Here is the last design that I did for the 2010 Dishcloth Calendar. I meant to post it earlier, but unfortunately, my mom had a possible heart attack this past week and, needless to say, I've been busy travelling to and from the hospital. She seems to be fine, but is facing a battery of tests to get to the exact cause. She's strong and has some wonderful doctors, so I'm sure we'll have a positive outcome. Anyway, this guy is actually the first pattern that I did, but I wasn't sure I was going to include him. In the end, I decided that he really does fit in well with the other two designs.
I had a hard time coming up with a name, so I just call it "Puppy Love". When he's done in red, or in this case, persimmon, I think he kind of resembles Clifford the Big Red Dog, although that wasn't my intention!
It's difficult to come up with a dog design that will appeal to most dog lovers, as they usually have a favorite or specific breed. Someone has to stand up for the mutts though, and hopefully, this guy will suffice.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Saturday, August 22, 2009
2010 Dishcloth Calendar
Those of you who follow my blog, probably already know that I was asked to contribute some patterns to this year's Dishcloth Calendar and you might have even seen pictures of the designs on the calendar's blog. Then again, maybe you haven't seen them and since the calendar is now ready for pre-orders, I thought I would post a couple of pictures. These are my Kennel Club Pup and Kitty cloths. Since this year's calendar is focusing on Gifts from the Heart, I set them in heart frames. Most little ones (and some big ones) love puppies and kittens so I thought they would be appropriate in keeping with this year's theme.
Of course, I also had to do matching bibs!
The cost for this year's calendar is $16.00 for the download version and, I believe, $23.00 for the printed version, which includes shipping (this might change slightly). Since there are 38 patterns, that amounts to about $0.60 per pattern for the printed version and $0.43 per pattern for the download version. I think that's a pretty good deal! Of course, there are also lots of extras included. Considering that most calendars only have one pattern per month, its a good value.
The calendar also has a new home this year.... it's very own website! You should check it out to get all the inside information. Right now, there is even a KAL ongoing. You just need to click on the "Blog Home" tab to gain access. I put a link in my sidebar so there's no excuse not to find it!!
I do have one other pattern that will be in the calendar, but I'll save that for next time!
Of course, I also had to do matching bibs!
The cost for this year's calendar is $16.00 for the download version and, I believe, $23.00 for the printed version, which includes shipping (this might change slightly). Since there are 38 patterns, that amounts to about $0.60 per pattern for the printed version and $0.43 per pattern for the download version. I think that's a pretty good deal! Of course, there are also lots of extras included. Considering that most calendars only have one pattern per month, its a good value.
The calendar also has a new home this year.... it's very own website! You should check it out to get all the inside information. Right now, there is even a KAL ongoing. You just need to click on the "Blog Home" tab to gain access. I put a link in my sidebar so there's no excuse not to find it!!
I do have one other pattern that will be in the calendar, but I'll save that for next time!
Friday, August 14, 2009
Anyone for Socks?
I'm so excited!! Look what came in the mail the other day:
This is Kathleen Taylor's new book. It wasn't supposed to be published until September 1st, but it came early. I ordered it from Amazon as soon as I heard it was available for pre-order, which was months ago. I never buy books sight unseen, but I made an exception this time, because I just love all her patterns. It was a good decision too, as there are so many to choose from. Alot of the patterns range in size from toddlers to men. I'm always looking for neat socks to make for the grandsons, so this really is a welcome addition. I do knit other things than bibs, you know!
These are so nice to use and not just with socks. They come in a variety of sizes. I love that the loops are made of some sort of plastic. It kind of reminds me of fishing line. (You can tell that I don't do any beading, because there probably is a name for this stuff.) Anyway, they don't distort the stitches or snag. They're lightweight and colorful. It's also so easy to just slip them with that nice loop. I have some really fancy markers with Swarovski crystals and sterling silver, but since I discovered these babies, they're all I use. You can find them here on Etsy. I notice that they just happen to be on sale too.
Well, didn't this just sound like a sales pitch! I'm always happy to be an enabler!
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Hay, I did it again....
