Bibs: 101

“How do you cast on the stitches at the beginning of the row?” This is probably the most frequently asked question that I receive and so the time has come to really address it in detail. Personally, I like to use the knitted on method. This is done by inserting your right hand needle into the first stitch on the left hand needle and drawing the stitch up and then placing it back on the left hand needle. The second stitch is then formed by inserting the right hand needle into the front of the stitch that you just made and placed on the left hand needle. Again, you draw up the stitch and place it back on the needle. You keep doing this until you have the number of stitches that you need. There is an excellent video here . It’s important to keep these stitches tight so you don’t get holes.

Now, after having explained that, I want to introduce you to an ALTERNATIVE method to making the increases at the beginning of the bib. This method uses short rows. I know, I know, you’re all sighing and exclaiming that you can’t possibly do short rows, but I assure you that it’s super simple. So simple, in fact, that you’ll never want to cast on stitches at the beginning of rows again. All you need to know is how to knit and how to purl. That’s it, no wrapping stitches, no picking up wraps, no swearing, no sweating. I promise! To prove it, here’s a short tutorial for you to try.

Let’s imagine that the bib (with a seed stitch border) is 37 stitches across. To begin, cast on all 37 stitches, and k1, p1 for 24 stitches. Now, turn your work around so you’ll be working in the opposite direction. There will be 13 stitches on your right hand needle that you have not worked. The yarn tail should be at the back of your work and you slip the first stitch on the left hand needle as if you’re going to knit it (knitwise). Now k1, p1 for 13 sts.; turn. You will have 10 unworked stitches on your right hand needle. Continue in this manner as follows: (NOTE: If you lose your count, all you have to do is make sure that you have the correct number of unworked stitches, when you turn your work!)
Row 3: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 16 sts.; turn. (10 unworked stitches)
Row 4: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 19 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 22 sts.; turn. (7 unworked stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1 st. knitwise; k1, p1 for 25 sts.; turn. (4 unworked stitches)
Row 7: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 28 sts.; turn. (4 unworked stitches)
Row 8: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 30 sts.; turn. (2 unworked stitches)
Row 9: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 for 32 sts.; turn. (2 unworked stitches)
Row 10: Slip 1 st. knitwise; p1, k1 to end; turn.
Rows 11: k1, p1 across row.

Wasn’t that easy? The result is a nice smooth border and no annoying holes.

Now that you know how to do the short rows, here’s a little pattern to reward you. It’s called “Heartbeat” and the directions are in the sidebar with the other free pdfs.
I know it can be a pain to leave feedback, but I really want to hear how you like this method. Every one of my testers loved it and I hope you will too!

Animal Fair

I went to the animal fair

All the birds and the beasts were there

The big baboon by the light of the moon

Was combing his auburn hair.

The monkey bumped the skunk,

And sat on the elephant's trunk;

The elephant sneezed and fell on his knees

And what became of the monk,

The monk, the monk,

The monk, the monk?

Do you remember this song from childhood? When my friend, Nicole, asked me to design a bib for a friend who was expecting a baby, I kept having that song run through my head. Now, I'm not particularly fond of monkeys, but I do like Nicole. However, all the while I was working on this pattern all I could think about was how I'd much rather be designing an elephant, so I decided to do both. You've already seen the elephant in my previous post, so now here's the monkey, which I affectionately call "Imp".

I think it would make a cute companion piece with the elephant. You could start your own zoo! I do have some new, upcoming designs that will continue this theme, but you have to stay tuned to see what they are! In the meantime, I just want to thank Nicole for making me persevere and a great big, huge thank you to all my wonderful testers! The pdf file is in the sidebar and I've also posted a pattern for a matching cloth.

Imp Bib

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Light Blue.

