Down Cloverlaine: 2009

Monday, December 28, 2009

Warning! Reptiles ahead!

Whew! Christmas sure went whirling by fast! I can't believe that it's come and gone already. I was rushing right up until the last minute, as usual. Every year I think I'll start earlier and every year it never happens. Sound familiar? In any event, one of the things that I generally do not do is knit gifts. I'm not so sure anyone really appreciates all the time that goes into a knitted gift, so I try to avoid adding that stress to my life. However, this year I made an exception so I could knit a little frog for my grandson, Micah. He loves red eyed tree frogs and when I saw this cute pattern called Ribbit, I knew I had to make it. It's a free pattern and the body is a tennis ball! You actually knit right around the ball. The pattern calls for each of the toes to be knit separately and then attached, something that did not appeal to me. I changed the pattern by making bobbles instead and I think it looks just as good. I also added some nostrils. The yarn is Cotton Classic by Tahki and was just lying around in my stash. I was surprised by how fast it knit up.

As frogs go, it's pretty cute. Of course, by making this for Micah, that meant that I had to knit something for big brother Jack. Jack is going through a snake phase. At least I hope it's a phase! I cannot abide reptiles of any sort. I even have trouble looking at a picture of them! Still, I did happen to have all this leftover yarn from the Nemo socks I knit the boys last year. The yarn stripes to look just like a clown fish. Cute little fish. Of course, it also stripes to look like a coral snake (shudder), so I decided to use it up, just for Jack.

Ewwwww! It gives me the willies just looking at it. I can't believe that I actually knit it. Still, Jack really seemed to like it and he immediately hung it on his Christmas tree. Not my idea of a garland at all!

As I said, I really hope he moves past this obsession....quickly!!

On a brighter note, I thought you might like to see a couple of my Christmas presents.

They're Franklin Habit's Christmas ornaments from 2006 and 2008. I just love them.

This year's ornament is cute too, but I thought I read that these older ornaments were only going to be available for a short time. In any event, if you're interested in them, you can find them here .

Finally, you have to check out what Jen did with my "Hay, Baby!" pattern. This has to be the cutest blanket ever, not that I'm biased in anyway! Click here and check it out for yourself!

Sunday, December 20, 2009

The Eyes Have It.

Is everyone all set for Christmas? I think I'm finally getting there! Most of my presents are bought and wrapped. Mostly now, I'm waiting for UPS and the Post Office! One of my other tasks this year was to make a Christmas stocking for little Marty. Way back in 1973, I started knitting stockings for all the children in my family, nieces, nephews, sons, grandsons. The pattern is an old Mary Maxim that had a Santa, a reindeer and a snowman. As each child has come along, I've knit a different design. The trick, at least with my grandsons, was to make something that they liked and not just seasonal! Jack's stocking has a zebra and Mickey's stocking has a train. We waited a year to see what Marty might be interested and his mom made two suggestions: a panda or a goldfish. I decided to go with the panda. I thought it might be a little easier to draw and thus, knit. It wasn't. I've struggled with the eyes so much. After five attempts, this is what the first one looked like:

He's okay, I guess, but I decided that he really looked like he had two black eyes, and NOT in a good way! Reluctantly, I ripped them out yet again, and this time I think I've got it.

I even decided to do a couple of stitches to try to define the neck. I'm sure Marty will like it. This year anyway. Next year, I fully expect him to be talking and then I might have a request for something else! In any event, we're covered for Santa this year and just in the "nick" of time!

I hope that all of you who celebrate Christmas will have a very merry one. A huge thank you to everyone for all your kind comments and good wishes. I have some really cute new designs coming up next year and I look forward to sharing them all with you!

Saturday, November 28, 2009

I'm alive!

Well, barely alive! I am one of the many who have contracted the swine flu, except, in my case, I think the whole barnyard was involved! For awhile, I was actually afraid that I might die, and then, as time went by, I was afraid that I wouldn't!! It's miserable and I highly recommend that you stay as far away from it as you can!

