The Last KAL

Why do I always have such drama when I host a KAL? Last week was probably one of the worst weeks I've ever had. First, I was presented with the possibility of a serious cancer diagnosis, which required three trips to the hospital for nuclear scans. Then I went to the first ever Fiber Festival of New England only to come home to the news that my computer had died. I've been flirting with disaster with this machine for awhile now, so luckily, I had been backing up documents, or so I thought. Turns out that I hadn't done it in a couple of weeks and I've lost tons of documents, including three new patterns I was working on. UGH! I also lost all my favorite places and most all of my email contacts. I had some really neat sites saved that I'll probably never find again. In any event, I now have a new computer and yesterday, I found out that all my tests were negative! I guess in the grand scheme of things, it really isn't all that bad!

So then, back to the KAL. I'm now done with them and I'm ready to share this last one. It will look familiar to some of you. It's "Peanut", one of my all time favorite designs. As I've mentioned before, the bib was published in the November 2009 issue of Petite Purls, but I never did a matching cloth. If you haven't checked out Petite Purls yet, I suggest you do. All of the patterns are geared for babies, toddlers and children and are free! My kind of place!

My new computer has a different operating system than my old one, so I can't figure out how to copy and paste the row by row instructions for this cloth. For now, if you want the pattern, you'll just have to grab the pdf file in the sidebar. I'll see my son, who is my own personal "technie" in a couple of weeks, so he'll give me a lesson then! Maybe he can even help find some of the missing files. My daughter-in-law is pretty smart too, so she may be able to help me even sooner. It's nice to be surrounded by all these wonderful brains!

Unlike most of my cloths and bibs, I had to tweak this so the cloth pattern is slightly different from the bib. I hope you'll like it as much as I do!

Now, if you're my friend and you haven't heard from me, please send me a note so I can have your email address again!

Just Ducky!

First, I want to thank all of you for the nice birthday wishes! The Baby Ripples pattern now has a pdf in the sidebar. I even think I'll be able to remember what my son taught me about uploading! Let's hope so, right? It's so much easier to just click and save, rather than having to cut and paste.

What's more fun than knitting for a new baby! In this case, I don't even know the mother, but my sister does and she asked me to make something special for a friend of hers. I'm more than happy to oblige since I like my sister and I rarely get to knit for little girls. I have so many patterns that it's actually difficult to pick out just one that I like, but I thought my sister might like this little number.

It's an old pattern from Sirdar that uses that fluffy Snowflake yarn in a DK weight. I've knit this sweater at least five times and it's always a huge hit. The yarn is kind of a pain to knit with, but the results are worth it if you want something light and airy, yet warm. As far as I know, they don't make this yarn anymore and when I heard that it was being discontinued, I stocked up.
When I found the little duck buttons, I bought all of them too! You can still find them at Joann's, but I have enough to make at least five more sweaters. You can never be too prepared, you know!

This time, I wanted to make a hat to go with the sweater. There wasn't a pattern, so I just decided to make up my own. It turns out that that isn't as easy as it sounds. This yarn doesn't really lend itself to a lot of patterns. I had wanted a ruffled brim, but when I tried it, it just flopped and had no body to it at all. Then I tried a simple hat with stripes, but I wasn't too crazy about it and when I had knit enough to really study it, I decided it was way too small. I don't think it would have even fit a preemie, so I ripped again. At this point, I had figured out how large to make it, but I still wasn't happy with the stripes. I wanted to incorporate the ducks somehow, then it hit me that I could just chart my own. Duh! I do know how to chart and for once the mathematics worked out perfectly.

The only problem is that it's difficult to do intarsia in the round, so I ended up having to strand the colors around in order to get it to come out. I know I could have done it flat and seamed it, but I'll do almost anything to avoid sewing.

For the top, I just crocheted a little five petal loopy flower and then sewed a button in the middle, just to finish tying it all together.


Now that I have this set done, she asked me to do another sweater for her next door neighbor. I really do like my sister, but she'll have to wait because my mom asked me to knit some hats for a charity. More on those later...

Birthday Ripples

Last year on my birthday, I posted the pattern for the Cupcake bib. I thought it was great fun giving everyone else a present on my birthday, so I just decided to do it again this year. This pattern is a departure from my usual "picture" bibs, but I rather like it.

