"Green" Peace Bib

Happy Earth Day! I thought today would be a good day to publish my "green" peace bib. I was in college during the hippie 60's when the peace symbol first gained such prominence and although I never was (and never will be) an activist, I really like what the symbol represents...peace. Who doesn't like peace? The thought of little babies growing up in a peaceful world is especially pleasing. I hope it comes to pass, not only for my own precious grandchildren, but for babies everywhere.

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

I used Peaches 'n Creme in baby green to make this. I love that yarn and I love that colorway too. It's so soft and perfect for a baby. I'm just trying not to imagine it covered with strained carrots or creamed corn!

Materials: Of course, you should really use green!! One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Cast on 12 sts.

Row 1: knit across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p12; k13.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k11, p16; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p20; k9.
Row 17: knit
Row 18: k7; p24; k7.
Row 19: knit
Row 20: k5; p28; k5.

(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established garter stitch for the border. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)

Row 21: knit.
Row 22: k5; p28; k5.
Row 23: knit.
Row 24: k5; p28; k5.
Row 25: k15; p8; k15.
Row 26: k5; p8, k12, p8; k5.
Row 27: k11; p4; k3; p2; k3; p4; k11.
Row 28: k5; p5; k3; p5; k2; p5; k3; p5; k5.
Row 29: k10; p2; k6; p2; k6; p2; k10.
Row 30: k5; p4; k3; p6; k2; p6; k3; p4; k5.
Row 31: k9; p4; k5; p2; k5; p4; k9.
Row 32: k5; p3; k2; p1; k3; p4; k2; p4; k3; p1; k2; p3; k5.
Row 33: k8; p2; k2; p3; k3; p2; k3; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 34: k5; p3; k2; p3; k3; p2; k2; p2; k3; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 35: k8; p2; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k4; p2; k8.
Row 36: k5; p3, k2; p5; k8; p5; k2; p3, k5.
Row 37: k8; p2; k6; p6; k6; p2; k8.
Row 38: k5; p3; k2; p7; k4; p7; k2; p3; k5.
Row 39: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 40: k5; p3; k2; p8; k2; p8; k2; p3; k5.
Row 41: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 42: k5; p4; k2; p7; k2; p7; k2; p4; k5.
Row 43: k9; p3; k6; p2; k6; p3; k9.
Row 44: k5; p5; k2; p6; k2; p6; k2; p5; k5.
Row 45: k10; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; k10.
Row 46: k5; p6; k4; p3; k2; p3; k4; p6; k5.
Row 47: k13; p12; k13.
Row 48: k5; p10; k8; p10; k5.
Row 49: knit.
Row 50: k5; p28; k5.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k5; p28; k5.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k5; p28; k5.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k5; p28; k5.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k5; p8; k12; p8; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p5; k16; p5; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: knit.
Row 63: knit 13 stitches.; bind off next 12 stitches knitwise; knit remaining stitches. You should have 13 stitches on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 stitches in garter stitch as follows:

Shoulder shaping:

Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Knit one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.

Something's Fishy Bib

Apparently, this bib has some major errors.  I've marked the changes in red.  I'm knitting it up again and will post the pattern as a pdf.  I'll also include a chart!  If you downloaded this pattern before March 26, 2011, you'll need to note the corrections.

You asked for it so here it is in a slightly different version. I changed the fish a little and I tweaked it here and there a little bit. I'm still not happy with the fish, but since I received so many emails about it, I decided to publish the directions. I would suggest knitting this up in a medium solid color, not too light and not too dark so the fish don't get lost. There is a lot of counting in this one, but I tried really hard to be accurate. Please, if you find any mistakes, let me know so I can fix it! Also, this does make a little larger bib, so you might want to drop down a needle size from what you usually use and a tighter gauge will help the design pop out. I hope.

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
B5 = seed stitch border

Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k 13. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches; k 16. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches; k 19; (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches; k 22. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches; k 25. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches; k 28. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p3; k3; p5; k3; p5; k3; p1; k5. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k9. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p1; (k3, p5) 3 times end k7. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; (p1; k3) 5 times; end p1; k9. (39 sts.)
Row 12: k4; p6; (k3; p5) 2 times; k1; p1 k1; p6; k4.
Row 13: k11; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k11.
Row 14: k3; p3; (k3, p5) 3 times; k3; p3; k3.
Row 15: k5; (p1; k3) 7 times; end p1; k5.
Row 16: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 3 times; k1; p1; k3.
Row 17: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 18: k3; p3; k1; p25; k1; p3; k3.
Row 19: k5; p1; k27; p1; k5.
Row 20: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 21: k3; p1; k24; p1; k6; p1; k3.
Row 22: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k2; p16; k1; p3; k3.
Row 23: k5; p1; k16; p2; k2; p3; k4; p1; k5.
Row 24: k3; p1; k1; p5; k8; p16; k1; p1; k3.
Row 25: k3; p1; k16; p8; k7; p1; k3.
Row 26: k3; p3; k1; p5; k8; p12; k1; p3; k3.
Row 27: k5; p1; k13; p9; k5; p1; k5.
Row 28: k3; p1; k1; p5; k9; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 29: k3; p1; k14; p1; k2; p4; k1; p3; k6; p1; k3.
Row 30: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k3; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 31: k5; p1; k12; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k4; p1; k5.
Row 32: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 33: k3; (p1, k15) x2; p1; k3.
Row 34: k3; p3; k1; p16; k2; (p3, k1) x2; p3; k3.
Row 35: k5; p1; k4; p2; k3; p2; k16; p1; k5.
Row 36: k3; p1; k1; p16; k8; p5; k1; p1; k3.
Row 37: k3; p1; k6; p9; k16; p1; k3.
Row 38: k3; p3; k1; p12; k9; p4; k1; p3; k3.
Row 39: k5; p1; k6; p8; k1; p1; k11; p1; k5.
Row 40: k3; p1; k1; p15; k8; p6; k1; p1; k3.
Row 41: k3; p1; k6; p3; k1; p4; k3; p1; k13; p1; k3.
Row 42: k3; p3; k1; p15; k3; p2; k2; p3; k1; p3; k3.