On a much brighter note, I finally summoned up the energy to finish up my holiday/winter pattern. Rudy has been hanging around on my computer since this summer, but he really needed some "tweaking".

He kind of reminds me of the Snowbaby bib I did last year. Must be that falling snow!

I've posted the pdf file in the sidebar for both the bib and the cloth. Every time I post a new pattern, I just hold my breath that there's still enough room for them on my little website. I really have to get going on a more permanent solution.

Finally, I just want to address an issue that was brought up in the comments last time. I'm not sure why any of you thought I would start charging for the patterns, but let me assure you that I have no intention of selling them, now or in the future. As I've said before, I just do this for fun and I share the patterns because I want to! I'm happy that you like them and that some of you actually take the time to tell me!

Rudy

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ¾" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ¾" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Emerald Green.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1: k26; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise; k17; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise; k20; turn (8sts. unworked)
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise; k23; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise; k26; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise; k28; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise; k30; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise; k32; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise; k34; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise; k35.
Row 11: knit.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.

Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (37 sts.)
*Row 12: knit.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k13; p12; k12.
Row 15: k14; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k12.
Row 16: k10; p2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p3; k11.
Row 17: k10; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2; p1; k5; p1; k12.
Row 18: k8; p4; k1; p5; k4; p4; k1; p2; k8.
Row 19: k10; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k12.
Row 20: k6; p6; k1; p5; k4; p4; k1; p4; k6.
Row 21: k11; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k13.
Row 22: k5; p8; k1; p4; k4; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 23: k12; (p1, k2) x2; (p1, k3) x2; p1; k10.
Row 24: k5; p10; k8; p1; k1; p7; k5.
Row 25: k13 (p1, k1) x4; p1; k15.
Row 26: k5; p10; (k1, p1) x3; k1; p2; k1; p7; k5.
Row 27: k11; (p1, k1)x2; p9; k6; p1; k6.
Row 28: k5; (p7, k1)x2; p1; k1; p3; (k1, p2)x2; k5.
Row 29: k10; p4; k2; p1; k7; p1; k12.
Row 30: k5; p6; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p5; k5.
Row 31: k9; (p1, k2) x3; p1; k3; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k8.
Row 32: k5; p6; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p2) x2; k4; p4; k5.
Row 33: k9; (p1, k2) x3; p1, k3; p1; k2; p1; k11.
Row 34: k5; p6; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; p2; k4; p4; k5.
Row 35: k8; (p1, k1) x2; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p9; k1; p2; (k1, p1) x4; k5.
Row 37: k14; p2; k8; p1; k12.
Row 38: k5; p8; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; p8; k5.
Row 39: k13; p1; k3; p6; k6; p1; k7.
Row 40: k5; p9; k1; p8; k3; p6; k5.
Row 41: k10; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k13.
Row 42: k5; p8; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k5.
Row 43: k9; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p2; k12.
Row 44: k5; p6; k1; p1; k1; p9; k1; p4; k1; p3; k5.
Row 45: k8; p1; k4; p1; k9; p1; k1; p1; k11.
Row 46: k5; p5; k1; p2; k1; p9; k1; p4; (k1, p1) x2; k5.
Row 47: k8; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; (k3, p1) x2; k6.
Row 48: k5; p4; (k1, p5) x2; k2; p2; k2; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 49: k8; p2; k4; p1; k1; p5; k1; p1; k5; p1; k8.
Row 50: k5; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k5.
Row 51: k13; p1; k6; p1; k3; p4; k9.
Row 52: k5; p10; k1; p8; k1; p7; k5.
Row 53: k12; p1; k8; p1; k15.
Row 54: k5; p10; k1; p7; k1; p1; k2; p2; k1; p2; k5.
Row 55: k9; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k14.
Row 56: k5; (p4, k1) x2; p2 (k1, p4) x3; k5.
Row 57: k9; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k3; p2; k12.
Row 58: k5; p1; k1; p5; k1; p19; k5.
Row 59: k16; p1; k20.
Row 60: k5; p25; k1; p1; k5.
Row 61: k26; p1; k10.
Row 62: k5; p8; k11; p3; k1; p4; k5.
Row 63: knit.
Row 64: k6; p5; k15; p5; k6.
Rows 65 – 68: knit.