Needles: US 6/4mm
2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: (right side) p1, k1, across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., p1, k1 across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., p1, k1 across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: p1, k1 for 13 sts.; k3; p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k5; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k3; p2; k1, p1 for 10 sts; k3; p1, k1 for 13 sts.
Row 14: p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k2; p3; k2; p1, k1 for 10 sts; p3; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 15: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k4; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k4; p1, k1 for 13 sts.
Row 16: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p6; k1, p5; k1, p6; k1, p5; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 17: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k5; p1; k6; p1; k5; p1; k7; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 18: p1, k1 for 4 sts; p9; k1; p4; k1; p6; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 19: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p4; k8; p5; k8; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 20: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p8; k1; p4; k1; p10; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 21: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k6; p1; k8; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k7; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 22: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p7; (k1, p3) 2x; k8; p6; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 23: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k7; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 24: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p5; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 25: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k5; p1; k10; (p1, k3) 2x; p1; k4; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 26: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; (k1, p3) 2x; k1; p4; k4; p3; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 27: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 28: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p3; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 29: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k12; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 30: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p12; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 31: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 32: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 2x; p7; k1; p4; k2; p5; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 33: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k10; p1; k8; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 34: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 2x; p7; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 35: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k6; p1; k5; p2; k2; p1; k7; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.;
Row 36: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 2x; p3; k4; p5; k5; p6; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 37: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k7; p1; k9; p1; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 38: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 3x; p3; k1; p2; (k1, p6) 2x; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 39: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k6; p1; k10; p1; k3; (p1, k2) 2x; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 40: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 3x; p3; k1; p10; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 41: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k3; p4; k2; p1; k7; p1; k3; (p1, k2) 2x; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 42: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 3x; p3; k1; p10; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 43: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p3; k2; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 44: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p3, k1) 3x; p2; k3; p1; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 45: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k4; p4; k7; (p1, k3) 2x; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 46: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; k1; (p3, k1) 2x; p9; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 47: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k7; (p1, k3) 2x; p1; k4; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 48: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p6; (k1, p3) 2x; k1; p5; k1; p3; k3; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 49: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k10; p5; k4; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 50: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; k3; p3 k1; p18; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 51: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k19; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 52: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; k1; p5; k1; p18; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 53: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k20; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 54: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p6; k3; p20; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 55: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k27; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 56: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p25; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 57: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k23; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 58: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p21; k1, p1 for 9 sts.
Row 59: k1, p1 across row.
Row 60: p1, k1 across row.
Row 61: k1, p1 across row.
Row 62: p1, k1 across row.
Row 63: k1, p1 across row.
Row 64: p1, k1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 for 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 66: p1, k1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 67: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 68: p1, k1 across row.
Row 69: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 70: p1, k1 across.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 71: (right side) p1, k1 across to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: p1, k1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (9 sts.)
Row 74: p1, k1 across row.
Row 75: p1, k1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (8 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: p1, k1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (7 sts.)
Row 78: p1, k1 across row.
Row 79: p1, k1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (6 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: p1, k1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog. (5 sts.)
Row 82: p1, k1 across row.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 66: (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases: All the decreases are made on right side rows.

Row 67: (right side) k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 68: p1, k1 across row.
Row 69: k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 70: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 71: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (10 sts.)
Row 72: k1, p1 across row.
Row 73: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (9 sts.)
Row 74: k1, p1 across row.
Row 75: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (8 sts.)
Row 76: k1, p1 across row.
Row 77: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (7 sts.)
Row 78: k1, p1 across row.
Row 79: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (6 sts.)
Row 80: k1, p1 across row.
Row 81: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (5 sts.)
Row 82: k1, p1 across row.
Row 83: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before.

Weave in ends.

Imp Cloth

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" X 7 ½".

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Rose Pink.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease

Pattern: Cast on 38 sts.
Row 1: (right side) k1, p1 across row.
Row 2: p1, k1 across row.
Row 3: k1, p1 across row.
Row 4: p1, k1 across row.
Row 5: k1, p1 across row.
Row 6: p1, k1 for 13 sts.; k3; p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k5; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 7: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k3; p2; k1, p1 for 10 sts; k3; p1, k1 for 13 sts.
Row 8: p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k2; p3; k2; p1, k1 for 10 sts; p3; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 9: k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k4; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.; p2; k4; p1, k1 for 13 sts.
Row 10: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p6; k1, p5; k1, p6; k1, p5; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 11: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k5; p1; k6; p1; k5; p1; k7; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 12: p1, k1 for 4 sts; p9; k1; p4; k1; p6; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p4; k8; p5; k8; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 14: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p8; k1; p4; k1; p10; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 15: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k6; p1; k8; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k7; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 16: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p7; (k1, p3) 2x; k8; p6; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 17: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k7; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k5; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 18: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p5; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p8; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 19: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k5; p1; k10; (p1, k3) 2x; p1; k4; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 20: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; (k1, p3) 2x; k1; p4; k4; p3; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 21: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 22: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p3; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k1; p2; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 23: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k12; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 24: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p12; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 25: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k12; p1; k6; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 26: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 2x; p7; k1; p4; k2; p5; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 27: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k4; p1; k10; p1; k8; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 28: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 2x; p7; k1; p1; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 29: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k6; p1; k5; p2; k2; p1; k7; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.;
Row 30: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 2x; p3; k4; p5; k5; p6; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 31: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k7; p1; k9; p1; k3; (p1, k2) x2; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 32: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 3x; p3; k1; p2; (k1, p6) 2x; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 33: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k6; p1; k10; p1; k3; (p1, k2) 2x; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 34: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 3x; p3; k1; p10; k1; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 35: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k3; p4; k2; p1; k7; p1; k3; (p1, k2) 2x; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 36: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p2, k1) 3x; p3; k1; p10; k1; p3; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 37: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k1; p3; k2; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 38: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; (p3, k1) 3x; p2; k3; p1; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 39: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k4; p4; k7; (p1, k3) 2x; p1; k2; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 40: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; k1; (p3, k1) 2x; p9; k1; p4; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 41: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k2; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k7; (p1, k3) 2x; p1; k4; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 42: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p6; (k1, p3) 2x; k1; p5; k1; p3; k3; p2; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 43: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k10; p5; k4; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 44: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; k3; p3 k1; p18; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 45: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k19; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 46: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p4; k1; p5; k1; p18; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 47: k1, p1 for 4 sts.; k20; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 48: p1, k1 for 4 sts.; p6; k3; p20; k1, p1 for 5 sts.
Row 49: k1, p1 for 6 sts.; k27; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
Row 50: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p25; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 51: k1, p1 for 8 sts.; k23; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 52: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p21; k1, p1 for 9 sts.
Row 53: k1, p1 across row.
Row 54: p1, k1 across row.
Row 55: k1, p1 across row.
Row 56: p1, k1 across row.
Row 57: k1, p1 across row.
Row 58: p1, k1 across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 ribbing and weave in ends.