I love those balls of cotton yarn with the wide stripes that Sugar'n Cream came out with a few years ago, but it was hard to find a pattern that made good use of the stripes. The idea for this bib came to me as I was supposed to be getting ready for a wedding. Instead, I remember secretly knitting a swatch upstairs while my husband paced downstairs and wondered what was taking me so long to get ready. (For the record, we did arrive on time!)

You really will need to use two balls to have it come out with matching shoulders and, most likely, you'll need to sacrifice some yarn. If this goes against your grain, then this bib isn't for you! Of course, you could always knit it in a solid or variegated yarn, in which case you'll only need one ball. Fortunately, it's not that expensive and you can always use the leftovers for something else.....coasters or crochet a chain to use for packages instead of ribbon, etc.

Isn't it neat how the colors just change with the pattern? This bib below was the prototype and I was able to do it with only one ball. However, I had to cut the yarn at the top and fiddle with the colors to make it symmetrical. Even with all of that, you can see that one tie did change color on me. I found that it really was so much easier to just use two balls and avoid all that cutting and weaving in ends. It's always hard to do that anyway with the heavy cotton.

Since I really didn't intend for this to be a dishcloth, I haven't done a separate pattern for one; instead I've included directions with the bib to make a cloth, just to keep everyone happy!

The pdf file isn't up yet, but it will be in a day or so. I can't remember how to upload them to my new website and my "tech support" is unreachable today. (Boy, I really miss having a brain that works and can actually retain information. Suppose age has anything to do with it??!! )

Hope you enjoy my birthday present! Now, is there any cake?

Baby Ripples

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Bib Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide
Cloth Size: approximately 7 ½" X 7 ½"

Materials: I love those pretty cotton yarns with the wide stripes made by Sugar’n Cream and I wanted to design a bib specifically for them. I think this pattern works well, however, if you want the shoulders and the ties to match up, then you’ll probably need to have two balls and you will have to sacrifice some yarn to achieve the symmetry. If you’re using a variegated or a solid yarn, then one ball is sufficient. You need about 88 – 100 yards when knit to the suggested gauge. Samples were done in Pinky Stripes and Baby Pink.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm
2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch.

Stitch Markers (optional). Although this is a simple lace pattern, you might want to use markers between the lace repeats to help you keep your place in the pattern. The pattern repeats every 9 stitches between the borders.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The short row method is really easy and gives you a nice smooth line. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit in the front and the back of the stitch
slip 1 = slip the stitch as if to purl
psso = pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts. Note: To begin this bib with a striped yarn, I recommend that you start by finding the first color change and then cut the yarn at that point so you are starting at the beginning of a color change. Now measure about 30 inches and begin casting on your stitches. I like to use the long tail cast on, but use whatever method you like. I’ve found that by starting at this point, and knitting to gauge, you’ll get the best results.

Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.

Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: knit.

Begin lace pattern: The first and last 6 stitches of every row form the borders. The lace has three repeats each with 9 stitches.

Row 13: k6; (k2tog., k1, kfb into the next two stitches; k2; slip 1, k1, psso) x3; k6.
Row 14: k6; p27; k6.
Row 15: same as 13.
Row 16: same as 14.
Row 17: same as 13.
Rows 18-20: knit.
Repeat Rows: 13 – 20 four times for a total of five repeats.
Knit 4 rows.

Bind off for Neck:
Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

Neck and Shoulder Shaping – LEFT Shoulder
Note: IF you are using the striped cotton, you will now need to calculate where you are in your color sequence so when you knit the right shoulder, it will match (if you want them to match!) Most likely you will have to use the second ball to get it to line up. As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 1: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 2: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 7: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 8: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 19: knit.

Row 20: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips


Neck and Shoulder Shaping – RIGHT Shoulder
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. This is where you need to pay attention to the color sequence to make it match the other shoulder. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 1: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 2: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 7: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 19: knit.
Row 20: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Dishcloth

Cast on 39 stitches and knit 10 rows. You’ll have five garter ridges.

Begin Lace Pattern:

Row 1: k6; (k2tog., k1, kfb into the next two stitches; k2; slip 1, k1, psso) x3; k6.
Row 2: (wrong side) k6; p27; k6.
Row 3: same as 1.
Row 4: same as 2.
Row 5: same as 1.
Rows 6 – 8: knit.
Repeat Rows: 1 – 8 four times for a total of five repeats.
Knit 7 rows. You should have five garter ridges and end with a right side row.

Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.

Where ARE you Mom?

So that's the email I received from my son the other day. Apparently, he actually reads my blog! Who knew? Anyway, he was concerned that I haven't posted in awhile. I told him I was just lazy, but the truth is that I've been working on some new designs and you all know how much I like to keep them secret. I can't (or won't) talk about them, so that just leaves more sock knitting. The weather has been so gloomy and rainy here in Massachusetts that I can't even take a decent picture to show those off to you either. That leaves just one thing I can talk about. A pattern for a hat and some matching mittens that my good friend, Alli, will be selling on her website here.

The design is based on her "Fishy Wishy" dishcloth pattern. As soon as I saw it, I immediately thought that it would make a cute hat for my youngest grandson, Marty, who loves fish. It's still a work in progress, but here's a few pictures being shown off by his brother, 5 year old Mickey, in typical boy fashion.

Marty may like fish, but he doesn't like wearing hats or standing still for any length of time. Mickey was reluctant to model as well, but for a different reason. He only likes RED. It took some convincing, but when I assured him that he wouldn't have to keep it, he agreed.

It's too bad that he doesn't like blue, because it's such a good color on him. Of course, I think ANY color looks good on him!

It's a lot harder to write up a pattern for mittens than it is for a dishcloth. I think that's what's taking me so long to get it finished. I know what I mean, but will you?!

I'm glad to hear that many of you have the dishcloth calendar, although I am pretty jealous. Wouldn't you think that the designers would have received the first digital copies? Apparently, we're on the bottom of the list. So much for being appreciated! Maybe next year, I'll just do my own thing, whatever that might be!

Next week I should have something brand new. It's different from anything I've done before and I quite like it. Hopefully, you will too! The rain should have moved on by then so I can even take some pictures!

Calendar Day!

Today is the day that the official 2011 Dishcloth Calendar goes on sale. You can find all the ordering information by either going directly to the site http://www.dishclothcalendar.com/ or by clicking on the picture of the calendar's cover to the right in my sidebar.

I thought today would be a good day to post my two other designs that are in the calendar. The first is a horse, which I call "Pete" after a horse from my childhood. He lived right across the street from my grandparents and I can remember tiptoeing carefully to his stable to get a glimpse of him. I had a bad experience with a horse (well, actually a pony) when I was a child and since then, I've always been a little afraid of horses. I like to look at them from a distance!

I guess I could never have lived in the Old West. Patting a horse's nose is as close as I care to get! The cloth is knitted in Peaches & Creme Army Tan and the bib is done in Camel.

The second design is a lamb which I call "Eleanor" after my great aunt. She was a great aunt too! I don't think I've ever known anyone who was as gifted in needlework as she was. Her work was even featured on the Today Show years ago. I always loved to visit her and see whatever new project was in her basket.

Rug hooking, smocking, needlepoint, or counted cross stitch, you name it. If it involved a hook or a needle, she could do it. The only thing that I never remember her doing was knitting. I wish I had asked her why, but at the time, I was just fascinated with all her other skills. Why name this cloth after her? Well, her last name was "Lamb" and she had quite a collection of them!

My grandmother was the knitter. She's the one who taught me when I was only six and then gave me repeated refresher courses as I grew older. I have her original mitten pattern that I now use to knit mittens for my own grandchildren. Here's a picture of a little knitted coat that she made. I'm told it was a pretty shade of green. My favorite color!

As you can see, it's an old picture...... as is the the model. Me!

In any event, I hope that if you do purchase the calendar, you'll enjoy it. This time around it also includes some recipes, all in keeping with the country theme.

In parting, I want to share a photo that Denise, a wonderful test knitter and all around nice person, took. These are all three of the bibs that she test knit for the calendar. I'm sure you'll all agree that she is one talented knitter!

Don't you just love that purple cow?

Happy Labor Day!

Another KAL is now completed and I can post the pattern here, for all of you who are interested. This was just a fun cloth and really doesn't have anything to do with the season, although it is starting to get cooler here in New England and soon these little critters will be heading indoors to seek some warmth. If they try to get into my house, they'll have to deal with my two cats, Gilligan and Wyatt Earp! That said, my cats are more lovers than killers, so they'd be likely to make new friends as opposed to actually protecting my home!