Row 69: k13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; knit to end: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 70: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 71: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Row 73: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 74: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 75: (right side) k9, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: k8, k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: k7, k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: k6, k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: k5, k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: k4, k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 86: knit.
Row 87: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 70: (wrong side) knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 71: knit for 11 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Row 73: knit for 10 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 74: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 75: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 9 sts. (10 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 8 sts. (9 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 7 sts. (8 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 6 sts. (7 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 5 sts. (6 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, knit for 4 sts. (5 sts.)
Row 86: knit.
Row 87: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord, as before.
Weave in ends.

Rudy Cloth

Thursday, November 12, 2009

"Star of the Blog"

My little niece, Eliza, who has made an appearance on my blog before, recently came for an unexpected visit. This is always a treat, but especially since I had just finished making her another Calorimetry since she liked the last one so much. I hadn't really intended to make it, but I was in Webs picking up some wool to make pants for my grandson when I had this little "accident". If you've ever been in the warehouse, you know that the yarn is just stacked on all these metal shelves and they are pretty close together. I was looking at some yarn when I accidently bumped the shelf behind me and this one pretty skein of Araucania Nature Wool Multy just happened to fall from above and land squarely in my basket! It was all of Eliza's favorite colors, so I decided it must have happened for a reason.

I made the same flowers as before. I'm a little disappointed that the colors don't show up as well in these pictures as they do in real life. The light was dwindling and we had to hurry to have our little impromptu fashion shoot!

Eliza wanted to know if she was the "star" of my blog! I told her "most definitely!" It's so rare that I get to have anything modeled! Check out those dimples!

I also got to give her the kitten mittens that I posted about earlier. Needless to say, those were a big hit. I think she might be a veterinarian when she grows up, so she loves anything with animals.

They fit her "purrfectly"! (Sorry I couldn't resist!)

Thanks for the visit Eliza. You can be the star of my blog anytime you want!

Monday, November 9, 2009

The Expanding Zoo

Yes, before you ask, I am still working on my Christmas/Holiday bib and cloth for this year! However, just to keep you happy in the meantime, here is a set that I did awhile ago, but haven't got around to posting. Another addition to this zoo kick I was on!

I know "Studley" is kind of lame, but the original name I had picked out was already taken. I was having trouble coming up with anything so, as I was thinking "What should I name a stud like you?", it just came to me and I decided to stick with it! Thank you again to all my awesome test knitters!

Now, on another note, I have to vent a little about my patterns. The key word here is "MY" patterns. I think I've been pretty generous with them. I don't mind if you want to make them and sell them as long as you give me credit as the designer. Make a bunch, I don't care. However, I do mind if you take my pattern and post it in its entirety on your blog. Seriously, how hard is it to just post a link to my blog? Frankly, I'm getting tired of having to have these confrontations, so please, I beg you, be respectful of my wishes and my copyright, and knock it off! Okay, so I got that off my chest, I feel better and I'm moving on. Thanks for letting me vent!