Row 43:  k5; p1; k14; p1; k12; p1; k5.

Row 44: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 45: k3; p1; k23; p1; k7; p1; k3.
Row 46: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k2; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 47: k5; p1; k15; p2; k2; p3; k5; p1; k5.
Row 48: k3; p1; k1; p6; k8; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 49: k3; p1; k15; p8; k8; p1; k3
Row 50: k3; p3; k1; p6; k8; p11; k1; p3; k3.
Row 51: k5; p1; k10; p1; k1; p9; k6; p1; k5.
Row 52: k3; p1; k1; p6; k9; p14; k1; p1; k3.
Row 53: k3; p1; k12; p1; k3; p4; k1; p3; k7; p1; k3.
Row 54: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k3; p14; k1; p3; k3.
Row 55: k5; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k2; (p1, k5) x2.
Row 56: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 57: k3; p1; k31; p1; k3.
Row 58: k3; p3; k3; (p5, k3) 3 times end p3; k3.
Row 59:  k5; (p1, k3) x7; p1; k5.
Row 60: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1, p5) 3 times; end k1; p1; k3.
Row 61: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.

Row 62:  k3; p3; (k3, p5) x3; k3; p3; k3.

Row 63:  k5; (p1, k3) x7; p1; k5.

Row 64:  k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1, p5) x3; k1; p1; k3.

Row 65: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 66: Knit.
Row 67: Knit.
Row 68: Knit.

Shoulder shaping:

Knit 13 sts.; bind off next 13 sts. knitwise; knit remaining 13 sts. You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. in garter stitch as follows:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.

Penguin Washcloth

This pattern has been completed rewritten as of September 10, 2011.  It also includes a chart. The revised pattern can be found in the sidebar or by clicking here .

I think this little penguin is still my favorite design. At the time, I couldn't find any that I liked so that's when I decided to try it on my own. Of course, since I did this, I have seen some penguins that I really like. Susan Mrenna has an adorable one. You should check out her blog http://www.knitalittlemore.blogspot.com/

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème for a dishcloth, or for a baby’s washcloth, I suggest using something really soft like Bernat© Cottontots.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
B5 = seed stitch border (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1)

Cast on 37 stitches.
Rows 1 – 5: p1, k1, across row.

(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established seed stitch for the border. They are referred to as “B5”. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)

Row 6: B5; p27; B5.
Row 7: B5; k27; B5.
Row 8: B5; p27; B5.
Row 9: B5; k27; B5.
Row 10: B5, p7, k6, p1, k6, p7, B5
Row 11: B5, k8, p11, k8, B5.
Row 12: B5, p9, k9, p9, B5.
Row 13: B5, k10, p7, k10, B5.
Row 14: B5, p11, k5, p11, B5.
Row 15: B5, k10, p7, k10, B5.
Row 16: B5, p9, k3, p3, k3, p9, B5.
Row 17: B5, k8, p3, k5, p3, k8, B5.
Row 18: B5, p8, k2, p7, k2, p8, B5.
Row 19: B5, k8, p2, k7, p2, k8, B5.
Row 20: B5, p3, k2, p3, k2, p7, k2, p3, k2, p3, B5.
Row 21: B5, k3, p3, k2, p2, k7, p2, k2, p3, k3, B5.
Row 22: B5, p3, k4, p1, k2, p7, k2, p1, k4, p3, B5.
Row 23: B5, k3, p4, k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p4, k3, B5.
Row 24: B5, p4, k6, p7, k6, p4, B5.
Row 25: B5, k5, p6, k5, p6, k5, B5.
Row 26: B5, p5, k6, p5, k6, p5, B5.
Row 27: B5, k6, p5, k5, p5, k6, B5.
Row 28: B5, p7, k5, p3, k5, p7, B5.
Row 29: B5, k8, p4, k3, p4, k8, B5.
Row 30: B5, p9, k9, p9, B5.
Row 31: B5, k10, p7, k10, B5.
Row 32: B5, p10, k7, p10, B5.
Row 33: B5, k9, p4, k1, p4, k9, B5.
Row 34: B5, p9, k3, p3, k3, p9, B5.
Row 35: B5, k9, p3, k3, p3, k9, B5.
Row 36: B5, p9, k3, p3, k3, p9, B5.
Row 37: B5, k9, p3, k3, p3, k9, B5.
Row 38: B5, p9, k9, p9, B5.
Row 39: B5, k9, p9, k9, B5.
Row 40: B5, p10, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p10, B5.
Row 41: B5, k10, p7, k10, B5.
Row 42: B5, p11, k5, p11, B5.
Row 43: B5, k27, B5.
Row 44: B5, p27, B5.
Row 45: B5, k27, B5.
Row 46: B5, p27, B5.
Rows 47 – 51: p1; k1 across row.
Bind off.