Well, once again I made a typo in the directions for a bib. This is disturbing on two levels. First, it's the same stupid mistake I've made before and second, my "pal", Tim, is the same person who found it. The man has eagle eyes, which is good, but he makes me so jumpy! Every time I see a comment from him, I just hold my breath wondering what I did wrong this time! He's even changed the way I write my patterns. Now, if I do a pattern with a seed stitch border, I have to make sure that the rows all begin with a knit stitch, if possible. This is because Tim doesn't like to start a row with a purl stitch! He's like this school teacher hanging over my shoulder, making sure I don't screw up. Don't get me wrong, he's very polite, but he just makes me so nervous! That said, thank goodness he's around.
Anyway, if you downloaded the "Hay, Baby!" bib before 11:00 P.M. EST on August 5, 2009, Rows 10 and 11 need to be corrected. The cast on stitches at the beginning of these rows should be two, not three. (At least the stitch count in the parentheses is correct.)
Now, I'm off to write on the chalkboard that "I'm sorry and I'll do my best not to let it happen again!" about 100 times!
Anyway, if you downloaded the "Hay, Baby!" bib before 11:00 P.M. EST on August 5, 2009, Rows 10 and 11 need to be corrected. The cast on stitches at the beginning of these rows should be two, not three. (At least the stitch count in the parentheses is correct.)
Now, I'm off to write on the chalkboard that "I'm sorry and I'll do my best not to let it happen again!" about 100 times!
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Secrets
Even though it's been quite awhile since I've posted anything, that doesn't mean that I haven't been idle. Far from it. Unfortunately, I can't share exactly what I've been working on. I have two super sized secrets!! (My test knitters know, only they've been sworn to secrecy!) I also have been busy making more shorts from my grandson and working on a few new patterns that I can share. For instance, here's a cow that I did awhile ago but I just didn't get around to posting. It's a relatively fast knit as the borders are all done in garter stitch. I would have shown it sooner, but, as with all my projects, I put off doing a matching cloth. Sigh, I don't know why I find it such a chore to knit them. They're faster than the bibs, but still, I drag my feet. Anyway, I hope you like it.
Chocolate milk does come from brown cows, right?
Chocolate milk does come from brown cows, right?
Hay, Baby!
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 8 ½" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Celery.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.
Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p11; k13.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k11; p15; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p19; k9.
Row 17: knit.
Row18: k8; p21; k8.
Row 19: k13; p11; k13;
Row 20: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 21: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 22: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 23: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 24: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 25: k10; p1; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p1; k10.
Row 26: k5; p5; k1; p3; k2; p5; k2; p3; k1; p5; k5.
Row 27: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 28: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 29: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 30: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 31: k13; p1; k9; p1; k13.
Row 32: k5; p9; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 33: k13; p1; k1; p7; k1; p1; k13.
Row 34: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 35: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 37: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 38: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 39: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 40: k5; p4; k3; p13; k3; p4; k5.
Row 41: k8; p1; k2; p1; k13; p1; k2; p1; k8.
Row 42: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p13; k1; p3; k1; p2; k5.
Row 43: k6; p1; k5; p1; k11; p1; k5; p1; k6.
Row 44: k5; p1; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; p6; k1; p1; k5.
Row 45: k7; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k4; p1; k7.
Row 46: k5; p3; (k1, p2) X 2; k9; (p2, k1) X 2; p3; k5.
Row 47: k9; p2; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p2; k9.
Row 48: k5; p8; k3; p5; k3; p8; k5.
Row 49: k13; p2; k7; p2; k13.
Row 50: k5; p8; k2; p7; k2; p8; k5.
Row 51: k14; p2; k5; p2; k14.
Row 52: k7; p23; k7.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k9; p19; k9.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k11; p15; k11.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k13; p11; k13.
Rows 59 – 64: knit.
Shoulder Shaping:
Row 65: knit 13 stitches; bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise, and knit the remaining stitches. You should have 13 sts. on each side.
Next row: knit across and place first 13 stitches on a holder. Work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:
Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.
(Tip for right shoulder) Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row (right side), decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)
Size: approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 8 ½" wide
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Celery.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.