Studley

OR

Traditional Beginning

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Pattern:
Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: (right side) p1, k1 across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (39 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 for 10 sts. (including the 2 CO sts.); k4; p1; k11; p1; k3; p2; k1, p1 for 9 sts. (41 sts.)
Row 12: k1, p1 for 11 sts.; p4; k1; p9; k1; p5; k2; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1 for 10 sts.; k20; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 14: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p4; k1; p19; k1; p2; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 15: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k4; p1; k18; p1; k5; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 16: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p7; k1; (p3, k4) x2; p3; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 17: (k1, p1)x2; k7; (p1, k1, p1, k4) x2; p1; k1; p1; k9; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 18: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p9; k1; p1; k2; p3; k1; p6; k1; p7; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 19: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p1; k3; p2; k9; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 20: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p6; k2; p5; k1; p3; k2; p4; k1; p7; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 21: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p3; k15; p1; k2; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 22: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p4; k1; p3; k1; p14; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 23: (k1, p1)x2; (k4, p1)x2; k5; p3; k6; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 24: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p4; k1; p6; (k3, p3)x2; k2; p2; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 25: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k4; p2; k5; (p1, k1)x2
Row 26: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; (p4, k1)x2; p5; k2; p3, k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 27: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 28: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; (p3, k1)x2; p2; (k1, p4)x2; (k1, p3)x2; k1; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 29: (k1, p1)x2; k3; (p1, k3)x2; (p1, k1)x2; p3; (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 30: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p4; k1; p5; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 31: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k8; p1; k2; p3; k2; p1; k6; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 32: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p3; k2; p6; (k1, p7)x2; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 33: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p2; (k5, p1, k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 34: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k5; (p3, k1)x2; p2; k1; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 35: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k11; p1; k2; (p1, k3)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 36: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p11; k1; p3; (k1, p2)x2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 37: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k1; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k2, p1, k3)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 38: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p3; k1; p5; k1; p11; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 39: (k1, p1)x2; (k4, p1)x2; k1; p1; k9; p1; k1; (p1, k4)x2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 40: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p9; k1; p2; (k1, p3)x2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 41: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; (p2, k1)x2; (p1; k3)x2; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 42: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k2; p2; k1; p2; k2; (p3, k1)x2; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 43: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 44: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k1; p5; k3; p9; k3; p4; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 45: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k24; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 46: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p3; k1; p1; k2; p17; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 47: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k12; p2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 48: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p5; k1; p1; (k1, p2) x2; k1; p3; k3; p5; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 49: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 50: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p5; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p3, k1) x2; p6; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 51: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k5; p1; k2; p2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 52: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p5; k3; p1; k2; p1; k1; p4; k1; p2; k2; p5; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 53: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k9; p1; k3; p1; k11; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 54: k1, p1 for 9 sts.; p11; k3; p9; k1, p1 for 9 sts.
Row 55: k1, p1 for 10 sts.; k21; p1, k1 for 10 sts.
Row 56: k1, p1 for 11 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 11 sts.
Row 57: k1, p1 for 12 sts.; k17; p1, k1 for 12 sts.
Rows 58 – 64: k1, p1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 for 14 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 13 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 66: k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 across row. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across row.
Row 71: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) k1, p1 for 9 sts., p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: k1, p1 for 8 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 for 7 sts., p2 tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 for 6 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: k1, p1 for 5 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: p1, k1 across row.
Row 83: k1, p1 for 4 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip the 14 sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 66: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases: All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: k1, p1 for 12 sts., k2tog.(13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across.
Row 69: k1, p1 for 11 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across row.
Row 71: k1, p1 for 10 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 for 9 sts. (10 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 for 8 sts. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 for 7 sts. (8 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 for 6 sts. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 for 5 sts. (6 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 for 4 sts. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord, as before.
Weave in ends.

Studley Cloth

Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Knitwit Alli

My friend, Alli, truly is a knitwit, but I mean that in the nicest possible way. Not only is she the best friend a person could ever hope for, but she's one talented designer as well. Yesterday, she opened her new website , which has all her wonderful designs. Although they are primarily dishcloths, she does have some other goodies there as well. Periodically, I get to test knit her patterns, and in turn, she test knits for me. It's always so much fun because we get to see each other's work before anyone else! In the past few months, I've knit quite a few of her designs, but I haven't been able to post pictures, as she's been working on her new site. Since she's now officially up and running, here are some of the cloths that I've knit. First up are her "My Earth" and "Save the Earth" cloths. I used Peaches and cream in Lt. Sage and Celery.

I love these Ivy cloths. I think they're just too pretty to use.