Marty's Mouse Washcloth

I kind of like the way this one turned out. Again, it's not too big. It would be perfect for a baby's washcloth or if you just like smaller cloths!

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème for a dishcloth, or for a baby’s washcloth, I suggest using something really soft like Bernat© Cottontots.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
B5 = seed stitch border (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1)

Cast on 37 stitches.
Rows 1 – 5: k1; p1; across row.
Row 6: k1; p1, for 13 sts; p9; k2; k1, p1; for 13 sts.
Row 7: k1, p1; for 12 sts.; k1; p2; k10; p1, k1; for 12 sts.
Row 8: k1, p1; for 11 sts.; p11; k2; p2; k1; p1; for 11 sts.
Row 9: k1; p1; for 10 sts; k3; p2; k12; p1, k1 for 10 sts.
Row 10: k1, p1, for 9 sts.; p13; k2; p4; k1, p1, for 9 sts.
Row 11: k1, p1, for 8 sts., k6; p2; k13; p1, k1, for 8 sts.
Row 12: K1, p1, for 7 sts.; p14; k2; p7; k1, p1, for 7 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1, for 6 sts.; k9; p2; k13; p1; p1, k1, for 6 sts.
Row 14: k1, p1, for 5 sts.; k2; p13; k7; p5; k1, p1, for 5 sts.

(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established seed stitch for the border. They are referred to as “B5”. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)

Row 15: B5; k4; p7; k14; p2; B5.
Row 16: B5; k2; p19; k2; p4; B5.
Row 17: B5; k4; p2; k19; p2; B5.
Row 18: B5; k2; p20; k2; p3; B5.
Row 19: B5; k3; p2; k19; p2; k1; B5.
Row 20: B5; p1; k2; p19; k2; p3; B5.
Row 21: B5; k3; p2; k19; p2; k1; B5.
Row 22: B5; p2; k2; p18; k2; p3; B5.
Row 23: B5; k3; p2; k17; p3; k2; B5.
Row 24: B5; p3, k2; p10; k1; p6; k2; p3; B5.
Row 25: B5; k3; p2; k5; p3; k8; p2; k4; B5.
Row 26: B5; p4, k2; p8; k3; p5; k2; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k4; p2; k3; p2; k1; p2; k8; p3; k2; B5.
Row 28: B5; p2; k2; p5; k6; p1; k2; p3; k2; p4; B5.
Row 29: B5; k5; p5; k3; p5; k5; p3; k1; B5.
Row 30: B5; p1; k2; p6; k2; p7; k3; p6; B5.
Row 31: B5; k15; p2; k7; p2; k1; B5.
Row 32: B5; p1; k2; p7; k2; p15; B5.
Row 33: B5; k15; p2; k7; p2; k1; B5.
Row 34: B5; p1; k3; p6; k2; p15; B5.
Row 35: B5; k15; p2; k6; p2; k2; B5.
Row 36: B5; p3; k2; p5; k2; p15; B5.
Row 37: B5; k16; p2; k3; p3; k3; B5.
Row 38: B5; p4; k7; p16; B5.
Row 39: B5; k17; p5; k5; B5.
Row 40: B5; p27; B5.
Row 41: B5; k27; B5.
Row 42: B5; p27; B5.
Row 43: k1, p1, for 6 sts.; k25; p1, k1; for 6 sts.
Row 44: k1, p1, for 7 sts., p23; k, p1, for 7 sts.
Row 45: k1, p1, for 8 sts.; k21; p1, k1, for 8 sts.
Row 46: k1, p1, for 9 sts.; p19; k1, p1, for 9 sts.
Row 47: k1, p1, for 10 sts.; k17; p1, k1, for 10 sts.
Row 48: k1, p1, for 11 sts.; p15; k1, p1, for 11 sts.
Row 49: k1, p1, for 12 sts.; k13; p1, k1, for 12 sts.
Row 50: k1, p1, for 13 sts. p11; k1, p1, for 13 sts.
Rows 51 – 55: k1, p1 across row.
Bind off.

Teddy Bear Washcloth

This is a small cloth and is more of a rectangle than a square. You could easily lengthen it by adding a few rows to the top or the bottom of the design.

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.


Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème for a dishcloth, or for a baby’s washcloth, I suggest using something really soft like Bernat© Cottontots.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
B5 = seed stitch border (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1)

Cast on 38 stitches.
Row 1: p1; k1; across row.
Row 2: k1; p1; across row.
Row 3: p1; k1; across row.
Row 4: k1; p1; across row.
Row 5: p1; k1; across row.

(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established seed stitch for the border. They are referred to as “B5”. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)