Pattern: Cast on 11 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (14 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (17 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (20 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (23 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (26 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (29 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (31 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (33 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (35 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (37 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p11; k13.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k11; p15; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p19; k9.
Row 17: knit.
Row18: k8; p21; k8.
Row 19: k13; p11; k13;
Row 20: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 21: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 22: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 23: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 24: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 25: k10; p1; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p1; k10.
Row 26: k5; p5; k1; p3; k2; p5; k2; p3; k1; p5; k5.
Row 27: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 28: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 29: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 30: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 31: k13; p1; k9; p1; k13.
Row 32: k5; p9; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 33: k13; p1; k1; p7; k1; p1; k13.
Row 34: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 35: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 37: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 38: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 39: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 40: k5; p4; k3; p13; k3; p4; k5.
Row 41: k8; p1; k2; p1; k13; p1; k2; p1; k8.
Row 42: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p13; k1; p3; k1; p2; k5.
Row 43: k6; p1; k5; p1; k11; p1; k5; p1; k6.
Row 44: k5; p1; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; p6; k1; p1; k5.
Row 45: k7; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k4; p1; k7.
Row 46: k5; p3; (k1, p2) X 2; k9; (p2, k1) X 2; p3; k5.
Row 47: k9; p2; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p2; k9.
Row 48: k5; p8; k3; p5; k3; p8; k5.
Row 49: k13; p2; k7; p2; k13.
Row 50: k5; p8; k2; p7; k2; p8; k5.
Row 51: k14; p2; k5; p2; k14.
Row 52: k7; p23; k7.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k9; p19; k9.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k11; p15; k11.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k13; p11; k13.
Rows 59 – 64: knit.
Shoulder Shaping:
Row 65: knit 13 stitches; bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise, and knit the remaining stitches. You should have 13 sts. on each side.
Next row: knit across and place first 13 stitches on a holder. Work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:
Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips
Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.
(Tip for right shoulder) Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row (right side), decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)
Weave in ends.
Hay, Baby! Cloth
Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!
Size: approximately 8" X 7 ¼ ".
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Camel.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
Pattern: Cast on 37 sts.
Rows 1 – 9: knit across row.
Row 10: (wrong side) k13; p11; k13.
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: k11; p15; k11.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: k9; p19; k9.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k8; p21; k8.
Row 17: k13; p11; k13;
Row 18: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 19: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 20: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 21: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 22: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 23: k10; p1; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p1; k10.
Row 24: k5; p5; k1; p3; k2; p5; k2; p3; k1; p5; k5.
Row 25: k10; p1; k15; p1; k10.
Row 26: k5; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k5.
Row 27: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 28: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 29: k13; p1; k9; p1; k13.
Row 30: k5; p9; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 31: k13; p1; k1; p7; k1; p1; k13.
Row 32: k5; p7; k1; p11; k1; p7; k5.
Row 33: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 34: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 35: k11; p1; k13; p1; k11.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k5.
Row 37: k11; p1; k4; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k11.
Row 38: k5; p4; k3; p13; k3; p4; k5.
Row 39: k8; p1; k2; p1; k13; p1; k2; p1; k8.
Row 40: k5; p2; k1; p3; k1; p13; k1; p3; k1; p2; k5.
Row 41: k6; p1; k5; p1; k11; p1; k5; p1; k6.
Row 42: k5; p1; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; p6; k1; p1; k5.
Row 43: k7; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k4; p1; k7.
Row 44: k5; p3; (k1, p2)x2; k9; (p2, k1)x2; p3; k5.
Row 45: k9; p2; k3; p2; k5; p2; k3; p2; k9.
Row 46: k5; p8; k3; p5; k3; p8; k5.
Row 47: k13; p2; k7; p2; k13.
Row 48: k5; p8; k2; p7; k2; p8; k5.
Row 49: k14; p2; k5; p2; k14.
Row 50: k7; p23; k7.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k9; p19; k9.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k11; p15; k11.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k13; p11; k13.
Rows 57 – 65: knit.
Bind off knitwise and weave in ends.
Weave in ends.