Finally, I got to knit her "Baby Bear" cloth which really appeals to me for obvious reasons. We have something special in mind for this design, but it's still in the works!

So okay, I know this was just a shameless plug for the new website, but then again, what are friends for? Good luck Alli!

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Kitten Mittens

Well, I seem to have survived my birthday after all and actually, it turned out not to be as bad as I thought. I got tons of new knitting books and my husband decided I should have a birthday weekend, so the day after, he took me to my favorite yarn store, Webs. The day after that, my son and daughter-in-law hosted a big family party. Lots of fun. Maybe I should just complain about all my birthdays from now on!

On the knitting front, I recently came across this great pattern for some kitten mittens. As soon as I saw them I knew I had to make them. The pattern calls for the mittens to be knit from the top down and uses bulky yarn, however, I wanted to make them from the bottom up and use a worsted weight yarn. I also prefer a gusset thumb. It turns out that once I figured out how to make the ears, they were pretty easy to reverse and I think they look very much like the original pattern. Alyssa very graciously consented to allow me to post the directions for my method.

First, you need to find a basic mitten pattern. My pattern is worked in the round and has 38 stitches after the thumb. I used Cascade 220 and U.S. size 4 needles. I worked the cuff in a solid gray and then started my stripes at the base of the mitten. If you haven’t knit stripes in the round before, there is a method for joining the stripes so that they don’t jog. Just do an internet search for “jogless knitting” and you’ll find lots of information and videos. After the thumb gusset, I did a couple more rows of stripes and then switched to solid light gray for the face. Unlike regular mittens where you start to decrease at the top, you knit until you reach the top of the fingers. At this point, I highly recommend that you put your stitches on a piece of waste yarn and embroider the kitten faces. It is so much easier than trying to do it after the top of the mitten is closed!

Here is how I worked the ears. (Remember that my pattern has 38 stitches.)
Knit across the first 8 stitches, then place the following 22 stitches on a piece of waste yarn, then knit the remaining 8 stitches. You want to knit these 16 stitches in the round. I always use the magic loop method, but you can use dpns or two circulars, if you prefer.

Knit 2 rounds even.
Next row, *slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit the next stitch, and then pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (psso); knit 4 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, and repeat from *. (12 sts.)
Knit one row even.
Next row, you are going to repeat the decreases as before i.e. *slip 1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog.* 2 times. (8 sts.)
Knit one row even.
Next row, *slip 1, k1, psso, k2tog* 2 times. (4 sts.) Before you cut the yarn to finish this first ear, you want to be sure and leave a couple of yards of yarn so you’ll have enough to work the second ear.
Run the tail through the 4 stitches and draw them up tight, and then run the tail down the inside of the ear. Place the 22 stitches back on your needle(s). You should have 11 stitches on the front and 11 stitches on the back.
Starting with the yarn at the back, graft the next three stitches together (kitchener stitch), so you have 8 stitches remaining on both the front and back needles or 16 stitches total. Now work the second ear just as you did the first.

If you like this pattern, I know that Alyssa would really appreciate hearing from you. You can also find her on Ravelry as "Alyoops".

On a final note, here's a picture of one of my birthday gifts. A pair of sock blockers for children's socks. I really like these little dogs and you can find them here . There are a number of different designs to choose from and they come in two sizes. I don't really block my socks, but they look so nice for taking photos. No more lumpy socks! As luck would have it, I just happened to have a pair lying around to test them out. These are Regia bamboo. A basic pattern with a k3, p1 pattern.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Happy Birthday...or not

Today is my birthday. I’ve been dreading it for quite awhile now. Usually, birthdays don’t particularly bother me, but now I’m 60. 60? How can that be? What is it about hitting a new decade that is so disturbing ? Sigh, I just can’t believe I’m that old. Most days, I don’t even feel old. It’s just that now, I qualify for all those senior discounts at restaurants and fairs and stores and I have to admit that I am, in fact, a senior citizen. I’d like to just stay in bed with the covers over my head, but then I wouldn’t get any presents, and I do like presents, although I enjoy giving them, more than receiving them. Here then is a present for you. Perhaps you know of a little one that might be celebrating a special day.