I'm not sure anyone actually knitted this cloth. For three days, I was the only one who posted any messages on the yahoo group! I think everyone is trying to get in the very last bit of summer!

I hope everyone is enjoying a pleasant Labor Day! For me, this is an aptly named day as it's my oldest son's birthday. (Happy Birthday Mike!)

Do I Smell Cheese?

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½ ” from neck edge to bottom and 8 " wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Silver Gray.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1: k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1, for 20 sts.; turn (8sts. unworked)
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1, for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1, for 35 sts.
Row 11: k1, p1, across row.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern: Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. (35 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. (37 sts.)
Row 10: k1, p1, across row.
Row 11: k1, p1, across row.
*Row 12: k1, p1, across row.
Row 13: (k1, p1) x5; k1; p5; (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p1) x5; k1.
Row 14: k1, p1, across row.
Row 15: (k1, p1) x3; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1) x2; p3; (k1, p5) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; p7; k4; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23: (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k7; p1; k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p7; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k5; p1; k6; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27: (k1, p1) x2; k12; p5; k7; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29: (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k4; p3; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; (k3, p1) x3; k1; p1; k1.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p4; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k4; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p4; (k1, p6) x3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p2; k5; p3; k5; p2; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p11; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39: (k1, p1) x2; (k4, p1) x2; k9; (p1, k4) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k6; p1; k7; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k6; p2; k5; p2; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p7; (k1, p4) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p4; k9; p4; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 52: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 53: (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 54: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 55: (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Rows 56 – 62: k1, p1, across row.
Row 63: k1, p1 for 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64: (wrong side) k1, p1, across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1, across row. (12 sts.)
Row 66: k1, p1, across row.
Row 67: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1, across row. (11 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1, across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1, across row.
Row 71: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1, across row.
Row 73: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1, across row.
Row 75: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1, across row.
Row 77: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1, across row.
Row 79: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1, across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips


NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64: (wrong side) k1, p1, across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 66: p1, k1, across row.
Row 67: k1, p1, across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1, across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1, across row. (10 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1, across row.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1, across row. (9 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1, across row.
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1, across row. (8 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1, across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1, across row. (7 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1, across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1, across row. (6 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1, across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1, across row. (5 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1, across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

Do I Smell Cheese? Cloth

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Silver Gray.

Needles: U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 37 sts. (NOTE: Odd numbered rows are the right side and even numbered rows are the wrong side.)

Row 1: k1, p1, across row.
Row 2: k1, p1, across row.
Row 3: k1, p1, across row.
Row 4: k1, p1, across row.
Row 5: k1, p1, across row.
Row 6: k1, p1, across row.
Row 7: k1, p1, across row.
Row 8: k1, p1, across row.
Row 9: (right side) (k1, p1) x5; k1; p5; (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p1) x5; k1.
Row 10: k1, p1, across row.
Row 11: (k1, p1) x3; k4; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 12: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1) x2; p3; (k1, p5) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 13: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; p7; k4; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19: (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k7; p1; k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p7; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k5; p1; k6; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23: (k1, p1) x2; k12; p5; k7; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k4; p3; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; (k3, p1) x3; k1; p1; k1.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p4; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k4; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p4; (k1, p6) x3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p2; k5; p3; k5; p2; k3; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p11; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35: (k1, p1) x2; (k4, p1) x2; k9; (p1, k4) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k6; p1; k7; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k6; p2; k5; p2; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p7; (k1, p4) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p4; k9; p4; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 51: (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 52: k1, p1, across row.
Row 53: k1, p1, across row.
Row 54: k1, p1, across row.
Row 55: k1, p1, across row.
Row 56: k1, p1, across row.
Row 57: k1, p1, across row.
Row 58: k1, p1, across row.

Bind off in k1, p1, and weave in ends.

Here we go again!

Just thought I'd let you know that I'm doing another KAL for the Monthly Dishcloths group on Yahoo, starting tomorrow! I hope I remember. Having a KAL start in the middle of the week is throwing me off! I'd like to post the rows here as well, but that's not the agreement I made. I guess you'll just have to wait until it's over to get the pattern! This one will run for six days, then I get a month off and do the next one November 1st. Thanks again to all my wonderful test knitters! It gives me such a peaceful state of mind knowing that at least the directions are correct!

Where did August go?

