Little Tweet

As promised, here is the mystery cloth that we just finished up on the Yahoo Monthly Dishcloth group today. 

I thought it was a good cloth to use for springtime, even though tomorrow is the first day of summer. You can use almost any color and "pretend" it's whatever bird you like.

When I went to take a picture of the matching bib, I discovered that I hadn't knit one!  Yikes!  Apparently, I just knit two cloths instead.  Fortunately, my friend and super test knitter, Denise, came to my rescue and let me use her picture for the bib pattern.  I thought I might be able to knit one myself yesterday, even though we were headed to Connecticut to visit with the grandsons for Father's Day.  On the way down, I managed to knit half of it and I was sure I'd be able to knit the rest on the trip home, only as fates would have it, I injured my hand and now can barely knit, let alone type.  With apologies to the Dishcloth Group, who have already heard the story, I'll repost my account of the "event", but you all have to promise not to laugh :

" I was visiting my little grandsons and, being funny, they told me to try and ride my son's new bike. Apparently, they didn't think grandma could do it and, in a complete lack of judgment, I decided to show-off. The bike was a little too high for my short legs and while I started out great, the terrain was rough and I couldn't manage the turn between the swing set and the swimming pool. Unable to catch my balance, I made a spectacular tumble, much to their amusement. I managed to badly bruise my leg and dislocate my finger, but my ego took the worst beating. On the plus side, the boys have new respect for me. On the down side, I can't knit! "

In case you're wondering, the bike is just fine!

Little Tweet Bib

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!  Photo is courtesy of Denise Dussault Leduc.

Pdf file and chart are available here.

Size:  approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Delft Blue.

Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm  You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties

                or

Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES

This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

psso:  pass slipped stitch over

k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together

p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together

sts. = stitches

dec. = decrease

dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches

Row 1: (k1, p1) x13; turn (11 sts. unworked)

Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x8; k1.; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; (p1, k1) x10; turn (8 sts. unworked)

Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; (p1, k1) x11; p1; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x13; turn (5 sts. unworked)

Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x14; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x15; turn (3 sts. unworked)

Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x16; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x17; turn (1 sts. unworked)

Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x17; k1.

Row 11:  k1, p1, across row.

Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.

OR

Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)

Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)

Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (24 sts.)

Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (27 sts.)

Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (30 sts.)

Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (33 sts.)

Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (35 sts.)

Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (37 sts.)

Row 10:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.

*Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k29; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k23; p4; k2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k22; p4; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k22; p3; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p20; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k14; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p10; k3; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k9; p10; k10; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p7; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k9; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p10; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p4; k11; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p10; k1; p4; k2; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k7; p1; k10; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p15; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k5; p3; k8; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k7; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k4; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p3) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p6, k1) x2; p3; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k1; p3; k15; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; (p1, k3) x2; p1; k8; p2; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p15; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p2; (k4, p1) x2; k3; p2; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k13; p1; k15; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p6, k1) x2; p13; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k15; p1; k4; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k4; p15; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 49:  (k1, p1) x2; k29; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 50:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 51:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 52:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 53:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 54:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 55:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.

Rows 56 – 62:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 63:   k1, p1 for 13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)

Row 66:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)

Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 71:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 73:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 75:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 77:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 79:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog.  (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the

I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER

With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

 Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:

Row 65:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (12 sts.)

Row 66:  p1, k1 across row.

Row 67:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)

Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:

Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (10 sts.)

Row 70:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (9 sts.)

Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (8 sts.)

Row 74:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (7 sts.)

Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (6 sts.)

Row 78:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  p1, k1 across row.  (5 sts.)

Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog.  (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

Little Tweet Cloth

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Pdf file and chart is available here.

Size:  approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color.  The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Delft Blue.

Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 

Abbreviations:

k = knit

p = purl

sts. = stitches

Pattern:

Cast on 37 stitches

Rows 1 – 7:  k1, p1 across row.

Row 8:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 9:  (k1, p1) x2; k29; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 10:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 11:  (k1, p1) x2; k23; p4; k2; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k22; p4; k3; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k22; p3; k4; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p20; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k14; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p10; k3; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k9; p10; k10; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p7; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k9; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p10; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p4; k11; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p10; k1; p4; k2; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k7; p1; k10; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p15; k1; p3; k3; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k9; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k5; p3; k8; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p14; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k7; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k4; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p3) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; (p1, k5) x2; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p6, k1) x2; p3; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k1; p3; k15; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; (p1, k3) x2; p1; k8; p2; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p15; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p2; (k4, p1) x2; k3; p2; k5; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p12; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k13; p1; k15; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p6, k1) x2; p13; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k15; p1; k4; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k4; p15; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k29; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.

Row 47:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 48:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.

Row 49:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 50:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.

Row 51:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.

Rows 52 - 58:  k1, p1 across row.

Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.



Progress?

Remember the shawl KAL for Among the Heather?  I have been working diligently on it, despite the fact that I seem to be the only one participating in the group.  Here's an update of where I am:

Lace always looks so "rumply" before it's blocked.  However, so far, it has a lot of very pretty texture. At this point, it also has a lot of stitches and I've never been more aware of it until today, when I accidently dropped about three stitches and they unraveled before I could even get some not so ladylike words out of my mouth!

Thankfully, I do have lifelines, but I still have a lot of ripping to do.  A genuine "frog" in the heather.