Magic and Spirals

Last week my niece, Eliza, came to visit us during her school vacation. I think she mostly wanted to just hang out and enjoy her time away from her brother and to play with our two house cats. We did manage to find a few other things to do while she was here, including a trip to one of our local toy stores. We're fortunate to have three independent toy stores in town. We're definitely a tourist town, so they all seem to thrive. Somehow I managed to neglect to tell Eliza about the other two stores! ;o)

A couple of weeks before her visit, I was at her house and she put on this old hat that I had knitted her a year or so before. It was the most stretched out sorry-excuse-for-a-hat that I've ever seen. It didn't help that she also had it on inside out! In any event, I decided that she definitely needed to replace it. We sat down and scrolled through lots of patterns and she picked out two, but I'm only posting about the first one for now.

It's called the "Spiral Hat" and is in this book . There are really quite a lot of nice patterns. Usually, I end up buying a book and then when it's time to make something, I forget what patterns I saw and use something I found on Ravelry! This book is an exception. I go to it quite often. In any event, the hat is pretty easy to knit. I do wish that I had knit more rows at the beginning so that the brim rolled a little more. The edge is a little skimpy. The yarn is called Mochi Plus and I used "baby face". It's so soft and feels wonderful when you're knitting it. The problem is that there wasn't quite enough in one skein to finish the hat. Because the colors are so random, it's difficult to join a new skein and make the join invisible. I ended up having to sacrifice quite a bit of a second ball to make the color sequence appear seamless. If you want to make matching mittens or socks, forget it. I'm telling you it won't happen!

After knitting the hat, I decided that she needed to have some matching mittens. I didn't have a pattern for the mittens though, so I had to come up with my own. At first I was going to try and make them with a "thumb hole" so I could keep the continuity of the spiral. However, I really prefer a thumb gusset. After going back and forth and getting input from my pal, Kathy, I decided to go ahead and do the gusset. The first mitten was looking really nice and all I had to do was try it on and fit it for the length, when Eliza asked if she could have fingerless mitts, instead.

As much as I hated tearing out that mitten, I was happy to oblige. They came out really cute and it wasn't as hard to spiral them as I thought. If I had more time though, I think I would have liked to have made the second mitt spiral in the opposite direction.

Eliza was quite pleased with her new set. Oh, did I mention that while she was here, she decided to try her hand at casting magic spells? Apparently there are websites you can visit to help you along. (and here I thought she was playing an innocent game on Build-A-Bear!) I was sitting in the living room and she came in and said "Oh rats! It didn't work!" When I asked her what she was talking about, she said that she tried casting a spell to make me invisible!

I'm hoping that there isn't a delayed reaction. Hmmm, I wonder if you can still knit if you're invisible?

Brrrrr....

Boy, this winter sure has been a cold one here in New England. Not so much snow (until lately), but cold temperatures. The kind of temperatures penguins might like!
I know this is my second penguin cloth/bib, but who cares! I love penguins and I especially like this one. I think he has lots of personality!!

I had a hard time getting anyone to test knit him, except for my friend, Kathy, who lives in California, who is always willing to help me out! I think he is a pretty quick knit. I knit both the cloths and the bibs with Peaches & Creme, as I usually do. I just prefer it to the Sugar and Cream. I think it's a little softer.

What I really like about this set is that it would be suitable for either a boy or a girl. It looks good in medium shades and pastels (in my unbiased opinion!).

I hope you like him. As always, I have the pattern in pdf format in the sidebar.

Up next, I'm working on some designs for next year's dishcloth calendar. The theme is "County Style" so that should give you all a clue as to what my designs will be. (Think barnyard!!) My problem is that I've come up with so many, that I'll have trouble whittling them down. The "leftovers" will probably end up here eventually!

I'm also going to be sponsoring three KALs (knit alongs) for the Monthly Dishcloth Yahoo group. I've never even done one before, but in a moment of weakness, I agreed to help out. Before I knew it, I ended up committing to three. Two are brand new and one is a version of something else that I've already done! If you don't belong to the group, you should consider joining. In addition to the KALs with pictures, there is a second KAL mid month that features a new stitch or technique. It's lots of fun not knowing what you're knitting ahead of time! (Well, it's fun to some people!!)

