Baby Ripples

Copyright 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Bib Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide
Cloth Size: approximately 7 ½" X 7 ½"

Materials: I love those pretty cotton yarns with the wide stripes made by Sugar’n Cream and I wanted to design a bib specifically for them. I think this pattern works well, however, if you want the shoulders and the ties to match up, then you’ll probably need to have two balls and you will have to sacrifice some yarn to achieve the symmetry. If you’re using a variegated or a solid yarn, then one ball is sufficient. You need about 88 – 100 yards when knit to the suggested gauge. Samples were done in Pinky Stripes and Baby Pink.

Needles: US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm
2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch.

Stitch Markers (optional). Although this is a simple lace pattern, you might want to use markers between the lace repeats to help you keep your place in the pattern. The pattern repeats every 9 stitches between the borders.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The short row method is really easy and gives you a nice smooth line. There are also two methods for doing the ties. One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner. If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit in the front and the back of the stitch
slip 1 = slip the stitch as if to purl
psso = pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts. Note: To begin this bib with a striped yarn, I recommend that you start by finding the first color change and then cut the yarn at that point so you are starting at the beginning of a color change. Now measure about 30 inches and begin casting on your stitches. I like to use the long tail cast on, but use whatever method you like. I’ve found that by starting at this point, and knitting to gauge, you’ll get the best results.

Row 1: (right side) k26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, knit to end.
Row 13: knit.Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.

Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.

Row 1: knit across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, knit across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: knit.

Begin lace pattern: The first and last 6 stitches of every row form the borders. The lace has three repeats each with 9 stitches.

Row 13: k6; (k2tog., k1, kfb into the next two stitches; k2; slip 1, k1, psso) x3; k6.
Row 14: k6; p27; k6.
Row 15: same as 13.
Row 16: same as 14.
Row 17: same as 13.
Rows 18-20: knit.
Repeat Rows: 13 – 20 four times for a total of five repeats.
Knit 4 rows.

Bind off for Neck:
Knit 14 stitches. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.

Neck and Shoulder Shaping – LEFT Shoulder
Note: IF you are using the striped cotton, you will now need to calculate where you are in your color sequence so when you knit the right shoulder, it will match (if you want them to match!) Most likely you will have to use the second ball to get it to line up. As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 1: knit.

Neck decreases:
Row 2: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (13 sts.)
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 7: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 8: (right side) knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 19: knit.

Row 20: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through. Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches. The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer. When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning. Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends. I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog. http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips


Neck and Shoulder Shaping – RIGHT Shoulder
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge. This is where you need to pay attention to the color sequence to make it match the other shoulder. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 1: (wrong side) knit across row.

Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 2: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 7: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (10 sts.)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (9 sts.)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (8 sts.)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (7 sts.)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (6 sts.)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (5 sts.)
Row 19: knit.
Row 20: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Dishcloth

Cast on 39 stitches and knit 10 rows. You’ll have five garter ridges.

Begin Lace Pattern:

Row 1: k6; (k2tog., k1, kfb into the next two stitches; k2; slip 1, k1, psso) x3; k6.
Row 2: (wrong side) k6; p27; k6.
Row 3: same as 1.
Row 4: same as 2.
Row 5: same as 1.
Rows 6 – 8: knit.
Repeat Rows: 1 – 8 four times for a total of five repeats.
Knit 7 rows. You should have five garter ridges and end with a right side row.

Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.