Just Ducky!

First, I want to thank all of you for the nice birthday wishes! The Baby Ripples pattern now has a pdf in the sidebar. I even think I'll be able to remember what my son taught me about uploading! Let's hope so, right? It's so much easier to just click and save, rather than having to cut and paste.

What's more fun than knitting for a new baby! In this case, I don't even know the mother, but my sister does and she asked me to make something special for a friend of hers. I'm more than happy to oblige since I like my sister and I rarely get to knit for little girls. I have so many patterns that it's actually difficult to pick out just one that I like, but I thought my sister might like this little number.

It's an old pattern from Sirdar that uses that fluffy Snowflake yarn in a DK weight. I've knit this sweater at least five times and it's always a huge hit. The yarn is kind of a pain to knit with, but the results are worth it if you want something light and airy, yet warm. As far as I know, they don't make this yarn anymore and when I heard that it was being discontinued, I stocked up.
When I found the little duck buttons, I bought all of them too! You can still find them at Joann's, but I have enough to make at least five more sweaters. You can never be too prepared, you know!

This time, I wanted to make a hat to go with the sweater. There wasn't a pattern, so I just decided to make up my own. It turns out that that isn't as easy as it sounds. This yarn doesn't really lend itself to a lot of patterns. I had wanted a ruffled brim, but when I tried it, it just flopped and had no body to it at all. Then I tried a simple hat with stripes, but I wasn't too crazy about it and when I had knit enough to really study it, I decided it was way too small. I don't think it would have even fit a preemie, so I ripped again. At this point, I had figured out how large to make it, but I still wasn't happy with the stripes. I wanted to incorporate the ducks somehow, then it hit me that I could just chart my own. Duh! I do know how to chart and for once the mathematics worked out perfectly.

The only problem is that it's difficult to do intarsia in the round, so I ended up having to strand the colors around in order to get it to come out. I know I could have done it flat and seamed it, but I'll do almost anything to avoid sewing.

For the top, I just crocheted a little five petal loopy flower and then sewed a button in the middle, just to finish tying it all together.


Now that I have this set done, she asked me to do another sweater for her next door neighbor. I really do like my sister, but she'll have to wait because my mom asked me to knit some hats for a charity. More on those later...

Birthday Ripples

Last year on my birthday, I posted the pattern for the Cupcake bib. I thought it was great fun giving everyone else a present on my birthday, so I just decided to do it again this year. This pattern is a departure from my usual "picture" bibs, but I rather like it.

I love those balls of cotton yarn with the wide stripes that Sugar'n Cream came out with a few years ago, but it was hard to find a pattern that made good use of the stripes. The idea for this bib came to me as I was supposed to be getting ready for a wedding. Instead, I remember secretly knitting a swatch upstairs while my husband paced downstairs and wondered what was taking me so long to get ready. (For the record, we did arrive on time!)

You really will need to use two balls to have it come out with matching shoulders and, most likely, you'll need to sacrifice some yarn. If this goes against your grain, then this bib isn't for you! Of course, you could always knit it in a solid or variegated yarn, in which case you'll only need one ball. Fortunately, it's not that expensive and you can always use the leftovers for something else.....coasters or crochet a chain to use for packages instead of ribbon, etc.

Isn't it neat how the colors just change with the pattern? This bib below was the prototype and I was able to do it with only one ball. However, I had to cut the yarn at the top and fiddle with the colors to make it symmetrical. Even with all of that, you can see that one tie did change color on me. I found that it really was so much easier to just use two balls and avoid all that cutting and weaving in ends. It's always hard to do that anyway with the heavy cotton.

Since I really didn't intend for this to be a dishcloth, I haven't done a separate pattern for one; instead I've included directions with the bib to make a cloth, just to keep everyone happy!

The pdf file isn't up yet, but it will be in a day or so. I can't remember how to upload them to my new website and my "tech support" is unreachable today. (Boy, I really miss having a brain that works and can actually retain information. Suppose age has anything to do with it??!! )

Hope you enjoy my birthday present! Now, is there any cake?

Baby Ripples

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Bib Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide
Cloth Size: approximately 7 ½" X 7 ½"

Materials: I love those pretty cotton yarns with the wide stripes made by Sugar’n Cream and I wanted to design a bib specifically for them. I think this pattern works well, however, if you want the shoulders and the ties to match up, then you’ll probably need to have two balls and you will have to sacrifice some yarn to achieve the symmetry. If you’re using a variegated or a solid yarn, then one ball is sufficient. You need about 88 – 100 yards when knit to the suggested gauge. Samples were done in Pinky Stripes and Baby Pink.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm
2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch.

