Down Cloverlaine: May 2009

Saturday, May 30, 2009

A Lazy Turtle Butt

Now that the nice weather is coming back, it's time to outfit Marty with some new soakers. I really enjoy making them and one of my favorite patterns is the Turtle Butt . It's well written and fun to make. I've posted lots of pictures in earlier posts. The only drawback when you use two colors is having to weave in a million ends, not that I really mind, because the finished product is always so darn cute. Still, I started thinking about what would happen if I just used a self-striping yarn for the whole thing. I knew it would have a nice texture and I was right. Here's the first one:

I used Poems by Wisom Yarns that I picked up in the warehouse at Webs. It was cheap and I had heard it was similar to Kureyon, only softer. Personally, I didn't see the comparison. The colors in the Poems are muted and it didn't make me think of the Noro at all. It also is lightly spun and I discovered that if I pulled too hard, the yarn came apart. It's 100% wool, but it looks like there is mohair in it. I'm also a little disappointed in the color. When it was in the skein, it really looked red, but knitted up it's just a step away from rose. Still, I don't think Marty will complain. He hasn't yet. ;o)

So if one try was good, why not do another? This time I wanted to use the Lion Wool that I had in my stash. The colors were pretty nice, even if the colors didn't stripe. I think it came out pretty neat and I love the texture.

I've never used this yarn before either. I was pleasantly surprised. It's soft and has some heft to it. This might end up being a good night time soaker. Now, I just have to lanolize them and see what happens then. I hope I won't be in for any unexpected surprises!

Monday, May 25, 2009

Quacking Up!

I've always thought that grandchildren were the best thing on earth, but now I know what may be a close runner up.... test knitters!! "Quacking Up!" has been thoroughly test knit by some wonderful volunteers . I know I've thanked each of you personally, but let me do it again here publicly! Thank you, thank you!!

Here then are the patterns for the cloth and bib. I have to confess that I really do like this set. I think it would look good in almost any color too! Scroll down for the line by line directions and I'll try and get the pdf files up as soon as I can!

I do apologize for those of you who also volunteered, but didn't give me an email address. I had no way to contact you, but next time, if you provide an address, I'll take you up on your offer! Although I was ready to quit after the last disaster with the Puddles cloth, this has been a great experience, so I may just do some more!

Quacking Up! Bib

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ¾ " from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Gold.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.

Cast on 15 sts.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts.; knit across row (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit (30 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (33 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (36 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 3 sts., knit. (39 sts.)
Row 10: knit.
Row 11: knit
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: k6; (p3, k5) three times; p3; k6.
Row 14: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 15: k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1, p1, k5) 3 times; p1; k4.
Row 16: k4; (p7, k1) 3 times; p7; k4.
Row 17: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 18: k3; p2; (k1, p3) 7 times; k1; p2; k3.
Row 19: k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1, p1, k5) 3 times; p1; k4.
Row 20: k4; p7; k2; p6; k1; p7; k1; p1; k1; p5; k4.
Row 21: k6; p1; k2; p1; k16; p1; k5; p1; k6.
Row 22: k3; p2; k1; p6; k1; p16; k1; p3; k1; p2; k3.
Row 23: k4; p1; k3; p1; k17; p1; k7; p1; k4.
Row 24: k4; p9; k1; p16; k1; p4; k4.
Row 25: k6; p1; k1; p1; k16; (p1, k6) 2 times.
Row 26: k3; p2; k1; p8; k1; p15; (k1, p2) 2 times; k3.
Row 27: k4; p1; k3; p1; k15; p1; k9; p1; k4.
Row 28: k4; p11; k1; p5; k4; p5; k1; p4; k4.
Row 29: k6; p1; k1; (p1, k4) 3 times; p1; k8; p1; k6.
Row 30: k3; p2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p3; (k1, p2) 2 times; k3.
Row 31: (k4, p1) 2 times; k2; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k10; p1; k4.
Row 32: k4; p11; k3; p1; k1; p6; k1; p2; k1; p5; k4.
Row 33: k6; p1; k3; p1; k1; p1; k6; p2; k2; p1; k8; p1; k6.
Row 34: k3; p2; k1; p9; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p2; k3.
Row 35: k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k10; p1; k4.
Row 36: k4; p5; k3; (p3, k1) 2 times; p6; k2; p7; k4.
Row 37: k6; p1; k4; p2; k6; p1, k3; (p1, k2) 3 times; p1; k6.
Row 38: k3; p2; (k1, p3) 2 times; k1; p1; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p6; k1; p2; k3.
Row 39: k4; p1; k12; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k4.
Row 40: k4; p7; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p13; k4.
Row 41: k6; p1; k9; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k4; p1; k6.
Row 42: k3; p2; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p10; k1; p2; k3.
Row 43: k4; p1; k11; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k7; p1; k4.
Row 44: k4; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p12; k4.
Row 45: k6; p1; k9; p1; k4; p1; k3; (p1, k6) 2 times.
Row 46: k3; p2; k1; p7; k1; p8; k1; p10; k1; p2; k3.
Row 47: k4; p1; k11; (p1, k8) 2 times; p1; k4.
Row 48: k4; p9; k1; p8; k1; p12; k4.
Row 49: k6; p1; k9; (p1, k7) 2 times; p1; k6.
Row 50: k3; p2; k1; p8; k1; p6; k1; p11; k1; p2; k3.
Row 51: k4; p1; k13; p1; k4; p1; k10; p1; k4.
Row 52: k4; p12; k4; p15; k4.
Row 53: k6; p1; k25; p1; k6.
Row 54: k3; p2; k1; p27; k1; p2; k3.
Row 55: k4; p1; k29; p1; k4.
Row 56: k4; p31; k4.
Row 57: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 58: k3; p2; (k1; p3) 7 times; k1; p2; k3.
Row 59: k4; p1; k5; (p1, k1, p1, k5) 3 times; p1; k4.
Row 60: k4; (p7, k1) 3 times; p7; k4.
Row 61: k6; (p3, k5) 3 times; p3; k6.
Row 62: k3; p2; k5; (p3, k5) 3 times; p2; k3.
Row 63: k4; p1; (k5, p1, k1, p1) 3 times; k5; p1; k4.
Row 64 – 68: knit.