Oh wait, I know where it went! Almost everyone in my family spent some time either in a hospital or a doctor's office! Lots of worrying on my part, which translated into lots of sock knitting! (Don't worry though, for those of you who only come here for the free patterns, I do have another one coming up in two weeks.)

So then, would you like to see all the socks? I won't bore you with the details. Most are knit with Tofutsies and are just basic, plain generic patterns. Perfect for mindless knitting. Here they are:

Whew! I used to only have to worry about two boys, but now little Marty has started asking for them too! I love the KnowKnits pouches for my projects and they're everywhere in my house.

When the boys spot one, they always ask if there are socks inside! Do you know how hard (but fun) it is to have to knit three pairs of socks all the time? I'm not complaining, but if only those feet didn't grow so fast! I just hope they outgrow this obsession by the time they're teenagers!

On another different note, some of you may have seen the sneak peek at the new designs for the 2011 Dishcloth Calendar. If you haven't, here's one my designs:

I call it "Belle" (see the cow bell? Bell - Belle....get it?). It's an homage to my great Uncle Clarence and his dairy farm.

The pattern is only available through the calendar which usually goes on sale in September. I hope lots of you buy the calendar and not just for my patterns! The more that sell, the more money I make!! It's the only money I get for my patterns, so I hope you'll all take pity on me!! (How's that for a shameless plug??!!)

Finally, I'm happy to report that I now have my very own website to host patterns. There's no point in giving you the url because if you go there, it just directs you back here! The advantage is that I can post all the patterns in pdf format. I've started to slowly change over the patterns. I've also added the frog and the starfish to the list, so you can now download those. Eventually, I plan to rewrite all the old patterns and include the short row formulas and the crocheted ties so there will be some uniformity to them. Don't hold your breath though, because it will take me forever to get caught up. I just keep coming up with new ideas and I don't want to go back and even revisit some of those old ones!

It's Over!

I survived the first KAL, but I am a little relieved that it's over. Things didn't go quite as smoothly as I had hoped. Once again, my computer was attacked by a virus on the second day. Fortunately, it hit after I posted the directions for that day, but I was one stressed out wreck all day. The last time this happened, my son installed some protection program that did its work. It only took him three hours to get me back up and running again!


I received lots and lots of nice emails from group members, which boosted my spirits considerably. I only had one (so far) negative response. That's pretty good for a group with over 7,800 members! I knew going into this that you can't please everyone!

In any event, here is the cloth for August. It's my Baby Starfish. I've posted both the bib and the cloth. If you want a pdf, you'll have to be patient because my webspace is filled. I'm still working on getting another site to host the patterns. It should be ready by next week. In the meantime, you can just cut and paste if you can't wait.

I hope you'll like this one. It just reminds me of the beach and fun summers along the coast of Maine and Cape Cod.


I agreed to host two more Kals this year and I thought I would have some time to regroup, but I just checked and realized that I'm scheduled to do next month's too!! Yikes! Everyone will be sick of me by the end of the year!

Baby Starfish Bib

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Peacock.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version
For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.
Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.

Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 13: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 14: k2, p35; k2.
Row 15: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 16: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 17: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 18: k2, p35; k2.
Row 19: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 20: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 21: k20; p2; k17.
Row 22: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 23: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 24: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 25: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 26: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 27: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 28: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 29: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 30: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 31: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 32: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 33: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 34: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 35: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 36: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 37: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 38: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 39: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 40: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 41: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 42: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 43: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 44: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 45: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 46: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 47: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 48: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 49: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 50: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 51: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 52: k3; p33; k3.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k2; p35; k2.
Row 55: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 56: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 57: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 58: k2; p35; k2.
Row 59: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 60: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row s 61 - 64: knit.
Row 65: Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 66: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 66: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: knit.
Row 69: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: knit.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: knit.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: knit.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: knit.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: knit.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.
Weave in ends.

Baby Starfish Cloth

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" X 8 ½"

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Shrimp.