This bib is a little longer than most of my bibs, but not much, maybe an inch or so. I'm also happy to report that, thanks to Alli and Kathy, it's been test knitted, so hopefully, I won't have to post a corrected version tomorrow! The pdf for the bib and a matching cloth are in the sidebar.

I hope that if you do make this one, the recipient thoroughly enjoys his/her day, because, before you know it, one day they too will be 60!

Cupcake

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 9” from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½ " wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Baby Green.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row A: k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row B: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row C: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 20 sts.; turn (8sts. unworked)
Row D: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row E: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row F: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row G: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row H: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row I: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row J: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 35 sts.
Row K: k1, p1 across row.
Continue with *Row 10 of pattern.

or

Traditional Beginning

Pattern: Cast on 15 sts.
Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
*Row 10: k1, p1 across row.
Rows 11 and 12: (k1, p1 for 5 sts., p3) 4x; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 13: k1; p1; k1; p2; k4 (p1, k1, p1, k5) x2; p1; k1; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 14: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p5; (k1, p7)x2; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 15: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k25; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 16: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 17: k1, p1 for 8 sts; k5; p11; k5; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 18: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p6; k1; p1; (k1, p2) x2; k1; p1; k1; p6; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 19: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k7; p1; k1; (p1, k2) x2; p1, k1; p1; k7; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 20: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p8; k1; p1; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; p1 for 5 sts.
Row 21: k1; p1; k1; p2; k8; p1; k1; (p1, k2) x2; p1; k1; p1; k8; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 22: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p7; (k1, p2) x4; k1; p7; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 23: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k6; (p1, k2) x4; p1; k6; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 24: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p4; k1; p2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 25: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k3; p1; k13; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 26: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p3; k2; p5; k3; p5; k2; p3; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 27: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k3) x3; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 28: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p4; k1; p3; k3; p5; k3; p3; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 29: k1; p1; k1; p2; k4; p1; k7; p1; k9; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 30: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p4; k1; p1; k1; p15; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 31: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k3; p1; k2; p1; k7; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 32: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p3; k1; p15; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 33: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k2; p1; k4; p1; k7; (p1, k2)x2; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 34: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p4; k1, p13; k1, p4; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 35: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k6; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k6; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 36: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p8; k1, p9; k1; p8; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 37: k1, p1; k1; p2; k9; p9; k9; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 38: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p11; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 39: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k10; p1; k2; p2; k10; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 40: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p9; (k1, p1)x2; k1; p9; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 41: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k8; p2; k2; p1; k8; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 42: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p9; k2; p2; k1; p9; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 43: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k10; (p1, k1)x2; p1; k10; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 44: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p11; k1; p2; k2; p11; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 45: k1; p1; k1; p2; k11; p1; k2; p2; k11; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 46: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p11; (k1, p1)x2; k1; p11; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 47: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k10; p2; k2; p1; k10; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 48: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p10; k3; p10; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 49: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k10; p1; k10; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 50: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p11; k1; p11; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 51: k1, p1 for 6 sts; k11; p3; k11; p1, k1 or 6 sts.
Row 52: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p12; k3; p12; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 53: k1; p1; k1; p2; k12; p3; k12; p2; k1, p1; k1.
Row 54: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p12; k3; p12; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 55: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k11; p2; k12; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 56: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p11; k1; p11; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 57: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k10; p1; k10; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 58: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 59: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k25; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 60: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p5 (k1, p7)x2; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 61: k1; p1; k1; p2; k4; (p1, k1, p1, k5)x2; p1; k1; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Rows 62 and 63: (k1, p1 for 5 sts., p3) x4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Rows 64 – 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: k1, p1 for 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 70: k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 71: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 75: (right side) k1, p1 for 9 sts., p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 76: p1, k1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 for 8 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 for 7 sts., p2 tog. (8 sts.)
Row 80: p1, k1 across row.
Row 81: k1, p1 for 6 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: k1, p1 for 5 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 84: p1, k1 across row.
Row 85: k1, p1 for 4 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 86: k1, p1 across row.
Row 87: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 70: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 71: k1, p1 for 11 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 72: p1, k1 across row.
Row 73: k1, p1 for 10 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 75: (right side) slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 for 9 sts. (10 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 for 8 sts. (9 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 for 7 sts. (8 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 for 6 sts. (7 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, p1 for 5 sts. (6 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, p1, k1 for 4 sts. (5 sts.)
Row 86: k1, p1 across row.
Row 87: slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso, k1, k2tog. (3 sts.)
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord, as before.