Shoulder Shaping:
Row 69: k14, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.

You should have 14 sts. on each side. Place first 14 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 14 sts. as follows:

Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.

All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 3 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)

Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)

Knit one row.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.

(Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)
Weave in ends.

Quacking Up! Cloth

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

It's Back

I finally have got around to correcting both the Puddles cloth and bib. Never have I had so much trouble with a pattern. I don't even like it anymore! On a brighter note, I have some really great friends who are hard at work testing the "next" pattern. I've been on a designing kick lately, so I have lots more coming up. In the meantime, I've been busy knitting some soakers, which I gave away before taking any pictures, and yet another pair of socks. Maybe I'll have some pictures next time.

Puddles Cloth

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

What was I thinking!!

I don't know what is wrong with me, but I seriously messed up the directions to the Puddles cloth. Originally, I had designed the cloth with some lame waves and a bow around the duck's neck, as you can see in this picture.

I wasn't happy with the results and so I didn't even bother correcting the mistakes that I found when I did the test knit. Instead, I redid it, minus the bow and the waves, which resulted in a much cleaner looking cloth (in my opinion), as you can see by the next picture.

Unfortunately for me, and for all of you that downloaded the pattern, the directions that I posted were for the first version. Somehow, I mixed up the two and only thanks to a good samaritan, who actually tried knitting it, did the error come to light. I've taken down the pdf link and I've deleted the original post. I'm sure the correct version (the version that I was supposed to post) is okay, but I'm not taking any chances, so I'll be reknitting it to make sure. I'm also deleting the first version from my computer so (hopefully) I won't do it again. Please, please accept my most sincere apologies. This is the main reason that I don't charge for any of my patterns!

As you know, I did mention that I've done another version of the duck, which I think might be my favorite pattern to date. I'll give you all a sneak peek, but don't expect any pattern to be posted for awhile. I'll have to reknit it so I won't have to post any more of these humiliating blog posts. This one is "Quacking Up!".

If you'd like to test knit it, let me know and I'll gladly send you the pattern. There's no money in it, but you can be the "first" and of course, I'd be eternally grateful!! (If you're interested, please contact me either through Ravelry (cloverlaine) or send me an email at wapikiya at verizon dot net.)

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Oops! Puddles Errata

I just discovered that there was a mistake in Row 34, so if you downloaded this pattern earlier today, you'll need to either download it again, or make a note of my error. I've corrected both the posted version and the pdf. I'm presently re-knitting it (again) and will post any further corrections. Hopefully, there won't be any! I need a test knitter with better eyes than mine!

This One's For the Girls.