Row 6: B5; p27; B5.
Row 7: B5; k27; B5.
Row 8: B5; p27; B5.
Row 9: B5; k27; B5.
Row 10: B5; p5; k3; p12; k3; p5; B5.
Row 11: B5; k4; p5; k10; p5; k4; B5.
Row 12: B5; p3; k7; p8; k7; p3; B5.
Row 13: B5; k3; p8; k6; p8; k3; B5.
Row 14: B5; p3; k22; p3; B5.
Row 15: B5; k4; p20; k4; B5.
Row 16: B5; p7; k14; p7; B5.
Row 17: B5; k8; p12; k8; B5.
Row 18: B5; p9; k10; p9; B5.
Row 19: B5; k10, p8; k10; B5.
Row 20: B5; p10; k8; p10; B5.
Row 21: B5; k10, p8; k10; B5.
Row 22: B5; p10; k8; p10; B5.
Row 23: B5; k9; p10; k9; B5.
Row 24: B5; p5; k18; p5; B5.
Row 25: B5; k4; p20; k4; B5.
Row 26: B5; p4; k20; p4; B5.
Row 27: B5; k4; p5; k2; p6; k2; p5; k4; B5.
Row 28: B5; p5; k3; p3; k6; p3; k3; p5; B5.
Row 29: B5; k10; p8; k10; B5.
Row 30: B5; p9; k10; p9; B5.
Row 31: B5; k9; p10; k9; B5.
Row 32: B5; p9; k10; p9; B5.
Row 33: B5; k7; p14; k7; B5.
Row 34: B5; p6; k16; p6; B5.
Row 35: B5; k6; p4; k1; p6; k1; p4; k6; B5.
Row 36: B5; p7; k2; p3; k4; p3; k2; p7; B5.
Row 37: B5; k28; B5.
Row 38: B5; p28; B5.
Row 39: B5; k28; B5.
Row 40: B5; p28; B5.
Row 41: p1; k1; across row.
Row 42: k1; p1; across row.
Row 43: p1; k1; across row.
Row 44: k1; p1; across row.
Row 45: p1; k1; across row.
Bind off.

Dinosaur Washcloth

Note:  This pattern has been updated and now includes a chart.  The pdf file is in the sidebar.


I had a marathon knitting session this weekend and I have finally converted the bib patterns into washcloths in response to the many requests I've had. Altogether I knit four washcloths and two bibs! I'll be posting them one by one, but I need to re-check them to make sure I didn't forget any important details! I love this dinosaur in the red! The bib was cute in the green, but don't you think this red just screams "boy"? It gives me an idea for another project altogether. It was pretty hard to get a decent picture for some reason. The design shows up in person really well, but not so much in the picture.

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.
Pattern has been revised. If you downloaded it before September 8, 2009, you'll need to do it again.

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème for a dishcloth, or for a baby’s washcloth, I suggest using something really soft like Bernat© Cottontots.

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
B5 = seed stitch border (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1)

Cast on 38 stitches.

Row 1: p1; k1; across row.
Row 2: k1; p1; across row.
Row 3: p1; k1; across row.
Row 4: k1; p1; across row.
Row 5: p1; k1; across row.

(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established seed stitch for the border. They are referred to as “B5”. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)

Row 6: B5; p28; B5.
Row 7: B5; k28; B5.
Row 8: B5; p28; B5.
Row 9: B5; k28; B5.
Row 10: B5; p15; k6; p7; B5.
Row 11: B5; k6; p7; k15; B5.
Row 12: B5; p16; k7; p5; B5.
Row 13: B5; k4; p6; k18; B5.
Row 14: B5; p22; k3; p3; B5.
Row 15: B5; k3; p3; k22; B5.
Row 16: B5; p22; k3; p3; B5.
Row 17: B5; k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p4; k11; B5.
Row 18: B5; p11; k4; p2; k4; p1; k3; p3; B5.
Row 19: B5; k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p4; k11; B5.
Row 20: B5; p5; k5; p2; k3; p3; k3; p1; k3; p3; B5.
Row 21: B5; k3; p3; k1; p3; k3; p3; k2; p5; k5; B5.
Row 22: B5; p5; k5; p2; k3; p3; k7; p3; B5.
Row 23: B5; k3; p8; k2; p3; k1; p4; k7; B5.
Row 24: B5; p8; k3; p1; k13; p3; B5.
Row 25: B5; k3; p17; k8; B5.
Row 26: B5; p9; k16; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k4; p15; k9; B5.
Row 28: B5; p10; k14; p4; B5.
Row 29: B5; k5; p13; k10; B5.
Row 30: B5; p10; k13; p5; B5.
Row 31: B5; k6; p12; k10; B5.
Row 32: B5; p10; k11; p7; B5.
Row 33: B5; k7; p11; k10; B5.
Row 34: B5; p10; k10; p8; B5.
Row 35: B5; k9; p9; k10; B5.
Row 36: B5; p10; k8; p10; B5.
Row 37: B5; k11; p7; k10; B5.
Row 38: B5; p10; k6; p12; B5.
Row 39: B5; k12; p6; k3; p3; k4; B5.
Row 40: B5; p3; k5; p2; k5; p13; B5.
Row 41: B5; k13; p12; k3; B5.
Row 42: B5; p3; k12; p13; B5.
Row 43: B5; k14; p11; k3; B5.
Row 44: B5; p4, k3, p1; k6; p14; B5.
Row 45: B5; k15; p8, k5; B5.
Row 46: B5; p6; k6; p16; B5.
Row 47: B5; k17; p3; k8; B5.
Row 48: B5; p28; B5.
Row 49: B5; k28; B5.
Row 50: B5; p28; B5.
Row 51: B5; k28; B5.
Row 52: k1, p1 across row.

Row 53: p1, k1 across row

Row 54: k1, p1 across row.

Row 55: p1, k1 across row.

Row 56: k1, p1 across row.Bind off.

They can't all be winners!

So I had this idea for a bib and it looked so cute on paper, but when I knitted it up, it kind of lost something. I'm not sure that the border is firm enough to keep the edges from rolling up. I haven't decided whether or not I should write up the pattern or if I should go back to the drawing board, or if I should just toss it into the pile of rejects. What do you think?