Weave in ends.

Cupcake Cloth

Bind off in k1, p1 ribbing and weave in ends.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Round Two

I've been trying to write this post without sounding like a complete idiot, but alas, I don't think there is any way to avoid it. I am what I am. Remember the last pattern I posted "Gobble". You know, the one I personally knit three times! Well, sure enough, Ann contacted me and found a couple of errors. How could that happen....again??! Very easily it seems. Fortunately, they are pretty obvious errors (except to me!). The pattern was originally written with seed stitch borders, but then I decided it would be a faster knit with garter stitch ones. The right shoulder decreases, however, still had the old seed stitch instructions. You'd catch that, right? Anyway, it's been corrected so if you downloaded the pdf, you need to grab the corrected version.

I have a brand new pattern that I was going to post next week, but after this debacle, I need to re-think it.

On a more positive note, here are some funky new socks I made for the boys. It's a new kids yarn from Regia called "Flusi".

That's a picture of the sock monster on the label along with Marty's socks. He's too young yet to tell me what his favorite color is, but I'm hoping it will be red (or my favorite, green). Mickey, however, loves blue so he gets this pair:

Older brother Jack's favorite color is pink. His second favorite is orange. When I saw the pink and orange colorway in the yarn, how could I resist? Unfortunately, my camera wouldn't take an accurate picture of the color, but here they all are lumped together.

The pattern for the pink and blue socks is the Easy Basket Weave socks from Kathleen Taylor's new book. I did a flap heel with the garter stitch gusset, as I'm just not too crazy about short row heels. Marty's blue and red socks are just a generic pattern with a knit 3, purl 1 pattern. Super simple. All of these came with me on my trip to Maine, and I knit a little on each one as I was staring out at the Atlantic Ocean with Nubble Light in the background! It was nice to have a pattern written by someone who knows what she's doing.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving?

I had designed this turkey bib last year and knit it just in time for my grandson's first Thanksgiving. If I had planned it well, I would have posted it well in advance of the holiday so other babies could also have one. Since I didn't plan well (as usual), I pushed it to the back burner and decided to just wait and post it this year. However, it suddenly occurred to me that all of my Canadian friends might also like it for their Thanksgiving, which I knew was sometime in October. Yesterday, I looked at the calendar and realized it was October 12th! Yikes! I was suddenly motivated to get going and post it, so I wouldn't have to wait another year!

Starting with this pattern, my plan is to include directions for both the short row shaping and the old, more traditional shaping, so you can just pick which method you want to use. (I recommend the short rows!!) It does make for a longer pattern, but I want you to have fun knitting the bibs, so I try to make it as easy, and clear, as I can!

Don't you love these autumnal colors? It's my favorite time of year, and Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. No presents, no cards, just good food and precious time with family.

The pdf files are posted in the sidebar for now. I'm running out of room and may not be able to offer them in the future. My son tells me I'm getting too big for my britches and might have to abandon the blog and move to a website. That doesn't really appeal to me, but I may not have a choice. Of course, I can always just post the directions, as I do now for those of you who have problems with the pdfs, but it's so much easier to just be able to click and save. Sigh... decisions, decisions! In the meantime, Happy Thanksgiving to all my neighbors to the north!

Gobble!