Finally, here's one of the bibs I did with little girls in mind. Not to say that it wouldn't look cute on a boy as well. I had this one all set to go, but after knitting it up and looking at it for awhile, I decided that it needed some changes. Originally, I had a bow around the duck's neck, but it was pretty difficult to determine exactly what it was. Sometimes, a design will look so cute charted up, but then once it's knitted, it looks like crap! I decided to stick with simple and I'm happy with the results. I don't have the directions done yet for a dishcloth, but I'll work on it. Now, as for those who knit for boys, don't despair because I have a different version done that would look super for a guy. At least I think it will.... I haven't knitted it up yet!

The pdf is listed with the other bib patterns and here's the line by line for all of you who have a problem with the pdfs. (I still don't understand why, but it's just easier to post than to try and figure it out!)

Here then, is "Puddles":

Copyright 2009 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer. Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission. I worked hard to produce this pattern for you, so please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size: approximately 8 ½" from neck edge to bottom and 8" wide

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry! The bib pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in yellow.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly tighter.

Pattern: Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (38 sts.)
Row 12: knit.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k13; p12; k13.
Row 15: k25; p1; k12.
Row 16: k11; p1; k1; p14; k11.
Row 17: k25; p1; k12.
Row 18: k9; p3; k1; p16; k9.
Row 19: k25; p1; k12.
Row 20: k7; p6; k1; p17; k7.
Row 21: k6; p1; k17; p1; k13.
Row 22: k5; p9; k1; p16; k1; p1; k5.
Row 23: k6; p1; k16; p1; k14.
Row 24: k5; p10; k1; p15; k1; p1; k5.
Row 25: k6; p1; k5; p4; k6; p1; k15.
Row 26: k5; p11; (k1, p4) 3 times; k1; p1; k5.
Row 27: k6; p1; k3; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 28: k5; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; (k1, p2) 2 times; k5.
Row 29: k7; p1; k2; p1; k6; p1; k1; p3; k16.
Row 30: k5; p11; k1; p2; k2; p6; k1; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 31: k8; p1; k1; p1; k6; p1; k3; p1; k16.
Row 32: k5; p11; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p1; k1; p3; k5.
Row 33: k9; p2; k6; (p1, k3) 2 times; p3; k10.
Row 34: k5; p5; (k1, p2) 2 times; k1; p3; k1; p6; k2; p4; k5.
Row 35: k10; p1; k5; p1; k4; p1; k1; p1; k3; p1; k10.
Row 36: k5; p6; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p10; k5.
Row 37: k15; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k12.
Row 38: k5; p7; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; p9; k5.
Row 39: k14; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k13.
Row 40: k5; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 41: k14; p1; k7; p1; k1; p1; k13.
Row 42: k5; p9; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k5.
Row 43: k14; p1; k8; p1; k14.
Row 44: k5; p9; k1; p8; k1; p9; k5.
Row 45: k14; p1; k8; p1; k14.
Row 46: k5; p10; k1; p7; k1; p9; k5.
Row 47: k15; p1; k6; p1; k15.
Row 48: k5; p2; k2; p7; k1; p4; k1; p11; k5.
Row 49: k17; p4; k7; p1; k1; p1; k7.
Row 50: k5; (p2, k1) 2 times; p22; k5.
Row 51: k24; p4; k2; p1; k7.
Row 52: k5; p1; k1; p3; k1; p3; k1; p18; k5.
Row 53: k23; (p1; k3) 2 times; p1; k6.
Row 54: k5; p1; k1; p2; k1; p1; k1; p2; k1; p18; k5.
Row 55: k24; p1; k1; p1; k2; p3; k6.
Row 56: k5; p6; k1; p1; k1; p19; k5.
Row 57: k24; p2; k12.
Row 58: k5; p28; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p7; k12; p7; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: k7; p5; k14; p5; k7.
Rows 63 – 68: knit

Shoulder Shaping:

Row 69: k13, bind off the next 12 stitches knitwise, and knit remaining stitches.

You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:

Note: As you look at the bib, this will be the left side.
Knit one row.

All the decreases are made on right side rows. I have included a couple of tips below.

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
(Tip: I find it easiest to decrease these neck stitches by slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Because the cotton is heavy, it can be a little difficult to slip two stitches and then knit them together.)

Knit one row.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain. (For these decreases, you should knit the last two stitches together.)
Knit one row.

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord. Don’t worry if the I-cords look a little wonky. A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won’t even notice! A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

Join yarn to neck edge and work right side to correspond to the left side.

(Tip for right side. Join the yarn at the neck edge and knit across row. On the next row, decrease at the neck edge by knitting the last two stitches together. For the shoulder edge, decrease by slipping the first stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.)

Weave in ends.

Down Cloverlaine