Chill Out! Bib

Copyright 2009, 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide


Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Grape.


Needles: US 5 or 6 You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.


2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib. One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps. You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row. If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track. This technique results in a nice smooth edge. Note: The bottom of the bib might cup a little, but if you give it a quick burst of steam when you’re done, it will flatten right out.



Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.

Row 1: (right side) k1, p1 for 26 sts., turn. You will have 13 stitches that are unworked.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 st. knitwise, k1, p1 for 15 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 18 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 21 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 24 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn. (5 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn. (3 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn. (1 unworked stitch)
Row 11: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 36 sts.; turn (1 unworked stitch)
Row 12: Slip 1 st. knitwise, k1, p1 to end.
Row 13: k1, p1 across row.
Continue in pattern beginning with Row 12 below*.



Traditional Version

This method requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of each row. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight.

Pattern: Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: p1, k1 across.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, p1, k1 across row. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts. at beginning of row, k1, p1 across row. (39 sts.)
*Row 12: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1, k1 for 32 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1 for 31 sts.; p1; k2; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 14: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 15: (k1, p1)x3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k10; (p1, k4)x2; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 16: (k1, p1)x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 17: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k3; p1; k5; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 18: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 19: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x3.
Row 20: (k1, p1)x2; k2; p4; k1; p3; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 21: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k4; p2; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 22: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p4; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p3; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 23: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k6; p1; k8; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1; p5; k2; p4; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 25: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k6; p4; k8; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; p2; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 27: (k1, p1)x2; k2; p1; k4; p1; k15; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k1; p3; k7; p4; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 29: (k1, p1)x3; k5; (p1, k1)x2; p2; k7; p2; k1; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k2; p11; k2; p2; k1; p4; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 31: (k1, p1)x3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k12; p2; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p4; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 33: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p4)x3; k2; p1; k1.
Row 35: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p2; k2; p1; k1.
Row 37: k1; p1; k1; p3; k6; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 39: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p3)x2; (k1, p2)x2; k1, p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 41: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k3; p1; k2; p3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 43: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p7; k1; (p2, k1)x2; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 45: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p7, (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 47: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p3)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 49: (k1, p1)x2; k9; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p3; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 50: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p8; k3; p3; k1; p8; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 51: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 52: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p10; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 53: (k1, p1)x2; k12; p2; k8; p1; k8; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 54: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p13; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 55: (k1, p1)x3; k13; p6; k8; (p1, k1)x3.
Row 56: (k1, p1)x3; k1; p25; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 57: (k1, p1)x4; k23; (p1, k1)x4.
Row 58: (k1, p1)x4; k1; p21; (k1, p1)x4; k1.
Row 59: (k1, p1)x5; k19; (p1, k1)x5.
Rows 60 – 64: k1, p1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 for 14 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 14 stitches each side.


NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER

Note: As you look at the bib with RS facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.


Row 66: k1, p1 across row.


Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across.


Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 82: p1, k1 across row.
Row 83: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)


Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips


NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER


With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 66: (wrong side) p1, k1 across row.


Neck decreases:
All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 67: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (13 sts.)
Row 68: k1, p1 across row.
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across row.
Row 71: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (10 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (9 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (8 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (7 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (6 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (5 sts.)
Row 84: k1, p1 across row.
Row 85: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before. Weave in ends.

Chill Out! Cloth

Copyright 2009; 2010 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Baby Green.