On another note, I've been working on some more baby leggings. I think this is the greatest idea for keeping little legs warm, especially during diaper changes. This is the pattern by Alana Dakos called Legwarmies. http://nevernotknitting.blogspot.com/2008/01/legwarmies.html I modified it by not changing to stockinette and just ribbed the whole leg. Since little Marty is only two months old, he needs a little "cling" to keep them on his legs. It was pretty mindless knitting, but I loved the yarn so at least I could look forward to the colors changing to keep me interested. The yarn is Regia Ringel Color 5048.

Here is another pair that I'm working on. This time I'm sticking to the pattern (rare for me) and I'm using Knit Picks Felici in very manly browns! This yarn is so soft. The only thing that's bugging me is that there are little flecks of gray throughout the light tan sections. It looks like I was eating something when I was knitting and spattered it on the yarn. The colorway, Pebble, has been discontinued, maybe that's why! I'm thinking that with the left over yarn, I should make a third leg, so when one gets lost in the laundry, there will be a backup!

I'm also working on converting some of the bib patterns into dishcloths or washcloths. A bib and a matching washcloth would make cute baby gifts tucked into a basket with other goodies, don't you think?

Oops, Dinosaur Bib Errata

Well, it was bound to happen. My pal, Steph, kindly pointed out to me that there was a mistake in the pattern for the dinosaur bib. Row 63 said to p1, k2 for 8 stitches, but of course, it should have said p1, k1. I've corrected the pattern, but if you downloaded it before today, then you need to make the correction!

The response to these bibs has really been overwhelming to me. I never dreamed that there were so many knitters who would be interested in making them! To all of you, I thank you so much for your kind comments and emails.

Marty's Mouse

Anyone who reads this (Is anyone reading this?) must think that all I knit is bibs! Well, I do knit quite a few bibs as you can never have too many of them, but I do knit other things as well! In any event, here is a little mouse bib that I made for my grandson, Marty. He's not ready to wear it yet, but he will be before you know it!

Note: The edges of the bib are worked in seed stitch over the first and last five stitches (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) and are referred to as “B5”.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Cast on 11 sts.

Row 1: p1,k1, across row
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 14 sts.
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 17 sts.
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row. 20 sts.
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row. 23 sts.
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 26 sts.
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 29 sts.
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. 31 sts.
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. 33 sts.
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. 35 sts.
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. 37 sts.
Row 12: k1, p1 for 13 sts.; p9; k2, k1, p1 for 13 sts.
Row 13: k1, p1, for 12 sts.; k1; p2; k10; p1, k1 for 12 sts.
Row 14: k1, p1, for 11 sts.; p11; k2; p2; k1, p1 for 11 sts.
Row 15: k1, p1, for 10 sts; k3; p2; k12; p1, k1 for 10 sts.
Row 16: k1, p1, for 9 sts.; p13; k2; p4; k1, p1 for 9 sts.
Row 17: k1, p1, for 8 sts.; k6; p2; k13; p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 18: k1, p1 for 7 sts.; p14; k2; p7; k1, p1 for 7 sts.
Row 19: k1, p1 for 6 sts; k9; p2; k13; p1; p1, k1 for 6 sts.
Row 20: k1, p1 for 5 sts; k2, p13; k7; p5; k1, p1 for 5 sts.

(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch border. (k1 p1 k1 p1 k1) It might be helpful to place a marker for these stitches.)

Row 21: B5; k4; p7; k14; p2; B5.
Row 22: B5; k2, p19; k2; p4; B5.
Row 23: B5; k4; p2; k19; p2; B5.
Row 24: B5; k2; p20; k2, p3; B5.
Row 25: B5; k3; p2; k19; p2; k1; B5.
Row 26: B5; p1; k2; p19; k2; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k3; p2; k19; p2; k1; B5.
Row 28: B5; p2; k2; p18; k2; p3; B5.
Row 29: B5; k3; p2; k17; p3; k2; B5.
Row 30: B5; p3, k2; p10; k1; p6; k2; p3; B5.
Row 31: B5; k3; p2; k5; p3; k8; p2; k4; B5.
Row 32: B5; p4, k2; p8; k3; p5; k2; p3; B5.
Row 33: B5; k4; p2; k3; p2; k1; p2; k8; p3; k2; B5.
Row 34: B5; p2; k2; p5; k6; p1; k2; p3; k2; p4; B5.
Row 35: B5; k5; p5; k3; p5; k5; p3; k1; B5.
Row 36: B5; p1; k2; p6; k2; p7; k3; p6; B5.
Row 37: B5; k15; p2; k7; p2; k1; B5.
Row 38: B5; p1; k2; p7; k2; p15; B5.
Row 39: B5; k15; p2; k7; p2; k1; B5.
Row 40: B5; p1; k3; p6; k2; p15; B5.
Row 41: B5; k15; p2; k6; p2; k2; B5.
Row 42: B5; p3; k2; p5; k2; p15; B5.
Row 43: B5; k16; p2; k3; p3; k3; B5.
Row 44: B5; p4; k7; p16; B5.
Row 45: B5; k17; p5; k5; B5.
Row 46: B5; p27; B5.
Row 47: B5; k27; B5.
Row 48: B5; p27; B5.
Row 49: B5; k27; B5.
Row 50: B5; p27; B5.
Row 51: B5; k27; B5.
Row 52: B5; p27; B5.
Row 53: B5; k27; B5.
Row 54: B5; p27; B5.
Row 55: B5; k27; B5.
Row 56: B5; p27; B5.
Row 57: B5; k27; B5.
Row 58: B5; p27; B5.
Row 59: B5, k8, p1, k1 across next 11 sts., k8, B5.
Row 60: B5, p7, k1, p1 across next 13 sts., p7, B5.
Row 61: B5, p1, k5, p1, k1 across next 15 sts., k5, p1, B5.
Row 62: B5, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1 across next 17 sts., p3, k1, p1, B5.
Row 63: k1, p1 across row.
Row 64: k1, p1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 across next 13 sts., bind off next 11 sts, p1, k1 to end.

