Happy Flag Day!

Today is officially Flag Day here in the United States.  It’s the day that the Stars and Stripes were officially adopted as the flag of our country.  Unfortunately, we don’t get the day off of work, or a paid holiday, but it is a great occasion to post a new pattern.  For all you patriots, here’s my Heart Flag:

This pattern started out a couple of years ago as one of a number of designs that were a special request for preemie bibs for a military hospital’s NICU.  I thought it would also be nice in a "regular" size bib and as well as a cloth.  The cloth is a little smaller than my usual ones, so if you'd like a larger cloth, just knit more rows in the border.  The pdf files are available, as always, in the sidebar.



On another note, I’m hosting another KAL for the Yahoo Monthly Dishcloth Group starting tomorrow.   We don’t usually have a picture cloth mid-month, so this will be a little different.  When the KAL is done, I’ll be posting the pattern here so check back.  I think you’ll really like this one.

Heart Flag Cloth

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

PDF file is available here.

Size:  approximately 7" X 8".

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color.  The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Delft Blue.

Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

sts. = stitches

Pattern:  Cast on 37 sts. 

Rows 1 – 11:  knit

Row 12 (wrong side): k5; p27; k5.

Row 13:  knit.

Row 14:  k5; p4; (k3, p1) x4; k3; p4; k5.

Row 15:  k8; (p1, k3) x5; p1; k8.

Row 16:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 17:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 18:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 19:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 20:  k5; p2; k1; p10; k1; p10; k1; p2; k5.

Row 21:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 22:  k5; p2; k1; p8; k5; p8; k1; p2; k5.

Row 23:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 24:  k5; p2; k1; p6; k9; p6; k1; p2; k5.

Row 25:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 26:  k5; p2; k1; p4; k13; p4; k1; p2; k5.

Row 27:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 28:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k15; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 29:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 30:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 31:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 32:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 33:  k7; p1; k12; p1; k8; p1; k7.

Row 34:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p4; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 35:  k8; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k8.

Row 36:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 37:  k7; p1; k11; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k7.

Row 38:  k5; p2; k1; p5; k4; p3; k4; p5; k1; p2; k5.

Row 39:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 40:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 41:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 42:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 43:  k8; (p1, k3) x5; p1; k8.

Row 44:  k5; p4; (k3, p1) x4; k3; p4; k5.

Row 45:  knit.

Row 46:  k5; p27; k5.

Rows 47 – 56:  knit.

Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Heart Flag Bib

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

PDF file is available here.

Size:  approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7" wide

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream (approximately 98 yards) if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Delft Blue.

Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm 

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties

                or

Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES

This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

psso:  pass slipped stitch over

k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together

p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together

sts. = stitches

dec. = decrease

dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches

Row 1: k26; turn (11 sts. unworked)

Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; k17.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; k20; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; k23; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; k26; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; k28; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; k30; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; k32; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; k34; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; knit to end

Row 11:  knit.

Continue with *Row 10 below.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1:  knit.

Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (18 sts.)

Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (21 sts.)

Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (24 sts.)

Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (27 sts.)

Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (30 sts.)

Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., knit across row.  (33 sts.)

Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., knit across row.  (35 sts.)

Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., knit across row.  (37 sts.)

*Rows 10 – 17:  knit.

Row 18 (wrong side): k5; p27; k5.

Row 19:  knit.

Row 20:  k5; p4; (k3, p1) x4; k3; p4; k5.

Row 21:  k8; (p1, k3) x5; p1; k8.

Row 22:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 23:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 24:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 25:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 26:  k5; p2; k1; p10; k1; p10; k1; p2; k5.

Row 27:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 28:  k5; p2; k1; p8; k5; p8; k1; p2; k5.

Row 29:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 30:  k5; p2; k1; p6; k9; p6; k1; p2; k5.

Row 31:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 32:  k5; p2; k1; p4; k13; p4; k1; p2; k5.

Row 33:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 34:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k15; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 35:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 36:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 37:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 38:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 39:  k7; p1; k12; p1; k8; p1; k7.

Row 40:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p1; k1; p4; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 41:  k8; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k8.

Row 42:  k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p6; k8; p3; k1; p2; k5.

Row 43:  k7; p1; k11; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k7.

Row 44:  k5; p2; k1; p5; k4; p3; k4; p5; k1; p2; k5.

Row 45:  k8; p1; k19; p1; k8.

Row 46:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 47:  k7; p1; k21; p1; k7.

Row 48:  k5; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k5.

Row 49:  k8; (p1, k3) x5; p1; k8.

Row 50:  k5; p4; (k3, p1) x4; k3; p4; k5.

Row 51:  knit.

Row 52:  k5; p27; k5.

Rows 53 – 62:  knit.

Row 63:  k13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; knit remaining sts.: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64:  (wrong side) knit.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (12 sts.)

Row 66:  knit.

Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row. (11 sts.)

Row 68:  knit.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  knit across to last 2 sts, k2tog.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  knit.

Row 71:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  knit.

Row 73:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  knit.

Row 75:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  knit.

Row 77:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  knit.

