrong side) p1, k1 across row.

Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across row.
Row 71: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before.

Weave in ends.

Whooo Loves Ya, Baby? Cloth

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.

Size: approximately 8" X 8 ".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Gold.

Needles: U.S. Size 5 or 6 Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts. (NOTE: Odd numbered rows are the right side and even numbered rows are the wrong side.)

Rows 1 – 6: k1, p1 across row.
Row 7: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p29; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 8: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; (k1, p1)x2; k1; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 9: (k1, p1)x2; k8; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 10: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p1)x3; k6; (p1, k1)x3; p7; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 11: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k5)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 12: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p4)x3; k1; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 13: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p4; k6; p4; k3; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k2; p3; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p10; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 15: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k2; p1; k9; (p1, k1)x2; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p2; k2; p2; k1; (p4, k1)x2; p9; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 17: (k1, p1)x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k1; p1; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p2; k1; p2; k1; p8; k1; p3; k2; p7; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 19: (k1, p1)x2; k7; (p1, k1)x2; p1; k7; (p1, k2)x4; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 21: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k12; p1; k5; p1; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p6; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; p4; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 23: (k1, p1)x2; (k4, p1)x2; k9; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p6; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 25: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k6; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p2)x2; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 27: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1;k1; p1; k4; p1; k10; (p1, k4)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p1; k6; p2; k1; p6; k2; p2; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 29: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k6; p1; k1; p1; k6; p2; k2; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k2; p5; k1; p3; k2; p6; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 31: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k6; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k8; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k3; p2; k2; p1; k3; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 33: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p2; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k3)x3; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1)x2; p1; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 35: (k1, p1)x2; k4; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p1; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 37: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1)x2; p1; (k1, p5)x2; k1; p3; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 39: (k1, p1)x2; k11; (p1, k3)x3; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k3; p5; k3; p11; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 41: (k1, p1)x2; k12; p1; k9; p3; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k2; p3; k1; p7; k3; p10; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 43: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 45: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k3; p1; k9; p4; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p18; k3; p8; (k1, p1) x2; k1.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x3; k27; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p25; (k1, p1) x3; k1.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x4; k23; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x4; k1; p21; (k1, p1) x4; k1.
Rows 51 and 52: (k1, p1) x5; k19; (p1, k1) x5.
Rows 53 - 58: k1, p1 across row.

Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

A little housekeeping

It was recently brought to my attention that I neglected to include the needle size and gauge on a couple of the bib patterns, Cupcake and Rudy. That’s the problem with cutting and pasting and concentrating on the actual pattern, instead of the whole project. I think I have fixed all the patterns, but just for the record, I always use a U.S. 6/4.0 mm or a U.S. 5/3.75mm needle. The goal is to have a nice dense fabric, so really you should use your own judgment.

I’m still planning on posting my new pattern this Friday, but first I need to make sure that I haven’t omitted anything!

Counters and Markers

Check out these really neat row counters that I found on Etsy. This is my favorite shop for markers and I'm sure I've mentioned them before, but now Jeanette has come up with her own design. I love them because you just change the loop as you knit along so you know which row you're on. I'm always misplacing my counter or if I try to use one of those cylinders, I never know when one of my grandsons might decide to just give it a twirl. (They're lots of fun for little fingers!) With this counter, I don't have to hunt for a pencil and paper to keep tract. They're especially handy when I'm doing rows of garter stitch on a dishcloth. I don't know about you, but I always have a little trouble figuring out how many rows I've actually knit. Yes, I know two rows make a ridge, but it isn't always that simple! Anyway, the markers come with different size loops and lots of different beads. The one of the left has the small loops and will fit up to a Size 4 US or 3.5 mm needle and the one of the right has medium loops which will fit up to a Size 11 US or 8 mm needle. I just put the dime in the picture to serve as a reference for the size.

She also sells these great stitch markers. You might have seen them before, but I hadn't. I love the big loops. I have big fingers so it was always a pain to try and hold open those small markers with the lobster claws. These are so easy to open and close.

You can find Jeanette's shop here . Oh, and no, I'm not related to her, nor do I have interest in the business. I'm just a huge fan.

On the knitting front, I finished up a couple pair of socks for the boys. The purple ones are from Berroco Comfort Sock in the "English Garden" colorway. This yarn is acrylic so I wasn't so sure how I would like it, but I actually really enjoyed knitting them. Mom is so busy, she doesn't have time to wash handknit socks by hand and lay them flat to dry. We needed something that could be tossed in the washer and dryer. I just wish they had more "kid" colors.

The brown socks are knit with Paton's Stretch Sock yarn in the "Taffy" colorway. I wasn't as thrilled with this yarn. I'm not sure how comfortable they'll be. Maybe they'll soften up in the wash. I do like this color though.

The pattern for both socks is my own. I knit so many socks, I just kind of make them up as I go. There are a million free sock patterns for kids, so the trick is just to find one that you like. These both have a flap with a garter stitch edge and a gusset. I don't care for the short row heels, and, because these are for the boys, I just used a round toe.

I have a new bib pattern that's almost ready to go. I just have to knit up a matching cloth! I'm hoping to have it done by Arbor Day. That's the only hint I'm giving!

Panting

I've been on a knitting marathon, which I guess is appropriate since it's Patriot's Day here in Massachusetts, which means no work (yay!), but also the Boston Marathon. All my little grandsons (and their parents) are going on vacation to California next month and so the little one needed some new shorts. Well, maybe he didn't "need" them, but it's a good excuse to knit some up! I've had some special yarn that I've been saving and I realized that if I didn't get going, he'd be out of soakers before I had the chance to use it. The yarn is from Three Irish Girls . It's Lindon Merino and the colorway is "Eire". Very pretty. I was so looking forward to actually knitting this yarn. I've heard such great things about it and the color is just beautiful. If only it could have lived up to my expectations. The first skein was just full of knots! One or two might be okay, but there were six! The yarn isn't cheap and I guess I just expected it to be perfect. I used my favorite pattern from The Knitting Siren called "Sideways Britches".

It's not exactly a pattern for beginners, there are lots of provisional cast-ons, but it is well written. I actually got to test knit it last year. I think it is so neat and it does look pretty cute on a two year old's bum! After I finished this one, I decided to use a more traditional pattern. This yarn is also from the same company, but the colorway, "Brennan" , is more tonal. It looks just like suede. You have to touch it to see that it is wool. I found that it wasn't as smooth on the needles as most wool that I use. It kind of reminded me of knitting with cotton as it seemed that I spent most of the time, pushing it along even with my addi turbos. Needless to say, I'm not a fan of this yarn, which puts me squarely in the minority.

In any event, I decided that if two pairs were good, then three would be even better. This time, though, I went back to an old favorite, Lamb's Pride Worsted. My daughter-in-law tells me that it's pretty leak proof so I decided to stick with the tried and true. This yarn just slips right along and was so much more pleasurable to knit with. The colorway is "Cranberry Swirl" and it's a beautiful deep red.

These pictures really don't show the true color. Why is red so hard to photograph? It always comes out with an orange tint! Maybe I just need a new camera.

I have to confess that I have started a fourth pair, but I seem to be running out of gas. I'm just not cut out for marathons. I still have time to make the finish line, but I won't be coming in first!