Shoulder Shaping:
Working on these 13 sts, k1, p1 across row.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Next row, dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Work one row even.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.

Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Penguin Bib

This pattern has been completed rewritten as of September 10, 2011.  It also includes a chart. The revised pattern can be found in the sidebar or by clicking here.
I love penguins and I couldn't find any patterns that really appealed to me, so once again I decided to do my own.



Materials: Worsted weight cotton. I used Lily’s Sugar and Cream in Grape. 1 skein.
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Note: The edges of the bib are worked in seed stitch over the first and last five stitches (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) and are referred to as “b5”.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Cast on 11 sts.

Row 1: p1,k1, across row
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 14 sts.
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 17 sts.
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row. 20 sts.
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row. 23 sts.
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 26 sts.
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row. 29 sts.
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row. 31 sts.
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. 33 sts.
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. 35 sts.
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row. 37 sts.
Row 12: k1, p1, for 13 sts., p 11, k1, p1 to end.
Row 13: k1, p1, for 12 sts., k 13, p1 k1 to end.
Row 14: k1, p1, for 11 sts., p 15, p1, k1 to end.
Row 15: k1, p1, for 10 st., k 17, p1, k1 to end.
Row 16: k1, p1, for 9 st., p 19, p1, k1 to end.
Row 17: k1, p1 for 8 st., k 21, p1, k1 to end.
Row 18: k1, p1 for 7 sts., p 23, p1, k1 to end.
Row 19: k1, p1, for 6 sts., k 25, p1, k1, to end
Row 20: b5, p7, k6, p1, k6, p7, b5

(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch border. (k1 p1 k1 p1 k1) It might be helpful to place a marker for these stitches.)

Row 21: b5, k8, p11, k8, b5.
Row 22: b5, p9, k9, p9, b5.
Row 23: b5, k10, p7, k10, b5.
Row 24: b5, p11, k5, p11, b5.
Row 25: b5, k10, p7, k10, b5.
Row 26: b5, p9, k3, p3, k3, p9, b5.
Row 27: b5, k8, p3, k5, p3, k8, b5.
Row 28: b5, p8, k2, p7, k2, p8, b5.
Row 29: b5, k8, p2, k7, p2, k8, b5.
Row 30: b5, p3, k2, p3, k2, p7, k2, p3, k2, p3, b5.
Row 31: b5, k3, p3, k2, p2, k7, p2, k2, p3, k3, b5.
Row 32: b5, p3, k4, p1, k2, p7, k2, p1, k4, p3, b5.
Row 33: b5, k3, p4, k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p4, k3, b5.
Row 34: b5, p4, k6, p7, k6, p4, b5.
Row 35: b5, k5, p6, k5, p6, k5, b5.
Row 36: b5, p5, k6, p5, k6, p5, b5.
Row 37: b5, k6, p5, k5, p5, k6, b5.
Row 38: b5, p7, k5, p3, k5, p7, b5.
Row 39: b5, k8, p4, k3, p4, k8, b5.
Row 40: b5, p9, k9, p9, b5.
Row 41: b5, k10, p7, k10, b5.
Row 42: b5, p10, k7, p10, b5.
Row 43: b5, k9, p4, k1, p4, k9, b5.
Row 44: b5, p9, k3, p3, k3, p9, b5.
Row 45: b5, k9, p3, k3, p3, k9, b5.
Row 46: b5, p9, k3, p3, k3, p9, b5.
Row 47: b5, k9, p3, k3, p3, k9, b5.
Row 48: b5, p9, k9, p9, b5.
Row 49: b5, k9, p9, k9, b5.
Row 50: b5, p10, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p10, b5.
Row 51: b5, k10, p7, k10, b5.
Row 52: b5, p11, k5, p11, b5.
Row 53: b5, k27, b5.
Row 54: b5, p27, b5.
Row 55: b5, k27, b5.
Row 56: b5, p27, b5.
Row 57: b5, k27, b5.
Row 58: b5, p27, b5.
Row 59: b5, k8, p1, k1 across next 11 sts., k8, b5.
Row 60: b5, p7, k1, p1 across next 13 sts., p7, b5.
Row 61: b5, p1, k5, p1, k1 across next 15 sts., k5, p1, b5.
Row 62: b5, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1 across next 17 sts., p3, k1, p1, b5.
Row 63: k1, p1 across row.
Row 64: k1, p1 across row.
Row 65: k1, p1 across next 13 sts., bind off next 11 sts, p1, k1 to end.

Shoulder Shaping

Row 66: Working on these 13 sts, k1, p1 across row.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)

Work one row even.

Next row, dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.

Work one row even.

Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and shoulder edge. 3 sts.

Work one row even.

Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.

Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side. Try to join the yarn so it is invisible, then the bib can be reversible!