Needles: U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 39 stitches

Row 1: knit.
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: (wrong side) k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 7: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 8: k2, p35; k2.
Row 9: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 10: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 11: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 12: k2, p35; k2.
Row 13: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 14: K3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) x5; p3; k3.
Row 15: k7; (p1, k5) x 4; p1; k7.
Row 16: k2; p35; k2.
Row 17: k3; p3; k27; p3; k3.
Row 18: k3; p14; k1; p18; k3.
Row 19: k20; p2; k17.
Row 20: k2; p14; k1; p1; k1; p18; k2.
Row 21: k3; p3; k13; p1; k3; p1; k9; p3; k3.
Row 22: k3; p12; k1; p3; k1; p16; k3.
Row 23: k19; p1; k4; p1; k14.
Row 24: k2; p12; k1; p4; k1; p17; k2.
Row 25: k3; p3; k2; p3; k8; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 26: k3; p5; k2; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k6; p2; k1; p5; k3.
Row 27: k8; p1; k8; p2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k8.
Row 28: k2; p6; k1; p2; k4; p15; k1; p6; k2.
Row 29: k3; p3; k2; p1; k21; p1; k2; p3; k3.
Row 30: k3; p5; k1; p8; k3; p9; k1; p6; k3.
Row 31: k9; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k9.
Row 32: k2; p7; (k1, p5) x2; k1; p6; k1; p8; k2.
Row 33: k3; p3; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k3.
Row 34: k3; p7; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p9; k3.
Row 35: k13; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 36: k2; p10; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p11; k2.
Row 37: k3; p3; k7; p1; k11; p1; k7; p3; k3.
Row 38: k3; p10; k1; p12; k1; p9; k3.
Row 39: k12; p1; k11; p1; k14.
Row 40: k2; p12; k1; p11; k1; p10; k2.
Row 41: k3; p3; k6; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 42: k3; p11; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p9; k3.
Row 43: k12; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k14.
Row 44: k2; p12; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k1; p9; k2.
Row 45: k3; p3; k5; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k2; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 46: k3; p11; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p8; k3.
Row 47: k11; p3; k9; p2; k14.
Row 48: k2; p11; k1; p1; k1; p21; k2.
Row 49: k3; p3; k18; p1; k8; p3; k3.
Row 50: k3; p33; k3.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k2; p35; k2.
Row 53: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 54: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 55: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 56: k2; p35; k2.
Row 57: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 58: k3; (p3, k1, p1, k1) X5; p3; k3.
Row 59: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 60: k2; p35; k2.
Row 61: k3; (p3, k3) x6.
Row 62: k7; (p1, k5) x4; p1; k7.
Row 63: knit.
Row 64: knit.
Row 65: knit.
Row 66: knit.
Row 67: knit.

Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.

My first KAL!

Well, August is fast approaching which means that my very first KAL will begin August first! I have to admit that I am pretty nervous about it. There are over 7,800 members and that's a lot of pressure! I keep worrying that they won't like the design or me! I'm also scheduled for two additional designs later in the year, but if this turns into a disaster, it may be the last you'll ever hear from me!!

For those of you who already belong to the Yahoo Monthly Dishcloths group, you'll get first crack at the design. For those of you who aren't a member, I'll be posting the complete pattern after the KAL is done, so you won't be left out. The KAL is for a cloth, but of course, there is a coordinating bib. Actually, as with all my designs, the bib came first!! I hope everyone will like it. It's just a fun, whimsical design that's perfect for Summer. The KAL will run for six days and, on the seventh, I'll post it here! Wish me luck!

Hello...again

I thought maybe it was time to get re-acquainted with this blog. Knitting hasn't been at the top of my priorities lately. My daughter-in-law was recently diagnosed with cancer and I've been trying to help out where I can. I'm afraid that I haven't even had a pair of knitting needles in my hands for the past couple of weeks. I guess I thought it would be more productive to just worry! It seems to have worked though, because things are looking much better now! I want to thank you all for your nice messages and prayers. I've discovered who my real friends are.

Before life got so crazy, I did knit up the cloth for the frog to match the bib I posted last time. As with the bib, this cloth isn't in the pdf files yet. I'm still waiting for my website to get up and running. Even with the new website, you'll still be able to just access it from here. I'm waiting for my son to get back from vacation when he promises he'll help me! I'm starting to have a backlog of patterns that need to get posted! ;o)

I do want to mention that if you send me an email, be sure to put something in the subject line like "bibs" or "blog", so I know that it's not spam. I have received a couple of messages from people without any identifying information and if I don't know you, or don't have any information why you're contacting me, then I don't open it.

On a parting note, here's what we woke up to this morning. The apartment house across the street had some uninvited guests for breakfast. This is what happens when you get drunk the night before, pass out, and forget to turn off your oven and stove.

Hop-a-Long Cloth

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 7 ¼" X 7 ¾ ".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Celery.