Needles: U.S. Size 5 or 6 Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out. If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern: Cast on 39 sts.
Rows 1 - 5: k1, p1 across row.
Row 6: (wrong side) (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1, k1 for 32 sts.
Row 7: k1, p1 for 31 sts.; p1; k2; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 8: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p3; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 9: (k1, p1)x3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k10; (p1, k4)x2; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 10: (k1, p1)x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 11: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k3; p1; k5; p2; k1; p1; k1.
Row 12: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 13: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k3; p1; k4; (p1, k1)x3.
Row 14: (k1, p1)x2; k2; p4; k1; p3; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 15: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k8; p1; k3; p1; k4; p2; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 16: (k1, p1)x3; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p3; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 17: (k1, p1)x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k6; p1; k8; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 18: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1; p5; k2; p4; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 19: (k1, p1)x2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k6; p4; k8; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; p2; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 21: (k1, p1)x2; k2; p1; k4; p1; k15; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 22: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k1; p3; k7; p4; k1; p5; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 23: (k1, p1)x3; k5; (p1, k1)x2; p2; k7; p2; k1; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 24: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k2; p11; k2; p2; k1; p4; k2; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 25: (k1, p1)x3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k12; p2; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 26: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p6; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p4; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 27: (k1, p1)x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 28: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p4)x3; k2; p1; k1.
Row 29: (k1, p1)x2; k3; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 30: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; p2; k2; p1; k1.
Row 31: k1; p1; k1; p3; k6; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k2)x2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 32: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 33: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k1; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 34: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p3)x2; (k1, p2)x2; k1, p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 35: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k3; p1; k2; p3; k4; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 36: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p2)x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 37: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 38: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p7; k1; (p2, k1)x2; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 39: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 40: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p10; k1; p2; k1; p7, (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 41: (k1, p1)x2; k8; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k2; p1; k5; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 42: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p4; (k1, p3)x2; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; p7; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 43: (k1, p1)x2; k9; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p3; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 44: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p5; k1; p8; k3; p3; k1; p8; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 45: (k1, p1)x2; k10; p1; k12; p1; k7; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 46: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p10; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 47: (k1, p1)x2; k12; p2; k8; p1; k8; (p1, k1)x2.
Row 48: (k1, p1)x2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p13; (k1, p1)x2; k1.
Row 49: (k1, p1)x3; k13; p6; k8; (p1, k1)x3.
Row 50: (k1, p1)x3; k1; p25; (k1, p1)x3; k1.
Row 51: (k1, p1)x4; k23; (p1, k1)x4.
Row 52: (k1, p1)x4; k1; p21; (k1, p1)x4; k1.
Row 53: (k1, p1)x5; k19; (p1, k1)x5.
Rows 54 – 60: k1, p1 across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Hat Parade

I'm sorry I haven't posted lately. I did find my camera and I haven't forgot that I promised a new pattern. It's being test knitted right now, so hopefully, I'll have that soon. In the meantime, I've been on a hat knitting binge. We're having a pretty cold winter and everyone needed a new hat. (at least that's what I told myself!)

I found this adorable hat pattern on Ravelry. It's called "Roar" and is available for purchase on Top Toppers or on Ravelry. It was so easy to make and it did look pretty cute on the boys, at least for the two minutes they kept them on their heads! To be fair, we were at a birthday party and modeling for Grandma wasn't at the top of their priorities! Instead, I had to settle for a balloon blown up inside the hat, in order to get the effect. One day, I might actually get a head form! Here's a picture of Jack's, with his matching mittens:


and Micah's:


and Martin's:


I used Cascade 220 for all the hats and just a basic mitten pattern that I've had for years. It's the same one my grandmother used when she used to knit mittens for me.

I made a little watch cap that I also found on Ravelry, but also available here.

I didn't like the way the decreases came out, so I altered them a bit to make the top more rounded.

It really did look nice for the short time I saw it. I had some really pretty blue Cascade in the stash and since blue just happens to be Micah's favorite color, I couldn't resist making the Jacques Cousteau hat. I used to love to watch the specials he produced. (Jacques, not Micah)

I love the way the top of the hat comes out. It forms this nice little subtle peak.

Finally, I think Mom deserved a new hat too, especially since she's having a hard time with the cold this winter. She is from Southern California, after all. Her hat is called "Hurricane". This is another free pattern available here . This yarn is Malabrigo worsted.

It was so much fun to knit, it practically knit itself. In fact, I wish that it had taken a little longer since I just love knitting with this yarn. Maybe I'll have to knit her another hat out of a different color. A gal can't have too many hats!

Finally, I did knit a hat for my son, which I think is really too short. He insists that it's not, but I think he was just being the polite son that he is. I wish he'd let me knit another inch so it would cover his ears. His pattern was really neat and very masculine, but alas no picture of it. You'll just have to take my word. At least there are now some warm heads here in New England. I hope you're warm too, wherever you are!