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 3/4" from neck edge to bottom and 8 1/2" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Samples were done in Peaches & Crème Lt. Sage and Butterscotch.

Needles: US 6/4mm
2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Pattern: Cast on 40 sts.
Row 1: (right side) knit for 27 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, knit 16 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k19 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k22 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k25 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k27 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k29 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k31 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k33 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k35 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k37 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise; knit to end.
Row 13: knit.

Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version
This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: knit across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (36 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (38 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit across row (40 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k14; p12; k14.
Row 13: k13; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 14: k13; p1; k1; p11; k1; p1; k12.
Row 15: k11; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k2; p2; k11.
Row 16: k10; p1; k2; p2; k1; p9; k1; p2; k12.
Row 17: k10; p2; k3; p1; k7; p1; k3; p2; k11.
Row 18: k8; p3; k2; p4; k1; p6; k1; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 19: k10; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; p2; k12.
Row 20: k6; p7; k2; p2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k2; p4; k6.
Row 21: k7; p5; (k4, p1)x2; k3; p2; k1; p2; k10.
Row 22: k5; p3; k5; p1; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p4; k7; p1; k5.
Row 23: k6; p2; k3; p2; k4; (p1, k3) x2; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 24: k5; p2; k2; p4; k2; (p3, k1) x2; p9; k2; p1; k5.
Row 25: k6; p2; k9; p1; k3; p1; k9; p2; k7.
Row 26: k5; p3; k2; p8; k1; p3; k1; p8; k2; p2; k5.
Row 27: k7; p2; k8; p1; k3; p2; k7; p2; k8.
Row 28: k5; p4; k2; p6; k2; p3; k1; p7; k2; p3; k5.
Row 29: k9; p2; k6; p1; k3; p2; k1; p2; k2; p3; k9.
Row 30: k5; p5; k2; p2; k1; p1; k3; p3; k1; p5; k2; p5; k5.
Row 31: k11; p1; k5; p1; k3; p2; k2; p1; k1; p2; k11.
Row 32: k5; p7; k1; p1; k1; p2; k2; p3; k1; p4; k4; p4; k5.
Row 33: k8; p5; k3; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k2; p5; k8.
Row 34: k5; p2; k5; p3; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p7; k2; p2; k5.
Row 35: k6; p2; k8; p1; k5; (p2, k7)x2.
Row 36: k5; p1; k2; p8; (k1, p7)x2; k2; p1; k5.
Row 37: k6; p2; (k7, p1)x2; k8; p2; k6.
Row 38: k5; p1; k2; p8; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k4; p2; k5.
Row 39: k8; p4; k3; p1; k7; p1; k3; p6; k7.
Row 40: k5; p3; k6; p2; k1; p6; k1; p3; k2; p6; k5.
Row 41: k10; p2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; p2; k12.
Row 42: k5; p6; k2; (p4, k1)x2; p5; k2; p5; k5.
Row 43: k9, p2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k5; p2; k11.
Row 44: k5; p5; k2; p7; k3; p8; k1; p4; k5.
Row 45: k8; p2; k19; p2; k9.
Row 46: k5; p4; k2; (p6, k1)x2; p5; k2; p3; k5.
Row 47: k8; p2; k4; p2; k6; p2; k5; p2; k9.
Row 48: k5; p4; k2; (p4, k4)x2; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 49: k8; p6; k1; p2; k4; p2; k1; p2; k3; p2; k9.
Row 50: k5; p4; k7; p1; k2; p4; k2; p2; k5; p3; k5.
Row 51: k15; p2; k4; p2; k3; p4; k10.
Row 52: k6; p11; k2; p3; k2; p10; k6.
Row 53: k16; p2; k2; p2; k18.
Row 54: k8; p11; k4; p9; k8.
Row 55: k18; p2; k20.
Row 56: k10; p20; k10.
Rows 57 - 64: knit.
Row 65: knit for 14 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 66: knit across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 66: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases: All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 67: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before.
Weave in ends.

Down Cloverlaine