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Dinosaur Bib

My little grandsons, ages four and two, are really into dinosaurs lately, so I thought it would be fun to make a bib for their new little brother. When I finished knitting this, I showed it to my two year old grandson, Micah, and said "Look a brontosaurus!" to which he replied "No Grandma, a brachiosaurus!" Who knew? Apparently not me!




Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Note: The edges of the bib are worked in seed stitch over the first and last five stitches (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) and are referred to as “B5”. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
B5 = seed stitch border

Cast on 12 sts.

Row 1: k1, p1, across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., p1, k1, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., p1, k1, across row (38 sts.)

Row 12: k1, p1, for 13 sts.; p 12 sts.; p1, k1, for 13 sts.
Row 13: p1, k1, for 12 sts.; k 14 sts.; p1, k1 for 12 sts.
Row 14: k1, p1, for 11 sts.; p 16 sts.; p1, k1, for 11 sts.
Row 15: p1, k1, for 10 sts.; k 18 sts.; p1, k1 for 10 sts.
Row 16: k1, p1, for 9 sts.; p11; k6; p3; p1, k1, for 9 sts.
Row 17: p1, k1, for 8 sts.; k3; p7; k12; p1, k1, for 8 sts.
Row 18: k1, p1, for 7 sts.; p14; k7; p3; p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 19: p1, k1, for 6 sts.; k3; p6; k17; p1, k1, for 6 sts.
Row 20: k1, p1, for 5 sts.; p22; k3; p3; p1, k1, for 5 sts.

(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch border. (B5) It might be helpful to place a marker for these stitches.)

Row 21: B5; k3; p3; k22; B5.
Row 22: B5; p22; k3; p3; B5.
Row 23: B5; k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p4; k11; B5.
Row 24: B5; p11; k4; p2; k4; p1; k3; p3; B5.
Row 25: B5; k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p4; k11; B5.
Row 26: B5; p5; k5; p2; k3; p3; k3; p1; k3; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k3; p3; k1; p3; k3; p3; k2; p5; k5; B5.
Row 28: B5; p5; k5; p2; k3; p3; k7; p3; B5.
Row 29: B5; k3; p8; k2; p3; k1; p4; k7; B5.
Row 30: B5; p8; k3; p1; k13; p3; B5.
Row 31: B5; k3; p17; k8; B5.
Row 32: B5; p9; k16; p3; B5.
Row 33: B5; k4; p15; k9; B5.
Row 34: B5; p10; k14; p4; B5.
Row 35: B5; k5; p13; k10; B5.
Row 36: B5; p10; k13; p5; B5.
Row 37: B5; k6; p12; k10; B5.
Row 38: B5; p10; k11; p7; B5.
Row 39: B5; k7; p11; k10; B5.
Row 40: B5; p10; k10; p8; B5.
Row 41: B5; k9; p9; k10; B5.
Row 42: B5; p10; k8; p10; B5.
Row 43: B5; k11; p7; k10; B5.
Row 44: B5; p10; k6; p12; B5.
Row 45: B5; k12; p6; k3; p3; k4; B5.
Row 46: B5; p3; k5; p2; k5; p13; B5.
Row 47: B5; k13; p12; k3; B5.
Row 48: B5; p3; k12; p13; B5.
Row 49: B5; k14; p11; k3; B5.
Row 50: B5; p4, k3, p1; k6; p14; B5.
Row 51: B5; k15; p8, k5; B5.
Row 52: B5; p6; k6; p16; B5.
Row 53: B5; k17; p3; k8; B5.
Row 54: B5; p28; B5.
Row 55: B5; k28; B5.
Row 56: B5; p28; B5.
Row 57: B5; k28; B5.
Row 58: B5; p28; B5.
Row 59: (right side) B5; k 8; k1, p1 for 12 sts.; k8; B5.
Row 60: B5; p 7 sts.; k1, p1 for 14 sts.; p7 sts.; B5.
Row 61: k1, p1, for 6 sts.; k 5 sts.; k1, p1 for 16 sts.; k 5 sts; p1, k1, for 6 sts.
Row 62: k1, p1, for 7 sts.; p 3 sts.; k1, p1, for 18 sts.; p 3 sts.; p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 63: p1, k1, for 8 sts.; k1; k1, p1, for 20 sts.; k1, p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 64: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder shaping:

Row 65: p1, k1, for 13 sts.; bind off next 12 sts. knitwise; work remaining 12 sts. in seed stitch as established. You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Work one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Work one row even.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.

Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side. If you are careful and join the yarn invisibly, then the bib can be reversible!

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Note:  This pattern has been updated and now includes a chart.  The pdf file is in the sidebar.  

Teddy Bear Bib

This is the first bib that I did with a picture design. There are so many cute patterns for dishcloths, but I just decided that I wanted to do my own and teddy bears and babies just seem to go together.

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Note: The edges of the bib are worked in seed stitch over the first and last five stitches (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) and are referred to as “B5”. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle
B5 = seed stitch border

Cast on 12 sts.

Row 1: k1, p1, across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., p1, k1, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., p1, k1, across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: k1, p1, for 13 sts.; p 12 sts.; p1, k1, for 13 sts.
Row 13: p1, k1, for 12 sts.; k 14 sts.; p1, k1 for 12 sts.
Row 14: k1, p1, for 11 sts.; p 16 sts.; p1, k1, for 11 sts.
Row 15: p1, k1, for 10 sts.; k 18 sts.; p1, k1 for 10 sts.
Row 16: k1, p1, for 9 sts.; p20; p1, k1, for 9 sts.
Row 17: p1, k1, for 8 sts.; k22; p1, k1, for 8 sts.
Row 18: k1, p1, for 7 sts.; p24; p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 19: p1, k1, for 6 sts.; k26; p1, k1, for 6 sts.
Row 20: k1, p1, for 5 sts.; p28; p1, k1, for 5 sts.

