Waving the White Flag!

Enough already!  I surrender.  It seems as though everyone in my family, at one point or another, has been ill these last few weeks.  Even my husband, who NEVER gets sick, missed one whole week of work!  I thought he would go crazy having to stay inside, but somehow he survived, thanks to the Western channel and lots of books. I'm happy to now report he's back to his old self. 

So then, what have I been knitting?  Actually, quite a lot.  I finished up an old shawl that I started two years ago and knit another one.  Neither of which have been blocked, but here's a couple of "before" pictures:

The gold is Elsbeth Lavold's Silky Wool, which is a lot rougher than I thought it would be and the "pink" is Schaefer yarns Audrey.  The colorway is "Clara Barton" which you think would be a nice vibrant red, but instead it's more of a rose.  The picture is actually a little lighter than in person, but I have a feeling that it will probably end up with one of my sisters, as I'm not crazy about any shade of pink/rose/fuchsia.   I'll decide how I feel about it after it's been blocked. (IF it gets blocked!)

Mostly though, I've been busy working on some designs for a new book that's going to be a tribute to Peaches & Creme.  The same crew that does the calendars decided on putting the book together and using designers that use P&C.  That makes me qualified to contribute.  I have no idea when it will be ready, but I know that I have to get myself in gear and get moving.  I'm also supposed to host a KAL for the Monthly Dishcloth group pretty soon and I'm trying to come up with a design for that too.  They chose an older pattern of mine, but it's not one of my favorites and I'd like to substitute it with something brand new.  The problem is that the pre-packs contain light green, so whatever I do, it has to work in that color!

I also have two new patterns that are just waiting for me to put them together.  They've been test knit and the only holdup, as usual, is me!  I'll try to get one posted in the next day or so. (keyword:  try).

I've also knit a few more socks for the boys.  Just basic non-thinking projects:

All three of these are the "Hug Me" pattern that was the featured sock in the Six Sox KAL Yahoo Group.  They have great free patterns and lots of tips.  The pair above is knit with Tofutsies and the bottom two are knit with Deborah Norville's Serenity sock yarn.  It's inexpensive, but it's nice to work with and it holds up really well in the washer and dryer, or so I'm told.



I have a couple more, but I'll save them for another time.  The boys all came up for a visit last Friday, and each of them had on a pair of socks that didn't match.  Six different socks.  Seven year old Jack had decided, on his own, to dress all of them before Mom and Dad got up and, apparently, they don't have a problem with mismatched socks.  My son suggested that I just knit about ten socks all in the same yarn and pattern.  Oh yeah, like that wouldn't be boring!  No thank you, I'll stick to the mismatches!

Gus Cloth

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size:  approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color.  The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Army Tan.

Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

sts. = stitches

Pattern:  Cast on 37 sts. 

Rows 1 – 7:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 8:  (wrong side):  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p21; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 9:  (k1, p1) x3; k4; p1; k20; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 10:  (k1, p1) x2; k2; p20; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 11:   (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k19; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p18; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k17; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p15; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k14; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k3; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p7; k5; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k9; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p10; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k4; p3; k4; p2; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; (k1, p6) x2; k2; p3; k1; p1; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p4; k6; (p1; k4) x2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p12; (k1, p2) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k12; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p8; (k1, p2) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k12; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p9; (k1, p2) x3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k12; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p12; (k1, p2) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k13; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p14; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p16; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k15; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p14; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k12; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k2; p9; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k6; p2; k12; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p13; k6; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k29; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 47:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 48:  (k1, p1) x3; k1 p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 49:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 50:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 51:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.

Rows 52 - 58:  k1, p1 across row.

Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Gus

You might be wondering "Who is Gus and why does he have a bib and cloth named for him?"  Well, Gus was my sister's beautiful yellow lab.  He was a great dog and made friends with everyone.  He was crazy about my husband and my husband was crazy about him.  He always greeted us enthusiastically whenever we would visit and would climb up on the couch to sit beside you, even if there wasn't enough room!  Sadly, he passed away last month and we all miss him terribly. 

Last year, when I was working on designs for the calendar, I wanted to do a generic pup.  It wasn't until I finished that I realized it resembled Baby Gus, so I decided to name this set in his memory.  Thanks go to my pal, Denise, for helping test knit (even if I did change it!)  The pdf is listed in the sidebar and includes a chart.

If you have pets, give them a hug today and enjoy them while you can.

Gus Bib

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size:  approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Beige.

Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm  You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties

                or

Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES

This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

psso:  pass slipped stitch over

k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together

p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together

sts. = stitches

dec. = decrease

dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches

Row 1:  k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)

Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 20 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 35 sts.

Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.

Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)

Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)

Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (24 sts.)

Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (27 sts.)

Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (30 sts.)

Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (33 sts.)

Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (35 sts.)

Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (37 sts.)

Row 10:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.

*Row 12:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 13:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p21; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 15:  (k1, p1) x3; k4; p1; k20; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k2; p20; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 17:   (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k19; p1; k2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p18; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k17; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p15; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k14; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k3; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p7; k5; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k9; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p10; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k4; p3; k4; p2; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; (k1, p6) x2; k2; p3; k1; p1; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p4; k6; (p1; k4) x2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p12; (k1, p2) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k12; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p8; (k1, p2) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k12; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p9; (k1, p2) x3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k12; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p12; (k1, p2) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p1; k13; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p14; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p16; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k15; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p14; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k12; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k2; p9; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 49:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k6; p2; k12; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 50:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p13; k6; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 51:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 52:  (k1, p1) x3; k1 p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 53:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 54:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 55:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.

Rows 56 – 62:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 63:   k1, p1 for 13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)

Row 66:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)

Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 71:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 73:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 75:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 77:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 79:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog.  (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the

I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER

With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

 Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (12 sts.)

Row 66:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 67:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)

Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  p1, k1 across row.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog.  (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.