Secret Revealed!

A while ago, I mentioned that I had a secret project that I couldn't discuss, but now I can tell you that I was asked to contribute a design for the new online magazine Petite Purls . The Fall issue went live this past Tuesday. If you haven't heard about it yet, it's a magazine along the lines of Knitty , except that all the patterns are devoted to babies, toddlers and children. The patterns are all free and are available through their website. My pattern is an elephant bib which I named "Peanut". Here he is in Rose Pink:

And here he is in Silver Gray, both by Peaches & Creme.

In the magazine, it's modeled by the sweet daughter of one of the editors. They graciously arranged for all the photography. Well, except for my picture which was provided courtesy of my husband. Fortunately, it's in black and white so you can't see all my gray hairs!

Soo-ee!

Calling all pig lovers! Earlier this year, I guess I was on a barnyard kick and started designing some farm animals. You could put this set together with the Hay, Baby! set and have a farm of your own. Granted, it will be a small farm, since I stopped after two designs!

Also beginning with this pattern, I have changed the way I've written the directions for making the shoulders. I think it's much clearer and will help those of you who have had problems in the past. And, Tim, if you're reading this, you'll be disappointed to know that this time around, my test knitters have thoroughly checked the pattern. (For those of you who don't know, Tim, is my guardian angel who always seems to find an error!)

The pdf is listed in the sidebar, and, as always, I'm also posting the line by line directions.

Pig Out!

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Shrimp.

Needles: US 6/4mm
2 double pointed needles for the I-cords

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. I prefer to use the knitted cast on method, but you can use any method that you like. Just remember to keep the stitches tight. The ties are done by making I-cords. It’s helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (38 sts.)
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: k10; p1; k15; p1; k11.
Row 14: k11; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 15: k9; p1; k17; p1; k10.
Row 16: k8; p1; k1; p2; k15; p2; k1; p1; k7.
Row 17: k11; p1; k13; p1; k12.
Row 18: k6; p1; k1; p4; k1; p13; k1; p4; k1; p1; k5.
Row 19: k10; p2; k13; p2; k11.
Row 20: k5; (p2, k1)x2; p1; k1; p13; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k5.
Row 21: k7; p2; k3; p1; k11; p1; k3; p2; k8.
Row 22: k5; p3; k1; p4; k1; p11; k1; p4; k1; p2; k5.
Row 23: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k8.
Row 24: k5; p4; k1; p5; k1; p7; k1; p5; k1; p3; k5.
Row 25: k8; p1; k19; p1; k9.
Row 26: k5; p5; k1; p17; k1; p4; k5.
Row 27: k10; p1; k4; p7; k4; p1; k11.
Row 28: k5; p7; k2; p1; k1; p7; k1; p1; k2; p6; k5.
Row 29: k13; p1; k9; p1; k14.
Row 30: k5; p8; k1; p10; k1; p8; k5.
Row 31: k12; p1; k11; p1; k13.
Row 32: k5; p7; k1; p5; k3; p4; k1; p7; k5.
Row 33: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k12.
Row 34: k5; p6; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 35: k11; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p4 (k1, p1)x3; k1; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 37: k11; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 38: k5; p6; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 39: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k11.
Row 40: k5; p6; k1; p6; k3; p5; k1; p6; k5.
Row 41: k11; p1; k14; p1; k11.
Row 42: k5; p6; k1; p14; k1; p6; k5.
Row 43: k11; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k2; p1; k3; p2; k7.
Row 44: k5; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p12; k1; p7; k5.
Row 45: (k12, p1)x2; k2; p1; k1; p1; k7.
Row 46: k5; p2; k1; p2; k2; p1; k1; p10; k1; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 47: k8; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 48: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p1; k2; p2; k1; p3; k5.
Row 49: k8; p1; k6; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k8.
Row 50: k5; p4; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; p3; k5.
Row 51: k8; p1; k5; p1; k1; p2; k4; p1; k3; p2; k10.
Row 52: k5; p11; k4; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k5.
Row 53: k10; p3; k25:
Row 54: k7; p24; k7.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k9; p20; k9.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k11; p16; k11.
Rows 59 – 66: knit.
Row 67: knit 13 sts. Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 68: knit across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 69: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.


Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Repeat rows 73 and 74 until 5 stitches remain.
Next row: (right side): Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, k2 tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 68: knit across row.

Neck decreases: All the decreases are made on right side rows.
Row 69: (right side) knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (12 sts.)
Row 70: knit.
Row 71: knit to last 2 sts., k2tog. (11 sts.)
Row 72: knit.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 73: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; knit to end. (10 sts.)
Row 74: knit.
Repeat rows 73 and 74 until 5 stitches remain.
Next row: (right side) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; k2tog. (3 sts.)

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord as before.
Weave in ends.

Pig Out! Cloth

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8" x 8 1/4"

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton. Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Brick Red.

Needles: US 6/4mm

Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease

Pattern: Cast on 38 sts.
Rows 1- 8: knit.
Row 9: k10; p1; k15; p1; k11.
Row 10: k11; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 11: k9; p1; k17; p1; k10.
Row 12: k8; p1; k1; p2; k15; p2; k1; p1; k7.
Row 13: k11; p1; k13; p1; k12.
Row 14: k6; p1; k1; p4; k1; p13; k1; p4; k1; p1; k5.
Row 15: k10; p2; k13; p2; k11.
Row 16: k5; (p2, k1)x2; p1; k1; p13; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k5.
Row 17: k7; p2; k3; p1; k11; p1; k3; p2; k8.
Row 18: k5; p3; k1; p4; k1; p11; k1; p4; k1; p2; k5.
Row 19: k7; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k8.
Row 20: k5; p4; k1; p5; k1; p7; k1; p5; k1; p3; k5.
Row 21: k8; p1; k19; p1; k9.
Row 22: k5; p5; k1; p17; k1; p4; k5.
Row 23: k10; p1; k4; p7; k4; p1; k11.
Row 24: k5; p7; k2; p1; k1; p7; k1; p1; k2; p6; k5.
Row 25: k13; p1; k9; p1; k14.
Row 26: k5; p8; k1; p10; k1; p8; k5.
Row 27: k12; p1; k11; p1; k13.
Row 28: k5; p7; k1; p5; k3; p4; k1; p7; k5.
Row 29: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k12.
Row 30: k5; p6; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 31: k11; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 32: k5; p6; k1; p4 (k1, p1)x3; k1; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 33: k11; p1; k3; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 34: k5; p6; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p6; k5.
Row 35: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p6; k3; p5; k1; p6; k5.
Row 37: k11; p1; k14; p1; k11.
Row 38: k5; p6; k1; p14; k1; p6; k5.
Row 39: k11; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k2; p1; k3; p2; k7.
Row 40: k5; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p12; k1; p7; k5.
Row 41: (k12, p1)x2; k2; p1; k1; p1; k7.
Row 42: k5; p2; k1; p2; k2; p1; k1; p10; k1; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 43: k8; (p1, k1)x3; p1; k9; p1; k5; p1; k7.
Row 44: k5; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p1; k2; p2; k1; p3; k5.
Row 45: k8; p1; k6; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k8.
Row 46: k5; p4; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p6; k1; p3; k5.
Row 47: k8; p1; k5; p1; k1; p2; k4; p1; k3; p2; k10.
Row 48: k5; p11; k4; p4; k1; p3; k1; p4; k5.
Row 49: k10; p3; k25:
Row 50: k7; p24; k7.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k9; p20; k9.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k11; p16; k11.
Rows 55 - 63: knit.

Bind off and weave in ends.