Row 79:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  knit.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog.  (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the

I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER

With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

 Row 64:  (wrong side) knit.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (12 sts.)

Row 66:  knit.

Row 67:  knit across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)

Row 68:  knit.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  knit.

Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  knit.

Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  knit.

Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  knit.

Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit across row.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  knit.

Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  knit across row.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  knit.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog.  (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

Housekeeping

I need to take care of a couple of issues.  First, a sharp eyed Ravelry user noted that the line numbering for the Stretch bib was incorrect.  (See, even with test knitting these things happen!)  The pattern was still correct as long as you didn't pay attention to the row numbers beginning with Row 63.  I have corrected the pattern, so if you downloaded it before today, then you might want to do it again.  Good thing I started including charts, right?

Secondly, I have rewritten the directions for the Garter Stitch Bib so it now includes the alternative short row beginning and the choice of either crocheting or knitting the ties.  This was my very first pattern and not very well written, I'll admit.  My goal is to eventually go back and rewrite all of the old patterns so they'll all conform to the same format.  Don't hold your breath though, because you'll note I said "eventually". 

Well Loved

When my second grandson, Micah, was born, his family was living in Virginia at the time.  I wanted to knit him a soft, fluffy blanket that would also be light for the hot Virginia summers.  I decided to use Sirdar's Chunky Snowflake.

It's a soft, fleecy, chunky yarn that, frankly, is a pain in the neck to knit.  It's tough pulling through the stitches and you really can't get up to any speed knitting with it.  I don't know if they even manufacture it anymore.  Still, it makes this wonderful light fabric, so that's what I used.

See how soft and squishy it is?  Perfect for a light baby blanket.  Now, jump ahead five years and this is what it looks like today.

A stringy, tattered, holey, but well loved, mess!  As you can see, Mickey loves it and won't part with it, even with the offer of a brand new one!  He just tells me it's his and he's fine with it, so I am too. After all, isn't this the reason we all knit in the first place?

Among the Heather

I can't believe that I actually agreed to join a KAL for a lace shawl!  What was I thinking?  I still haven't blocked the three that I've already finished, so I have no business starting another!  Oh well.  This all came about because of a pair of socks that I knit for Mickey and posted on Ravelry called "Following Seas".  I loved the pattern and discovered that there were actually a number of other patterns that I liked equally well.  The designer is Sarah Franklin and her website is Apple Blossom and More.  She wrote me a nice note about the completed socks and I found her new pattern for the shawl.  I've never done a KAL for anything other than a dishcloth, so this is all new to me.  Truthfully, I don't even know what the guidelines are, except I think I'm supposed to have it done by the end of the month.  This is what I have so far:

I'm using some bamboo yarn from my stash and U.S. Size 6 needles. 

I've used this yarn before when I knit a Shetland Triangle.  It has a wonderful drape and it's so soft!  I only hope that I have enough.  The pattern calls for 650 yards and I only have 550.  I guess I'll be leaving a few repeats out so I'll end up with a shawlette!  That's good, because that's all I really want anyway.

I'd be further along, but in case you've been watching the news, we had a tornado rip through Massachusetts.  We live about an hour away from where it hit, but both of my sisters and my parents were right in the path.  They're all okay.  My parents live with one of my sisters and they lost a huge tree which fell across the neighbor's driveway and is presently blocking his garage.  Thankfully, it missed the house.  They also lost an outdoor shed and now my father's tools are distributed all around the neighborhood.  They'll probably be without power for a couple more days, so today they're going to try and buy a Coleman lantern.  They'll be camping inside instead of outside!  In any event, it's hard to knit lace and watch the television at the same time, especially when you know the area!  I had to rip out several rows since I wasn't giving it my proper attention. 

So that's my excuse for not being further along.  I wonder what excuse I can come up with for next week?

A Boy's Request!

As a general rule, I don't do special requests.  I get so many that it would just be impossible, so I take suggestions, but that's about it.  I'm not an artist, I just kind of doodle and come up with designs that please me.  Anyway, a reader, Andrea, wrote and told me that her little son was begging for a giraffe.  Now ordinarily I would give my usual spiel about special requests, however, it turns out that I actually had done one quite awhile ago.  It was all typed up and ready to be test knit (like a lot of my patterns are), but I thought this would be a good opportunity to move it up my list.  I agreed with one condition, that Andrea would have to test knit it!   That seemed like a fair trade.  She agreed and sent me a lovely picture of her cloth done in yellow.  I decided to test knit mine in butterscotch and red.

The red doesn't show up as well in pictures, but it does look cute in person.  The pdf files each contain a chart and are located in the sidebar.

Thanks go to Andrea for helping me out!  I hope her son was pleased.  I know my son just loved giraffes when he was little.  He had a little stuffed cotton one, named "Pal" that he carried everywhere!  Pal's pretty worn out and he now resides in the bottom drawer of my husband's dresser.  It's hard to believe that was over 35 years ago.  Oops, I wonder if my son will be annoyed that I told everyone how old he is!  Maybe I can appease him by giving him a giraffe cloth!