(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch border. (B5) It might be helpful to place a marker for these stitches.)

Row 21: B5; k28; B5.
Row 22: B5; p28; B5.
Row 23: B5; k28; B5.
Row 24: B5; p5; k3; p12; k3; p5; B5.
Row 25: B5; k4; p5; k10; p5; k4; B5.
Row 26: B5; p3; k7; p8; k7; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k3; p8; k6; p8; k3; B5.
Row 28: B5; p3; k22; p3; B5.
Row 29: B5; k4; p20; k4; B5.
Row 30: B5; p7; k14; p7; B5.
Row 31: B5; k8; p12; k8; B5.
Row 32: B5; p9; k10; p9; B5.
Row 33: B5; k10, p8; k10; B5.
Row 34: B5; p10; k8; p10; B5.
Row 35: B5; k10, p8; k10; B5.
Row 36: B5; p10; k8; p10; B5.
Row 37: B5; k9; p10; k9; B5.
Row 38: B5; p5; k18; p5; B5.
Row 39: B5; k4; p20; k4; B5.
Row 40: B5; p4; k20; p4; B5.
Row 41: B5; k4; p5; k2; p6; k2; p5; k4; B5.
Row 42: B5; p5; k3; p3; k6; p3; k3; p5; B5.
Row 43: B5; k10; p8; k10; B5.
Row 44: B5; p9; k10; p9; B5.
Row 45: B5; k9; p10; k9; B5.
Row 46: B5; p9; k10; p9; B5.
Row 47: B5; k7; p14; k7; B5.
Row 48: B5; p6; k16; p6; B5.
Row 49: B5; k6; p4; k1; p6; k1; p4; k6; B5.
Row 50: B5; p7; k2; p3; k4; p3; k2; p7; B5.
Row 51: B5; k28; B5.
Row 52: B5; p28; B5.
Row 53: B5; k28; B5.
Row 54: B5; p28; B5.
Row 55: B5; k28; B5.
Row 56: B5; p28; B5.
Row 57: B5; k28; B5.
Row 58: B5; p28; B5.
Row 59: (right side) B5; k 8; k1, p1 for 12 sts.; k8; B5.
Row 60: B5; p 7 sts.; k1, p1 for 14 sts.; p7 sts.; B5.
Row 61: k1, p1, for 6 sts.; k 5 sts.; k1, p1 for 16 sts.; k 5 sts; p1, k1, for 6 sts.
Row 62: k1, p1, for 7 sts.; p 3 sts.; k1, p1, for 18 sts.; p 3 sts.; p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 63: p1, k1, for 8 sts.; k1; k1, p1, for 20 sts.; k1, p1, k1 for 8 sts.
Row 64: k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder shaping:

Row 65: p1, k1, for 13 sts.; bind off next 12 sts. knitwise; work remaining 12 sts. in seed stitch as established. You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. as follows:

(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Work one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Work one row even.
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side. If you are careful and join the yarn invisibly, then the bib can be reversible!

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Simple Garter Stitch Baby Bib

Here is the very first bib pattern that I created. It’s just a simple garter stitch bib that looks really good in variegated yarns. I had tons of dishcloth cotton and wanted to do something other than dishcloths. When I found out that I was going to be a Grandma again, inspiration struck and so this bib was born. Dishcloth cotton is great for mealtime, but if you want a bib to help with the drooling at teething time, I recommend that you use a superwash wool. The wool will help to wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry. The last thing a baby needs is a soggy wet mass of cotton lying on his/her chest!

Yarn: Any worsted weight cotton like Peaches & Crème or Sugar and Cream. 1 ball.
Suggested Needles: US Size 6.
Gauge: 4.5 stitches to the inch, although gauge isn’t critical.

Cast on 15 stitches.
Knit 1 row.
At beginning of each of the next 6 rows, cast on 3 stitches and knit across row. (33 sts.).
At beginning of each of the next 2 rows, cast on 2 stitches and knit across row. (37 sts.) Knit even for approximately 7 inches.
Knit across 13 stitches; bind off next 11 stitches, knit to end.
Knit one row.
At neck edge, decrease 1 stitch every other row 2 times. (11 sts.). End on wrong side row.
Work even for 6 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at shoulder edge every other row until 5 stitches remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at beginning and end of row. (3 sts.)
Knit an I-cord on remaining 3 stitches for approximately 12 inches.
Join yarn at neck edge and work to correspond to other side. If you’re careful joining the yarn, and weave the end invisibly, the bib can be reversible. It won’t really matter as strained peas will cover a multitude of errors!

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Okay, I'll do a blog!

Okay, okay, I’ll do a blog!! I’ve been resisting creating a blog for sometime now. I couldn’t see any reason to start one, then I met this terrific lady on Ravelry (Hi Kathy!) who just kind of gave me that little bit of confidence I needed. She convinced me that this was a good way to keep a record of my knitting. (Of course, there have been some things lately that I wouldn’t want to keep track of. In fact, I’d like to forget them entirely.) I have come up with some baby bibs that seem to be popular, so this will be a good way to share them with other knitters. After all the great patterns I’ve downloaded, this is such a small way to give back, and, heck, who doesn’t love a free pattern?