Stitch Markers (optional). Although this is a simple lace pattern, you might want to use markers between the lace repeats to help you keep your place in the pattern. The pattern repeats every 9 stitches between the borders.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The short row method is really easy and gives you a nice smooth line. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit in the front and the back of the stitch
slip 1 = slip the stitch as if to purl
psso = pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts. Note: To begin this bib with a striped yarn, I recommend that you start by finding the first color change and then cut the yarn at that point so you are starting at the beginning of a color change. Now measure about 30 inches and begin casting on your stitches. I like to use the long tail cast on, but use whatever method you like. I’ve found that by starting at this point, and knitting to gauge, you’ll get the best results.

Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.

Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: knit.

Begin lace pattern: The first and last 6 stitches of every row form the borders. The lace has three repeats each with 9 stitches.

Row 13: k6; (k2tog., k1, kfb into the next two stitches; k2; slip 1, k1, psso) x3; k6.
Row 14: k6; p27; k6.
Row 15: same as 13.
Row 16: same as 14.
Row 17: same as 13.
Rows 18-20: knit.
Repeat Rows: 13 – 20 four times for a total of five repeats.
Knit 4 rows.

Bind off for Neck:
Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

Neck and Shoulder Shaping – LEFT Shoulder
Note: IF you are using the striped cotton, you will now need to calculate where you are in your color sequence so when you knit the right shoulder, it will match (if you want them to match!) Most likely you will have to use the second ball to get it to line up. As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 1: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 2: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 7: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 8: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 19: knit.

Row 20: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips


Neck and Shoulder Shaping – RIGHT Shoulder
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. This is where you need to pay attention to the color sequence to make it match the other shoulder. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 1: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 2: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 7: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 19: knit.
Row 20: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Dishcloth

Cast on 39 stitches and knit 10 rows. You’ll have five garter ridges.

Begin Lace Pattern:

Row 1: k6; (k2tog., k1, kfb into the next two stitches; k2; slip 1, k1, psso) x3; k6.
Row 2: (wrong side) k6; p27; k6.
Row 3: same as 1.
Row 4: same as 2.
Row 5: same as 1.
Rows 6 – 8: knit.
Repeat Rows: 1 – 8 four times for a total of five repeats.
Knit 7 rows. You should have five garter ridges and end with a right side row.

Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.

Where ARE you Mom?

So that's the email I received from my son the other day. Apparently, he actually reads my blog! Who knew? Anyway, he was concerned that I haven't posted in awhile. I told him I was just lazy, but the truth is that I've been working on some new designs and you all know how much I like to keep them secret. I can't (or won't) talk about them, so that just leaves more sock knitting. The weather has been so gloomy and rainy here in Massachusetts that I can't even take a decent picture to show those off to you either. That leaves just one thing I can talk about. A pattern for a hat and some matching mittens that my good friend, Alli, will be selling on her website here.

The design is based on her "Fishy Wishy" dishcloth pattern. As soon as I saw it, I immediately thought that it would make a cute hat for my youngest grandson, Marty, who loves fish. It's still a work in progress, but here's a few pictures being shown off by his brother, 5 year old Mickey, in typical boy fashion.

Marty may like fish, but he doesn't like wearing hats or standing still for any length of time. Mickey was reluctant to model as well, but for a different reason. He only likes RED. It took some convincing, but when I assured him that he wouldn't have to keep it, he agreed.

It's too bad that he doesn't like blue, because it's such a good color on him. Of course, I think ANY color looks good on him!

It's a lot harder to write up a pattern for mittens than it is for a dishcloth. I think that's what's taking me so long to get it finished. I know what I mean, but will you?!

I'm glad to hear that many of you have the dishcloth calendar, although I am pretty jealous. Wouldn't you think that the designers would have received the first digital copies? Apparently, we're on the bottom of the list. So much for being appreciated! Maybe next year, I'll just do my own thing, whatever that might be!

Next week I should have something brand new. It's different from anything I've done before and I quite like it. Hopefully, you will too! The rain should have moved on by then so I can even take some pictures!