Needles: U.S. Size 5 or 6 Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 37 sts. (NOTE: Odd numbered rows are the right side and even numbered rows are the wrong side.)

Rows 1 – 7: k1, p1 across row.
Row 8: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 9: (k1, p1) x3; (k3, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 10: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 11: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 12: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k3; p13; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 13: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k18; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k1; p6; k3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k8; p3; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p7) x2; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p14; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k14; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k11; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; (p8, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k2; p2; k4; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39: (k1, p1) x2; (k4; p1) x3; k14; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k4; (p4, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43: (k1, p1) x2; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k20; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 45: (k1, p1) x2; (k3, p1) x2; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k2; p1; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p2; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51: (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Rows 52 - 58: k1, p1 across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Micah's Frogs

First, I apologize for being away so long. Life has dealt our family a cruel blow, but we're surviving and life will go on. Needless to say, I haven't felt a lot like knitting lately, but it has bothered me that I haven't been posting as often as I'd like to.

On a happier note, my grandson, Micah, recently turned 5. As I've told you before, he just loves frogs (shudder), so I thought it would be fun to knit him some frog mittens.

This is the Frog Mitts pattern from Morehouse Farm . They had a big sale on all of their patterns, so I couldn't resist this one, plus a "few" others. They also sell kits in addition to their patterns. The only drawback on these is the two holes for the eyes. I'm not so sure how practical it is to have two holes in your mittens! Still Micah seemed to like them and he insisted on wearing them home, even though it was close to 85 degrees!

I used Cascade 220 in Palm Green. A nice froggy green!

I also knit him a pair of froggy socks. Well, at least I tried to make them. I haven't ever used intarsia on socks before and after these, I doubt that I'll ever try it again! I started out using black and green, but after starting and ripping, or should I say "frogging" it three times, I ended up just ditching the black and starting over with the navy blue. I had a hard time getting a nice smooth cuff. I had much better luck with these, or so I thought. When Micah went to put them on, we could barely get them over his heel. There is hardly any stretch to the cuff, because of the intarsia. Duh, I should have realized that! On top of that, I discovered that his feet have grown significantly since the last pair of socks I made him!! Very inconsiderate of him, don't you think?

In any event, he wanted to wear them home as well. I bet it was fun trying to get them off his feet that night. I used Cascade Heritage for the navy and some left over bits of Knit Picks Stroll in "Canopy". I love that yarn! If you think you might like the chart, I'll post it. Just click on the picture to enlarge it.

I used size 2.75 mm needles and 52 stitches which gave me a repeat of four frogs.

After all these frog projects, I realized that I should probably add a frog bib to the mix as well (not for Micah, of course). I call this bib "Hop-A-Long" and I warn you that it has NOT BEEN TESTED. This time around, I decided that you can all be my test knitters, so if any of you decide to make it, please let me know if you find any errors. If you would prefer to make a dishcloth, you just need to knit seven rows of "k1, p1" and then begin the pattern with Row 12 and end with Row 62. Eventually, I'll knit up a cloth. There isn't a pdf for this one pattern. My webspace has run out of room. My son is working on getting me set up with a website, but until that's done, I'll just have to post the patterns here. So then, without further ado, here's

"Hop-A-Long":

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Apple Green.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1: k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 20 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 35 sts.
Row 11: k1, p1 across row.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern: Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
Row 10: k1, p1 across row.
Row 11: k1, p1 across row.
*Row 12: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 13: (k1, p1) x3; (k3, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x3; k1; p3; k3; p13; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17: (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k18; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k1; p6; k3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k8; p3; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27: (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p7) x2; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p14; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33: (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k14; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p13; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k11; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; (p8, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k2; p2; k4; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39: (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k4; p2; k1; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41: (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43: (k1, p1) x2; (k4; p1) x3; k14; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k4; (p4, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47: (k1, p1) x2; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k20; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 49: (k1, p1) x2; (k3, p1) x2; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51: (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k2; p1; k21; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 52: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p20; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 53: (k1, p1) x2; k5; p2; k22; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 54: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 55: (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Rows 56 – 62: k1, p1 across row.
Row 63: k1, p1 for 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 66: k1, p1 across row.
Row 67: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across row.
Row 71: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 66: p1, k1 across row.
Row 67: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (10 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across row.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (9 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (8 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (7 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (6 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (5 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.